Milan Uomo: Frankie Morello

Cities |  Milan | 

“Make art, not war”. Couldn’t have said it better myself, Mr. Frankie Morello. This was the theme for the SS15 collection, with models sporting appliquéd pictures of Italian artistic statues on shirts and jackets. The designs were definitely creative, featuring 3-D plexiglass sewn onto blazers for a cubism effect (Picasso, anyone?).

A few shots from backstage:

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And of course, the official “slogan” of the show: Make Art, Not War.

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The graffiti prints and the grey juxtaposed with bright tones such as orange and blue made for a real “pop” of vibrance. Boxy and straight silhouettes seem to be trending for SS15 and Frankie Morello was not far behind in this aspect. The designs were distinctly modern, and many garments even sported the message on many a shirt or jacket “Make art, not war”. According to the designers, “art is important for fighing intellectual  apathy”. And that it is. Anyone who says fashion is not art…is wrong!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Tillmann Lauterbach

Cities |  Milan | 

The Tillmann Lauderbach show was inspired by a Joel Shapiro exhibition in New York City. The exhibit showcased cubed sculptures created from wood. Tillmann loved the randomness of the pieces and was inspired to design his collection in a similar, unexpected way.

Summer sweaters, long spring coats, trenches, and short pants were ever present within the collection. Boxy silhouettes also ruled the designs.The sunglasses were collaboration with Rigards Eyewear, and the glasses were sculpted out of buffalo horn. The leftover horn was also used to create jewelry and accessories for the collection. These clothes are for an edgier man, one who prefers to dress in a simple yet modern style.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Ermanno Scervino

Cities |  Milan | 

Ermanno Scervino is always one of my favorite runway shoes to attend, and this season did not disappoint. Polka dots were a reoccurring theme, however I never felt it was overdone or overly feminine.

Our lovely photographer, Paloma, was given a backstage pass for the show, and she was able to capture some great behind-the-scenes photos for BDMOTP before the show began.

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Scervino showcased in my mind, one of the garments he truly does best: coats.Trenches, blazers and other light summer coats ruled the runway, and I loved each and every one of them. Several boasted linings of bright colors, like orange or green, giving a more basic look a bit of summer brightness. Houndstooth and herringbone patterns also made an appearance which was fun, because typically we only see that style in fall or winter looks, but it definitely worked. The collection was excellent down to every details, shoes included.

At the end of the show, all the models walk out together as a group, showing the cohesiveness of the collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Dirk Bikkembergs Sport Couture

Cities |  Milan | 

The Dirk Bikkembergs Menswear Summer 2015 Sport Couture collection was inspired by the triathlon: swimming, cycling and running. The looks were clearly sporty, with figure hugging shapes and several fabrics like spandex or neoprene, which lend themselves to sport as well. Some items more formal, such as suits or street wear still carry the casual and athletic aspect of the looks. Other trends appearing were distressed leather jackets and sophisticated dark denim looks. Of course, items more directly encasing the sport vibe, such as swimsuits, windbreakers and rain coats also walked the runway.

Enhancing the sporty theme, the runway was lined with men in white body suits, ready to run, swim and bike. You have to admire Dirk Bikkembergs for creating a theme and really sticking with it.

BDMOTP favorite: evergreen windbreaker, leather jackets

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Messagerie

Cities |  Milan | 

Fashion week is always hectic and rushed, as you run from venue to venue, hoping to make it in time for the shows (which usually start late). Often times, I dejectedly realize there is just no way I can make it to everything, and you have to pick and choose, especially when two great shows happen at the same time. Although Messagerie coincided with another show we wanted to see, in the end we felt Messagerie would be best to feature, and we certainly chose well.

The Messagerie Men’s Spring/Summer 2015 line was inspired by Casanova (how very “Italian” of the brand), and had a modern take on luxurious, beautiful clothes. I love the prints and patterns, and the use of linen within the collection. The show was in a beautiful square courtyard of an Italian palace, which entirely captivated the “Casanova” vibe.  The blazers within the collection were original, light and airy. Although it seemed very Italian, the designs could easily be worked into itineraries like a dinner date in Tokyo or a weekend in the Hamptons. I appreciate collections that have a strong point of view but are also wearable in many situations, and that was Messagerie entirely. I can’t wait to see what they come up with for Fall and Winter!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Bertoni

Cities |  Milan | 

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Bertoni is a family company that dates back to 1949. The newly launched elegant line of luggage and bags is luxurious and beautiful. From vintage-esque trunks and travel wardrobes to more modern items like iPad cases and functional leather briefcases, the line is beautifully crafted. Between the more basic black and brown, there are pops of bright orange, army green and blue, creating a perfect, wearable spring line.

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These items are created for a successful and confident man, a traveler, someone who jets from A to B and needs high end, durable travel items. The trunks are obviously not practical, but gorgeous just the same, and are made-to-measure pieces that would look incredible in a library or office.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Caruso

Cities |  Milan | 

I’ve always loved the Caruso tagline, “In menswear, do as the Italians do”. (In fact, being Italian American myself, I think the saying should simply read, “Do As the Italians Do”-but of course I am clearly biased). However, no one can deny that when it comes to fashion and style, the Italians, indeed do it well. Caruso is clearly no exception. Their luxury menswear has been a staple to Italians for many  years, and will soon be accessible to New York, as they are opening a flagship in New Year in early 2015.

The focus of their collections is the suit. The most elegant of all pieces, they have many different takes on the suit, also creating items to supplement it like accessories, shirts, hats, belts, and sportswear. The SS15 inspiration was the man himself, strong, sometimes rough, and filled with light. Blues and beiges dominate the line, and soft, loose shapes give a relaxed and manly feel.

BDMOTP favorite: the shirt with the Anchor print, and every. single. suit.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Antonio Marras

Cities |  Milan | 

The SS15 line from Antonio Marras may just take the cake for my favorite collection here at Milan Uomo this season (okay, I still have about 12 more events and collections to see…but so far).

The Marras line, dedicated to GiGi Riva, famous soccer player (a “hero” deemed by Marras), had a distinct soccer vibe. Imagine Savile Row, with a little sporty edge, and you have the SS15 Marras line.

Aptly located in a outdoor park, models walked to a joyful street band, CLANG, which played percussion atop metal garbage cans. Guests sipped on beer and chips as they watched the designs pass by.

I adored the patterns that accompanied the suits and sportswear looks. The shorts suit, one of my favorite menswear trends, made several appearances, as did colorblocking and geometric prints.

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The end of the show included models walking out in soccer jerseys, while a team of trickster soccer youths acrobatically jumped and tossed soccer balls around. After the final carousel, the models even joined the soccer team and kicked the ball around, as did the designer himself.

BDMOTP favorite: Literally, everything.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Alberto Moretti

Cities |  Milan | 

The Alberto Moretti SS15 collection was bright, bold and colorful, everything a perfect spring/summer collection should be. The first group of shoes that caught my eye and ended up being my favorite of the line were the Papillon shoe, a cocktail slipper made of suede with a leather sole topped with a silk bow tie. This is a sort of throwback of the iconic Velvet shoe, one of their most successful shoes to date.

I really enjoyed the brightness of the collection. So many designers fear color, even in a spring or summer collection, and it was extremely refreshing to see something vibrant and exciting for SS15.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Vivienne Westwood

Cities |  London |  Milan | 

Vivienne Westwood is a wonderful person and designer. I always love seeing her shows because not only do I adore her designs but I love how she fiercely fights for what she believes in. People that feel strongly about a cause do not often have a platform in order to have access to a lot of people, but Ms. Westwood is able to express her concerns about the world and share her views through her designs and runway, and I appreciate the way in which she does so.

This season, her collection was inspired  by the fight to end cruelty to pigs and the inefficiency and pollution caused by factory farming. The designs are eclectic and modern, colorful and fun. Some of the models sport tee-shirts supporting the cause saying “Moral Outrage”, and some even wear top hats and an ironic pig nose. Our favorites are always the innovative suits, this season with extra big squared prints, a-la-window pane-esque. Westwood’s patterns are always exciting and fresh. I think the designs speak for the themselves really, and if you want to support the cause and/or sign a petition boycotting meat from animal factories, please visit Pig Pledge.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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