The Tony Cohencollections are very famous for women–this Dutch designer shows in New York in line with Marc Jacobs. This is a day to be noted in history– the very first show to include a collection for men.

Tony Cohen’s signature is to work with luxurious materials and despite the fact that refined fabrics were clearly on display and that also the men’s collections were gifted with beautiful materials and designs, the contrast was that the women’s collections were much brighter and also more colorful than the men’s.

Perhaps that this has something to do with the idea behind the Tony Cohen men’s collection that the type of man for whom these garments are made is the contemporary nomad, the man who is never fully in control, a man who is on the move, a man trying to make it moving from place to place from job to job… something most of us men can easily relate to.

Yet with his background in high-end women’s garments, the Amsterdam Fashion Week Day 4 Tony Cohen Man Preview Capsule Collection sends a peculiar message also to men: that men can wear high-end refined materials and fabrics; men can aspire to elegance; men can wear double-stitches, or double faced coats, or hemlines worked well from the inside out; and that soft handwoven fabrics are not a man’s shame but rather his prerogative as a nomad going through life. For a man without sensibility, he will most surely lose his winning touch….

There is an indeed an understated luxury in this new clothing line yet to be discovered.

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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