Our last three favorite brands this time around at Pitti Uomo

Munsoo Kwon

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We were thrilled to stumble upon the Munsoo Kwon collection, as we’d previously met him in Seoul during Seoul Fashion Week and saw his runway show there. His collection was youthful and fresh, and we had a nice time chatting with Munsoo himself about the collections. BDMOTP favorite: striped blazer.

Rumisu

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Rumisu is a Turkish brand of hand crafted scarves. The silk scarves and pocket squares are all created with unique and special patterns on them. The neat thing is, all the scarves come with a short story about the pattern on the scarf. How creative! The brand was created by two sisters, Pinar Yegin and Denis Regin Ikisiik, and the scarves have a timeless and elegant style to them.

CB

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CB, which stands for Cecilia Bringheli, is a brand of handmade Italian shoes and boots. Any pattern you see can be placed on any style of shoe that they make. The brand is relatively new, appearing in 2010 and the shoes can work for any occasion. All footwear is made in a small factory in Northern Italy, and they say each pair takes a minimum of three hours to create, as they are crafted by skilled artisans.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

BDMOTP presents three more brands we think are perfect for a Best Dressed Man.

Camplin

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Camplin is a company that makes coats, and historically founder Mr. Camplin supplied coats to the Royal Navy. In fact, it was his idea to use the peacoat as part of the Petty Officers uniform. In this sense, many believe Mr. Camplin to be the “inventor” of the peacoat. And Camplin is still making pea coats, however they’ve branched out a little in their color, shape, and detailing since the basic navy peacoat. But don’t worry, you can still get what might be considered a a Royal Navy Peacoat “Original”. BDMOTP favorite: the bright yellow peacoat.

Bob

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Bob is an Italian brand that is known for their whimsical take on cardigans and sweaters. Quirky patterns and soft fabrics are what makes this brand special. Bob loves to create a solid color sweater with elbow pads or pockets in a different color or special pattern. BDMOTP favorites: patterned cardigans, more specifically the hot air balloon pattern and bicycle pattern and the socks!

T.Michael

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T.Michael is a sophisticated Norweigan brand that focuses on coats, suits and shoes. We are also very excited because they will be doing a collaboration with Japanese designer, Miharaysuhiro in the near future. The Norwegian Rain coats, also designed by T.Michael, are warm and stylish, and the shoes are sleek and fabulous. We are very intrigued by T.Michael, who seems to have his own special presence within his designs.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

Finally, we arrived in Florence, after anxiously awaiting one of Europe’s biggest fashion fairs, Pitti Uomo. This year we had a bit less than compared to past years, as it overlapped with London Collections Men on one end, and Milan Fashion Week at the other end, but that didn’t stop our team from covering some major ground in a very short amount of time. We were extremely impressed with what we saw, and I start with some highlights here.

Angelo Nardelli

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We stumbled upon this vendor after seeing some of their cool and intriguing merchandising-a jacket folded with chains around it. We became more and more intrigued as we couldn’t open up the jacket due to it being in “confinement.” As we chatted with the rep and looked around, it was clear these jackets and items were made of high quality fabrics like wool and more. BDMOTP favorites: brown jacket with green lining, blue wool jacket “chained” around itself.

Richard Friedman

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Jackets and vests seemed to the be name of the game today at Pitti as we also found some gorgeous window pane, houndstooth and plaid jackets and vests. Richard Feldman is actually more well known as a shirt vendor, but we think these jackets are so amazing they give his shirts some major competition. BDMOTP favorites: plaid jackets and vests.

Pashmere

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Obviously the name hints to the fact that this brand presents luxurious cashmere fabrics, which they do. But their designs are also unique with a twist. Bright colors and fun patterns give this soft fabric a bit of life. BDMOTP favorite: playing cards cashmere cardigan.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

Once again BDMOTP is back in Florence for world famous fashion fair Pitti Uomo. After a crazy 3 days in London, we landed in Florence just in time to rush to the Emiliano Rinaldi runway show. The show was located in the beautiful Palazzo Gondi, which is a gorgeous antique palace located just near the Duomo. We meandered around as we sipped champagne and took it all in… stunning venue and stylish people! We finally entered into a small room which a painted ceiling and gold fixtures and got ready to take in the show.

The Grand Chalet runway show was Italian, in and out. The designs were original and fun, and were inspired by Rinaldi’s links to Tuscany, his friends and family, and the Italian culture. The tailoring was perfect and this combined with interesting cuts and lines made the clothes traditional yet innovative. The collection even showed sleepwear for men and also some Japanese style silk fabric suits, very original!

This name, Emiliano Rinaldi, is one to keep an eye on in 2014…we are looking forward to see what comes next from this up and coming new designer!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova

Baartmans and Siegal created a simple yet strong Autumn/Winter 2014-15 line for London Collections Men called Stealth. This durable line was almost all black and navy (practical) and had an emphasis on outerwear. Baartmans and Siegal worked together with outerwear vendor Penfield to get the best performance and comfort, while still having the fashionable details like hidden seams, pockets and zippers and fur trim and linings. The looks featured were down jackets, reversible jackets, trench coats, mohair fisherman sweaters and more. Basically, they are trying to combine style with practicality and I think in this case, it works!

There presentation was lovely although unfortunately not very well lit, but the photos below should at least give you an idea of the style and functionality of their product.

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

Christopher Shannon’s Autumn/Winter 2014-15 line at London Collections Men takes inspiration from the post-punk era and everyday situations like a typical PE class at school. Models walked the runway to blaring music with slicked down, wet hair and jewelry designed by Judy Blame. A sporty line at heart, nylon and knits were used, heavy with patterns and prints. Leather and vinyl also appeared and asymmetric lines were a typical theme. The man skirt also made an appearance here, and I don’t see the man skirt going away any time soon.

The looks are casual and relaxed- definitely weekend looks. This is another collection with a take on the tracksuit. This sort of sporty, 80’s but updated with a modern twist was common trend here for at London Collections Men.

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

As much as I love seeing wearable items walk the runway, there is that part of me that feels like runway shows should err on the edge of crazy, to SET the trends, and let people follow them in a more subdued way. The below designers featured looks that may not be the most wearable for our readers, but were certainly entertaining to see and can put out a new perspective on fashion. Sometimes it’s nice to step away from the uber-tailored, traditional British Savile Row looks and see something a little different.

Joseph Turvey

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The Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Joseph Turvey collection is called “Cash In”.  This season Turvey continues using his signature prints, but now with digital enhancements and hand embroidery. This collection is mainly sportswear, and for a daring man who wants to stand out.

Katie Eary

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With her collection BIPOLAR, British designer Katie Eary explores many themes: inspiration from Irvine Welsh’s novel “Fifth”, which features wickedness and corruption, juxtaposed with the innocence and happiness of American emblem Mickey Mouse, mixed with punk rock. However, we still can’t fully escape the British Savile Row, as Eary’s clothes are impeccably tailored by Savile Row garment makers. We also see here the appearance of the ever growing in popularity man skirt.

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The Kent and Curwen runway may take the cake for the BDMOTP favorite for standout collection here at London Collections Men. I say this because not only did they have some amazing designs, the ability to mix and match jackets and accessories is endless. It’s extremely rare that I can actually say I loved EVERY look in a collection, but I think I truly did enjoy each and every garment featured here.

Inspired by British military, the jackets stood out in this collection. The Kent and Curwen accessories like the driving gloves and the bags were also beautifully crafted from perfect leather. Colors like olive green stood out, and fabrics like leather in the jackets and the bags as well. A symbol of the brand, a cricket  “Splice”-an angular shape inspired by the shape of a cricket bat is present throughout the collection.

This collection was preppy and dapper. However, if you wanted to mix and match some of the jackets or other pieces, you could edge it out a bit or really find whatever “look” you desire.

BDMOTP Favorites: the driving gloves in various colors, like teal and oxblood pictured below

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Check out several of the looks here:

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

Wearability was the name of the game for YMC’s Autumn/Winter designs at London Collections Men. And their point did come across as such: most garments seemed like things most men could wear on a daily basis, which gives me mixed emotions. In fashion shows, do we want to see wearable? Or do we want to see big, bold and innovative? I think the answer is a little of both. I do appreciate that this pieces were garments that almost any man could put on to take a stroll on a Saturday afternoon, as the collection was sporty, with a playful take on the tracksuit. Colors were basic like navy, black, and khaki, with some splashes of pattern and color. This season, YMC is also collaborating with Gunden, Walsh, or Solovair.

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

“Buckle Up and Button Down.” That was the theme of the Savile Row presentation, hosted at The Cabinet War Rooms here at London Collections Men. The bespoke tailors of Savile Row are historically the root of British fashion and tailoring. The Savile Row shops and tailors sponsored the event, in collaboration with St. James and The Woolmark Company.

This very “Mad Men-esque” event was extremely well done in my opinion (and I went in with VERY high expectations). Savile Row never disappoints. The Cabinet War Rooms made for a very unique venue. The history of this wartime bunker is that it sheltered Churchill and his government during the Blitz. It provided the secret underground headquarters for the core of the British government throughout the Second World War. The models were incorporated into the rooms and the venue, and it was almost like a theater event, as models were dressed to the nines in tailored Savile Row vintage attire and spoke and acted as if they were old wartime advisors. I found just the museum itself to be incredible, and of course the Savile Row garments to be beautiful, and put all together it was like a history meets fashion extravaganza experience. I didn’t actually think it would be possible to top “The Grand Match” , which was last years Savile Row event, but it certainly did!

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

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