MFShow Men: Mirto

Cities |  Madrid | 

Mirto is always a crowd favorite. This season the collection was split into various parts: summer relaxed (aka weekend wear), summer office and homewear (aka pajamas or lounge wear).

The summer relaxed section offered bold and casual looks like shorts and tees, mixing plaid, stripes and florals in many of the looks. Most of the fabrics were soft and light, usually cotton and linen.

The summer office wear obviously more formal, and giving the typical suit look a bit of a summer edge by using bright colors and again mixing and adding pattern.

The home collection was luxurious and comfy, using silk and cotton fabrics, perfect for sleeping or hanging out at home.

The nice point to this collection was that in encased many different styles. The Mirto gentleman could buy his pajamas, tie, and summer boating pants all in one easy stop. Men like simplicity, and Mirto is giving it to them.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

 

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MFShow Men: Altona Dock

Cities |  Madrid | 

Altona Dock got its start from a dreamer who traveled from Spain to Australia and was inspired by the sights he saw there. He took his vacation and turned it into a brand, ‘Altona Dock’ and you can feel the traveler bohemian spirit within the brand.

That isn’t to say the designs don’t have an understated elegance to them, of course, despite the bold and bright colorful surfer vibe. Several matching blazers and pants appeared in Crayola colors like bright red, blue, green and yellow. All models proudly sported the summery garments with flowery leis around their necks.

Belts were made of rope, eluding to the beachy, boaty culture of Australia’s coral reef coast. Let’s not forget the plaids and floral patterns too…perhaps Altona Dock was also inspired by a Hawaiian beach holiday too?

Each model, in addition to his lei, also wore a bright beach bandana around their heads. This line would be perfect for a bold man with a bold personality, hoping to shine through his casual and summery outfits.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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MFShow Men: Tenkey

Cities |  Madrid | 

The SS15 Tenkey collection is marked with the phrase “New Traditional”. It seems that Tenkey has fallen ‘victim’ to the temptation of summer…that need to wear shorts, t-shirts, summer shoes, even tank tops. Don’t we all fall suspect to this every year when June rolls around? I know in the midst of a long hard winter, I dream of those light summer days where I can lose the heavy wear and sport something a little lighter.

Enter “New Traditional” from Tenkey. A classic look adapted to let in that summer temptation of wearing casual and lighter clothes. A dark black suit! Never! Your “New Traditional” look would include some cuffed yet tailored shorts, a crisp white shirt and a straw hat. Let’s ring in the summer boys!

The collection take inspiration from the movie The Talented Mr. Riley, where Dickie (Jude Law) wears almost excessive amounts of linen, light polos, brightly colored shorts, straw hats and even espadrilles.  A very Mediterranean look, easy to emulate here in Spain as Madrid is just a few hours drive from the Mediterranean cost.

The small neck scarves, hats, straw belts and espadrille shoes are all touches added on, giving life to many looks featuring cuffed colored shorts and tops. Men who wear Tenkey are also not afraid to wear pink, as many of the models sported pink shorts. Let’s not forget the light summer jackets in several silhouettes, a bomber look, a more refined trench and a funky zip up.

Tenkey is an ode to summer, and proves that you can still dress eloquently even though the weather has turned hot. Lightening up doesn’t mean giving up looking dapper!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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MFSHOW Men: Jockey

Cities |  Madrid | 

The Jockey brand, created back in 1876, has been making undergarments for both men and women for a very long time. A sort of “innovator” of the underwear world, Jockey is created with creating the first slip, the first boxer short and being the first brand to print their brand name in the waistband of their underwear.

Jockey, a brand full of “firsts” is credited as being a staple to the “all American” man or woman. The brand represents comfort and style, without going overboard. These days, Jockey can be found in 142 countries around the world, such as Spain, for example.

The SS15 Jockey collection for men is split into two collections: the African jungle and the US Originals. The difference between the two collections is clear from the title. Everyone who wears Jockey is looking to be that “All American” man or woman, and the US Originals collection really gives out that vibe of solid comfort.

For a man who wants to walk on the wild side, the African Jungle collection may be more your style. Models “danced” and “flipped” down the runway, showing how the Jockey undergarments stay put, providing support and comfort, for even the most active of men. And not just undergarments: the collection includes undershirts, activewear, pajamas, swim trunks, even wet suits in addition to the typical boxers and briefs.

Both of the lines are sold exclusively at El Corte Ingles in Spain.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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MFSHOW Men: Soloio

Cities |  Madrid | 

Soloio, an Italian brand, is actually quite well known in Spain for being a shop that sells ties. But really, the brand offers so much more in the world of masculine fashion that just fancy neckwear. However, they did live up to their expectation of providing effective accessories, as they outfitted their models in not just clothes, but with ski hats, suspenders, bowties, scarves, beach towels, bags, and of course their famous ties.

The clothes, although paired with ski hats, were patterned and bright, offering several vibrant, summer looks for a gentleman looking to stand out. Decorative polka dots, stripes, flowers, plants, and even fish covered the shots, shirts and bags. The collection offers colors in a rainbow-variety of colors, with looks ranging from yellows to pinks to blues, mixing patterns and pushing the limits.

Soloio explains their collection as “mysterious and impactful” and where I am not sure there is any mystery to it,  I definitely find it to be impactful and bold. Soloio has definitely left it’s mark at MF Show Men. Any men out there who are truly ready for a intensive soulful summer should pick up garments from the Soloio SS15 collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Amsterdam Fashion Week: EVAN Menswear

Amsterdam |  Cities | 

One of the particularities of Evan Menswear is that apparently also women love to wear it, and perhaps it is true that today more and more collections offer androgynous design and concepts. However,with EVAN it is probably the beautiful fabrics and materials and the stylish looks which also attract the fairer sex. Hey, who wouldn’t want to wear a Jesus Christ printed perforated T-shirt/Sweater, the great man himself appearing under perforations shimmering in the back ground – we are talking about some seriously cool items here. This Christ image was a recurring theme in the interesting collection with as a slogan ‘Jesus saves the youth’ and when we may believe the show write-up this statement is meant to be controversial by design so as to indicate a form of youthful rebelliousness.  It didn’t come across as such fortunately to BDMOTP as the images and the design were quite beautiful actually. Because beauty always speaks louder than words meant to provoke – thank god.

This latter old fashion wisdom was also evident elsehwere in the collection in that it struck nicely the perfect tone of which is an ancient principle in fashion design:  the use of no more than three colors in one collection, so as to create the ambiance of continuity and signature in the line. In this case, the colors are ochre, burgundy, and of course what is otherwise also called the fourth spectrum – anything between black and white. The use of the three colors will give the sign of exclusivity to any specific collection, and I am sure that Dutch designer Evana Kuik (24) had picked up on this old rule at the well-known Willem de Kooning fashion academy in Rotterdam (this is shockingly only her second collection shown at fashion week, the first being last February).

The Evan logo itself was used as a much enlarged print across the collection with the logo face appearing large in different and unexpected parts on sleeves, backs, and everywhere else but bottoms, and in the same looming size as the face of the Christ – another provocation.  Is it true that youth always likes to provoke the values of previous generations?  BDMOTP leaves that as a rhetorical question for the reader, but in any case this collection had some serious beauty and style to it.  We loved the black print on a white Forever Young T-shirt for instance, an instant classic – where can I buy this, it is summer, and it is perfect for the club or the lounge.

The ambiance of the runway show was much enhanced because of a wild interplay of the presence of a real-live Amsterdam VJ mixing the works with the classical sounds of two classical musicians also present and dressed in Bowler costume: one cellist and one violinist. The three together managed to put on quite a musical performance, which was somewhere on the wide spectrum between jazz, classic, and grunge, well, a combination of those things but definitely much adding to the meaning of what was being showed on the runway. Evana Kuik’s vision statement that fashion is much more than just clothes and that it tells a story had definitely something to do with it.

Young, sporty, androgynous, controversial, beautiful, and stylish are the epithets that BDMOTP would like to leave you with for this very special collection.

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Amsterdam Fashion Week: Tony Cohen

Amsterdam |  Cities | 

The Tony Cohencollections are very famous for women–this Dutch designer shows in New York in line with Marc Jacobs. This is a day to be noted in history– the very first show to include a collection for men.

Tony Cohen’s signature is to work with luxurious materials and despite the fact that refined fabrics were clearly on display and that also the men’s collections were gifted with beautiful materials and designs, the contrast was that the women’s collections were much brighter and also more colorful than the men’s.

Perhaps that this has something to do with the idea behind the Tony Cohen men’s collection that the type of man for whom these garments are made is the contemporary nomad, the man who is never fully in control, a man who is on the move, a man trying to make it moving from place to place from job to job… something most of us men can easily relate to.

Yet with his background in high-end women’s garments, the Amsterdam Fashion Week Day 4 Tony Cohen Man Preview Capsule Collection sends a peculiar message also to men: that men can wear high-end refined materials and fabrics; men can aspire to elegance; men can wear double-stitches, or double faced coats, or hemlines worked well from the inside out; and that soft handwoven fabrics are not a man’s shame but rather his prerogative as a nomad going through life. For a man without sensibility, he will most surely lose his winning touch….

There is an indeed an understated luxury in this new clothing line yet to be discovered.

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Amsterdam Fashion Week: Jonathan Christopher

Amsterdam |  Cities | 

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Dark, foreboding and seriously brooding…the Jonathan Christopher Homme runway show was one of the best BDMOTP has seen all week. The models seemed extra fierce, while dark metal music and decoration ambiance was carrying things further and further down the well-trodden Amsterdam path of neo-goth collections, with the strange twist that hidden in a host of black perforated leather and other materials to which color has no use, there was this streak of bright orange in suspenders, wrist bands, belts, cords, and other strap lock wear so as in order to demonstrate and literally highlight that, as the announcement read, that men are getting BOUND by every step they take, even when moving through the ‘swamp of life’.

After all this is Europe’s industrial north-west corner and on the premises this week all shows have been held in either a giant ancient gas tank from 1902 or in it’s equally decorative machine engine room from times of yore. The show seemed to cleverly tap into these darker moments and darker times and the models seemed to relish the opportunity to show the collection while listening to dark metal, smelling burned wood, walking through mist and vapor rising to a sky filled and dislocated with birds, dark birds, crows maybe, moving about like the wicked creatures found in Alfred Hitchcock’s perhaps most famous movie under the same title name: The birds.

Thus, the models, scarred, bound and strapped in orange and dressed in perforated leather, walked through the misty & musky swamp while hovered over by dark birds. Birds – for who needs drones if you can get dark birds to cast a certain gloom. Tim Burton could have proudly served up this deliciously dark dish as a new movie set and when you then know that indeed Jonathan Christopher has been doing work for Karl Lagerfeld – another master to whom gothic imagery is no stranger – you come to realize that you have just witnessed a very special show for one very good collection.

Woe to the man who is not strapped and bound in bright orange while walking in perforated leather through the swamp of life!  For not every man is a rocker. And not every man is a biker. Yet some men they walk with the birds. And strapped in orange, their beautiful garments will set them free.

And while we noticed one small white bird floating among the host of brooding dark ones, this probably sums up best the Jonathan Christopher Homme Spring/Summer 2015 collection, “NEXUM”.

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Amsterdam Fashion Week: Bareezé Man

Amsterdam |  Cities | 

Vibrant Pakistan, they say. An spectacle full of bright colors, traditional materials, joyful music and of course, style.

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We are right in the heart of Amsterdam’s Fashion Week and while most of the city is hoping to see their team wining the third position in the World Cup, expectation arouses a full house. And there it is, after one show and a wonderful dancing performance, the unexpected, not in the form of spectacle but in the form of an impeccable, sharp and neat style, invaded the catwalk.

With an unique “savoir-faire” and passion for the detail, Bareezé Man, a brand that was born out of experimentation with embroidered fabric, presents us a collection for the man that travels, but only for those capable to do it with style, sophistication and a twist of panache. It’s for men who care about details but only if it comes with a purpose, for modern men that fulfill the requirements of a gentleman.

Innovation meets tradition in a collection inspired by “old world means of transport”, combining the classic elegance of a white jacket with blue Vespa helmets and burgundy leather bags. Planes, motorcycles, cars…all come together in one fitting phrase: performance meets style.

Camouflage prints in silk shirts, jackets and trousers are the main characters of this “transport parade”, followed by electric blue leather vests and beige suede coats. A definitely must for those who love to travel without compromising their elegance.

So prepare your most fancy suitcases, grab your motorcycle helmet and join the new generation of “travelers-in-style”.

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Post and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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MFSHOW Men: Emidio Tucci

Cities |  Madrid | 

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MFShow Men is a relatively new fashion week in Madrid put on by large department store El Corte Ingles, dedicated to fashion for men. It’s great news that Madrid is following the likes of London, Paris and Milan and creating an environment exclusive to style and trends for men.

This season’s MFShow Men kicked off with a runway show by designer Emidio Tucci, which is sold exclusively at El Corte Ingles. The Tucci style is sartorial and preppy, reminiscent of Savile Row and British style, dapper at every turn but with new urban details to maintain it’s freshness, and don’t forget a touch of Italian sleekness.

This season, the SS15 catwalk was jungle themed, complete with a rainforest centerpiece and even tropical parrots squawking away. Suits were the name of the game, and not only did they appear in many a color, but also some patterned looks, staying true to the jungle theme appeared in the line. Pops of color rang out in the name of orange, army green and various shades of blue.

It was interesting to see that many of the models walked barefoot, making their suits seemingly less intimating, as if they were able to walk out of the runway show onto a boat or a grass filled pasture of sorts. This touch added a feeling of relaxed summer to the line. A touch of spring plaid was preppy yet trendy.

Emidio Tucci is style for a chic man, one who wants to look polished, yet approachable.

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Post and images by Lori Zaino.

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