Milan Uomo: Santoni

Cities |  Milan | 

The Santoni collection for SS15 was unique and original. They experimented with patterns, ending up with original materials and silhouettes, such as basket woven shoes. A big trend right now is cutouts within clothing for both women and men, and Santoni interpreted this by adding small cutout shapes into the footwear, which is both cool in a temperature sense for hot summery days, and trendy as well. They attempted to create what they call “Contemporary County” and definitely succeeded: country and urban sytes combined into super shoes.

One of the BDMOTP favorites was the patchwork tan and black squared shoes mixed with the micro-basket effect. I can honestly say I have never seen a shoe like it! Very dapper.

The shoes were elegant and the collection was quite large, encasing a broad spectrum of different footwear varieties for any style a man would ever need. They even had a few beautiful leather bags that would look great on the arm of a handsome fellow.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Fratelli Rossetti

Cities |  Milan | 

The new shoe trend is all about mixing sporty with elegance for SS15. Fratelli Rossetti is offering two lines are: Brera Sport and Hobo Sport, and focus on combining classic looks like their signature tassels, with a hip hop, casual vibe.

The rubber soles, which are a new edition, embrace the modern and trendy current “sneaker style” fashion. The Hobo shoes are the lace up shoes, but without laces, which were inspired by a nomand traveler, versatile and comfortable for those on the go. Both lines come in a huge variety of distinct colors, which allows the customer to choose a shoe that fits their mood and personality.

“Fratelli” means brothers in Italian and this business is a family one, ensuring the quality and focus of the brand.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Philipp Plein

Cities |  Milan | 

Philipp Plein always goes above and beyond to make sure his runway shows truly embody the inspiration of the coming collections. Upon arrival in Milan I checked out the invitation, which had a picture of a shark and the phrase “Bite Me” on it. I knew this was going to be good!

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The venue was a large swimming pool (which, having lived in cities like New York and Madrid, I fully understand that finding a pool that large in a big city is no easy feat), decorated with sharks and the Philipp Plein logo. Everyone was excited to see what was to come.

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The show began with syncronized swimmers performing, followed by rapper Theophilus London, who rapped while a jet ski drove him around the pool, and a big finish of acrobatic jet ski performers. Oh, and a fashion show with beautiful men sporting clothes too.

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Let me just say, the theatrics of the event in no way shape or form took away from or overtook the clothing. They seemed to simply enhance it. Philipp himself explains that “water represents energy and power, this is why the man I imagined favors marine details and prints. He is a modern captain, a water world captain.” Was the event amazing? Yes, it was, but the clothes are what really drove it along.

The collection was large and featured a number of different styles and options. The blazers were fantastic, especially the detailing on them. There was a denim blazer, a red blazer and a black one with sequins that stood out to me. Bomber jackets were also cool and edgy. Ripped white jeans added a little grunge to the otherwise flashy and studded clothing. Plein also added a bit of whim with printing the embelm, for the collection, the shark on some of the garments.

After the show, the after party was epic, and completely fufilled my high expections. Philipp Plein never holds back, and that is reflected in his fun and glamorous designs.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

 

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Milan Uomo: John Varvatos

Cities |  Milan | 

The John Varvatos SS15 collection was inspired by a night out at the opera, but rather, a “day” out at the opera. The idea was to take the refined elegance you might see during an evening out on the town, and translate that into a casual, yet still elegant daytime collection.

Light, linen jackets were layered over soft tees and vests. Earthy colors like brown and army green, along with white, black and grey dominated the collection. Asymmetric, breathable tuxedo jackets made for a casual-meets-classic vibe. The looks were slim enough to be trendy but also comfortable and movable. Detailing like buttons,fringe and zippers set the designs apart, giving off that rock’n’ roll attitude that Mr. Varvatos is oh-so-well-known for. There were even “corsages”, a la Sex-and-the-City style reminiscent of Carrie’s big flower, but toned down to be appropriate not only for men, but for a little edge to a casual daytime outfit.

BDMOTP favorite: every single jacket

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Chester Barrie

Cities |  London | 

I normally associate Chester Barrie with formal wear, but excellent news: they are expanding into resort and cruisewear as well for SS15. The upstairs, more casual resortwear designs were colorful and preppy. I got a great vibe from the new collection, in fact, it made me want to sip a mojito on a yacht, or watch young men play croquet while eating garden sandwiches in Boston. Plaids, paisleys, florals and stripes adorned on summery fabrics like linen gave the line a beachy vibe. Cuffed pants and preppy boat shoes completed the looks.

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Once I headed downstairs, I got some of the more formal suiting options, dapper as per usual. Chester Barrie is capable of making any man look eloquent and perfect for any occasion.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Xander Zhou

Cities |  London | 

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The SS15 Xander Xhou collection is called “Hyperdrive” and its inspiration stems from gender and sexuality. This is the second designer we’ve seen here in London that has used elements reminiscent of a teenage, adolescent existence. Again, this brings us back to the 1990’s era, where teens ruled the world.

Xander Xhou is hthe first designer based in China to be given the license to use original Star Wars imagery within his designs. Now, the black-and-white futuristic space-like designs make more sense. He also uses denim, again bringing us back to those teenage years.

The coats in the collection were phenomenal, which I don’t often get to say in a spring collection, but they are long and trendy with square collars and modern imagery. The boxy shapes and cool colors resonate with everyday people. Some of the coats even had air blowers, which added a cool futuristic touch.

BDMOTP favorite: evergreen coat

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Sankuanz GQ China

Cities |  London |  Shanghai | 

When I got the invitation for the Sankuanz runway show, sponsored by GQ China, I knew I was in for a treat! How could a show with that invitation not be fun?

The invitation for the Sankuanz show.

The invitation for the Sankuanz show.

The show was fun and crazy, with white oufits with all sorts of writing on them in various languages. AThe prints were inspired by Russian prison tattoos from the 1940’s, and the looks are sporty and casual. The second half of the show, models walked with giant hand-pieces. Although the clothes might seem a bit extreme, having been to Asia, this type of stuff, especially paired with more basic pieces, is quite popular there, and could easily be trending in your city soon!

GQ China, having launched in 2009, plans to be part of London Collections: Men in future years, bringing new Asian designers to the British market.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Jermyn St St James

Cities | 

“The London taxicab was actually designed to accommodate a man sitting in the back wearing his bowler hat”–Nicolas Payne-Badder, hat connoisseur.

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This season, the Savile Row sponsored event was the “Jermyn St St James”. The event, as always, showcases some of the best tailors and menswear makers on Savile Row, such as Turnbull & Asser. Held at the quaint and high end Fortnum & Mason tea salon, the event location and designs presented were distinctly British.

The event was created to help men figure out the important situations they may face in order to be stylish and dapper:

  • How To Use Pocket Squares
  • Shirt Collars and How to Choose One
  • Hats and Hat Etiquette
  • Recognizing a Quality Silk Tie
  • How to Properly Pack Garments
  • The Perfect Gentleman Shoe Shine
  • The Closest Shave

Each section had a “How To” instructional video and examples of items to choose from, with brands such as Duchamp, Bates, and Hilditch & Key. The event, as the Savile Row events usually are was glamorous fun, and in this case, educational (now I know just a bit more on hat etiquette).

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Casely Hayford

Cities |  London | 

In the Casely Hayford SS15 collection “Art Intervention”, we see how the world of fashion is changing. The designer’s aim is to bring sportswear into formal, therefore making a casual look seem, well, not-so-casual. Pinstripes, typically a more formal look have been toned down to everyday wear, made it to coats and shirts.

The collection also features looks from the “normcore” movement, which is defined as “stylized blandness”. Really, taking something basic and making it stylish due it’s almost lack of design, perhaps the Joan Miro of the design world?

Long coats are making a comeback for SS15, and we see plenty of modern, sharp ones in this collection. The patterned jackets and blazers were also spectacular.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: James Long

Cities |  London | 

James Long brought us back to the early 90’s for a little peek at a “modern” grunge look for his SS15 collection. The collection was inspired by elements of boxing and the “haze” of island life. Taking “city” clothes and wearing them down in a relaxed and calm atmosphere was the message the line brought across.

We still see flashes of Long’s signature stripe, and the collection is full of colorful fabrics, including abstract graffiti of the name “JAMES” printed on some shirts. Most models also had a streak of red or color in their long, shaggy hair, complete with stylish sunglasses.

BDMOTP favorite: the ripped, grunge jean jackets

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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