Yes folks, Amsterdam does have a fashion week, and the cool thing about it is that it is on the smaller side so that really allows for emerging and cool designers to take part in it.

Straight faced and tattooed models walked the Amsterdam runway for Evan Menswear in for the Fall/Winter 2014-15 Collection. This is the very first Evan Menswear collection, created by the young and emerging Dutch designer Evaa Kuik.

Described with the quote, “being classy is my teenage rebellion”, this collection is a mix between teenage punk and elegant adult. Evan Menswear takes basic silhouettes and modernizes them for that added edginess. Kuik explains that Evan Menswear takes a fresh look at the needs of the man of today’s world. Past and present as well as old and new meanings come together and create ‘A New Businessman’. Or at least, a more updated business man!

Furry trim to a parka, a long lavender dress shirt under a suit, backpacks, and a bright cobalt blue take what would be basic looks into a funkier territory.  The coats are solid, and would be easily mixed and matched with various outfits, not to mention they look warm and soft as well.

BDMOTP favorite: Grey coat with black trim, grey suits

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from FashionWeek.nl

Mirto dates back to 1956, where it began creating shirts for men, and later branched out to creating more items to outfit a man in casual and formal wear, and even pajamas. Mirto products are sold in 25 countries around the world.

Their Fall/Winter 2014-15 runway show started off with pop and current music playing, but not over a loudspeaker, via violin. This of course peaked interest immediately.

The collection was called Dream, because it also included pajamas. The first thought that passed through my mind was colorful. It’s nice to know that colors will be back in fall and winter. Things get so dreary sometimes with simple blacks and greys all winter long.

All the right trends were there. Dashes of plaid, velvet blazers, tweed coats, retro patterned shirts and warm knits walked the runway. Even pajamas, and a plaid robe made the cut. Something new-the knit beanie cap made an appearance several times. This was a nice change to the fedora style hats we saw in Milan and London.

BDMOTP favorite: brown velvet suit (so 70’s!) and suspenders with patterned shirt and plaid pants.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

Strolling the Pitti Uomo in Florence in the first week of this year we discovered Spiewak & Sons from New York with their latest collection called Golden Fleece.  Their truly remarkable new collection of parkas, pea coats, and deck & flight jackets is for real men only. Losers not apply. Or perhaps we could say that any man wearing one of these gems will never be a loser, but will have graduated into the realm of the classic man of action, endeavor, endurance, commitment, and determination. Think Ernest Shackleton – an explorer, Eisenhower – a field general, or perhaps even Che Guevara – a rebel.

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The Spiewak N3-B Parka comes in different colors, in brown, navy blue, and in that light grayish military sort of green which you recognize immediately when you see it. They are durable, resistant, and either made of authentic flight satin (used by the US airforce), cotton – nylon, or waxed cotton. The cotton waxing is done by Martexin for extra heavy weather and the cotton – nylon items are produced only in limited edition. This model was originally developed in the 1950’s. Of course such a timeless piece of wear-and-no-tear deserves a critical code name, as if it could be classified as by default in case it goes missing during time of action:  The illustrious N3-B.

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The next collection item needs no introduction as it is such a classic that it has barely changed in more than 200 years: it is the double breasted Melton wool Navy Pea Coat, of which the brochure simply claims that it ranks as “one of the most classic and functional coats ever produced.”  Indeed this model harks back even to the 16th century when seamen and ship captains of yore were roaming the seven seas, at a time when the world was still not fully explored and still full of dangers and adventures both great and small. It is the type of jacket you will draw as a ten-year old when asked to produce the image of the captain of a ship- but don’t forget the sailor’s hat and a smoking pipe!

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The Navy Deck Jacket (the BDMOTP favorite) was originally first produced and developed in the 1940’s for navy crew and vessel workers and is made again of Martexin waxed cotton. Because it is shorter than the pea coat and the parka (like also the flight jacket) it allows for more movement of the body. It clearly is a jacket ready and fit for action; for a man on the deck on the high seas, ready to roll with the waves. Besides it’s wax it has a special outer layer of cloth for protection from cold, rain, wind, and salty waves. Original code name:  N1.

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And that brings us to the final part of this small tour of action coats and jackets: the stuff of legend – not only for those who wore them during their endeavors, but also both in movie & fashion, and probably everyone’s favorite:  The MA-1 flight jacket. From Obama to Kanye West, from Tom Cruise to Jimmy Dean, from Marlon Brando (On the Waterfront) to Paul Newman, from Steve McQueen to Jean-Paul Belmondo, from Shia LaBeouf to Prince Harry: any man with a respectable claim to a life of action, whether in truth or in fiction,loves the flight jacket!  This is surely a group that spans the generations. The MA-1 is not just a classic, it is a timeless piece of men’s wear for the ages!

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But we will leave you the shocker for the end: just compare the random screenshot of Niko Bellic of GTA-IV infamy above trying on a flight jacket, with the picture of Steve McQueen in the caption of this article. There is almost precisely 50 years between the time of the two different images.  Both men are wearing a flight jacket. One is a man of virtual action in a post-modern dystopian video game. The other is a movie action hero in a classic film. But they have the exact same body language, the very same facial expression, the same look, the same stare even. Only the hairstyle is different.  And they are dressed in the same flight jacket. Coincidence?  BDMOTP does not think so.

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In the satirical universe of GTA-IV a large collection of action coats and jackets can be found in the ‘Russian Shop’ on Mohawk Ave, Hove Beach, Broker in Liberty City (which must be a take on Brighton Beach, New York in all probability). The storefront of the shop proclaims in Cyrillic that here you can buy the “latest fashion novelties.”  There, flight jackets, woodland coats and parkas come in the different colors of gray, sand and black and you can purchase one good flight jacket for the excellent virtual price of $26. When you pay at the counter your virtual account is being accurately debited, and when you are about to leave, the cashier bids you goodbye, and tells you with a fat Russian accent:

“Makes you look very strong!”

Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Yulia Gromova.

 

El Ganso is a spanish brand that began in 2004. In 2006, they opened their very first shop in Madrid, followed  by stores in London, Lisbon, Santiago and Mexico City. Starting in 2014, they are moving all their production to Europe…there will be nothing “made in China” about this company!

The Fall/Winter 2014 collection is comfortable street wear and was designed not only to protect from the rain and the cold, but also to invite style and color into a winter wardrobe.

The designs are tailored and sleek but also do seem very wearable, I would love to see a man stroll down the streets of Madrid in any of these clothes. Of course we see plaid here, so much plaid, done in so many fabulous ways! Also present were cuffed pants, decorative socks, and a few more professional looks for the office or a work event.

BDMOTP favorites: Plaid blazers with matching plaid duffle bags.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

There was very little menswear at MB Fashion Week Berlin this year, but we found a few highlights hidden in the mass of womenswear: SOPOPULAR and Brachmann.

SOPOPULAR

“SOPOPULAR is the realization of my own style, which was and still is shaped by my two most important phases in life: London and Berlin”, says designer Daniel Blechman about his label. The clothing definitely has the German eclectic feel to it, and you can also see the British roots. Music plays a huge role in the designs, groups like Bush and Soundgarden give Blechman inspiration. The clothes are casual streetwear, I could absolutely see someone strolling down the street in Berlin wearing any of these urban designs.

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BRACHMANN

Brachmann is a new brand founded and created by Jennifer Brachmann in 2012. The fabrics she uses in her designs are all sustainable and ethical which is something I find new designers especially give a lot of importance to. The Brachmann collection  modern touch to basic and classic garments, especially the jackets.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from MB Fashion Week Berlin Official Website.

The next stop for MFShow Madrid was Tenkey, a funky and casual menswear brand. For their Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection, Tenkey took all the great elements out of Italian and British tailoring, and added that to a more modern design and concept. Therefore, within the collection, you have that feeling of sharp, detailed and well fitting clothes, with a contemporary edge.

We noted distinct elements of plaid (what Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection have we seen without plaid yet?!) cuffed pants, bright colors and patterns, and pairing unique fabrics with one another.

The collection also has a bit of an East Coast feel to it, a little Boston prep school lacrosse player. Sort of a young Ivy league gentleman, with a little British and Italian influence and a modern edge, would be wearing a Tenkey outfit.

BDMOTP favorites: anything plaid, anything polka dot.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

The Sundance Film Festival offers more than a tremendous variety of independent films from all over the world – you see anything and everything when it comes to fashion here. From jeans and a bright orange 1970s hippie shirt and bandana worn by a 20-something who looks like he just picked his clothes off the floor of his condo after a wild night of partying; to a crisp, Brooks Brothers style blazer worn by tea-totaling Mitt Romney, here at the festival to support the premiere of Mitt, a very supportive behind-the-scenes documentary about his failed presidential campaigns.

Why not bring a little color into it?!

Why not bring a little color into it?!

Former U.S. Presidential candidate Mitt Romney and a few members of his giant family didn't leave their comfort zone when it came to dressing for the premiere of Mitt, a flattering behind-the-scenes look at his campaigns.

Former U.S. Presidential candidate Mitt Romney and a few members of his giant family didn’t leave their comfort zone when it came to dressing for the premiere of Mitt, a flattering behind-the-scenes look at his campaigns.

Greg Whiteley, the director of Mitt, about Presidential Candidate Mitt Romney, wore a vintage letter sweater that belonged to his late-father.

Greg Whiteley, the director of Mitt, about Presidential Candidate Mitt Romney, wore a vintage letter sweater that belonged to his late-father.

At one of the celebrity gift suites (more subdued than the outrageous ones of seven or eight years ago that were later deemed too conspicuous and tacky) you have a mix of Sean John’s interpretation of festival-worthy coats next to work boots by CAT – a brand that like Carhartt is typically worn by blue collar workers in the U.S. but is considered high fashion in Europe.

A Sean Jean coat from a Gifting Suite.

A Sean Jean coat from a Gifting Suite.

Fashion Gifting Suite.

Fashion Gifting Suite.

CAT books are popular in Europe.

CAT books are popular in Europe.

Some festival goers are no doubt hoping to get discovered as they strut their stuff on Main Street in the ski resort town of Park City. One fierce young New Yorker looked more like he was dressed to walk the runway in Milan than to dodge piles of old snow on the sidewalks here.

While Jason Schwartzman looked smart in his suit and tie, it was as if he forgot he was walking the premiere line in Park City instead of Los Angeles.

While Jason Schwartzman looked smart in his suit and tie, it was as if he forgot he was walking the premiere line in Park City instead of Los Angeles.

Others keep their quilted black leather skinny pants at home in the Village and opt for jeans and an Army Surplus coat – making their statement with a giant (and often gawdy) fur hat. One hipster appeared to have the entire carcass of an animal wrapped around his head – complete with a tail that reached nearly to his waist.

Fur hood.

Fur hood.

Fur was plentiful at Sundance.

Fur was plentiful at Sundance.

Fur Trim.

Fur Trim.

The Grunge Look is alive and well in Park City – and not just during the festival but all year round. Flannel shirts – new by Walmart or the old vintage variety – are paired with tattered jeans and often accented with hearty beards – some even braided. Visitors who vow never to change their look that works in Venice Beach or Seattle feel right at home here. Despite temperatures in the 30s and lower, more than a few in this group still opt for shorts with their work boots or skateboard sneakers.

Festival goers in cowboy boots also feel welcome – whether they’re the real deal from Cheyenne or some West Hollywood type who just wants to play dress-down.

A popular look for those still wanting to show their flair with a little more subtlety: a tweed or even lighter weight gray or brown blazer with a bulky scarf instead of a necktie.

Jonathan Pryce donned a popular look: a blazer with giant, bold scarf.

Jonathan Pryce donned a popular look: a blazer with giant, bold scarf.

Human Rights Campaign President Chad Griffin opted for the dated but popular hoodie with a blazer.  He is here to promote The Case Against 8, the documentary that looks at the battle over marriage equality in California.

Human Rights Campaign President Chad Griffin opted for the dated but popular hoodie with a blazer. He is here to promote The Case Against 8, the documentary that looks at the battle over marriage equality in California.

You’ll also find stars and their chasers in ski parkas. While they remain colorful, they also seemed a bit more muted than the neon greens and oranges that used to be all the rage.

Entourage's Adrian Grenier dressed like a pro when he hit the slopes.

Entourage’s Adrian Grenier dressed like a pro when he hit the slopes.

All black skiwear is trending too.

All black skiwear is trending too.

More subtle colors dominated the ski-lifts – instead of the bright neons of recent years.

More subtle colors dominated the ski-lifts – instead of the bright neons of recent years.

Basically, the only thing I haven’t seen this week Black Tie – but I’m sure someone hoping for stardom got that formal – but I’m guessing the “tail” was on his hat instead of his tuxedo.
Captions for some photos:

While Jason Schwartzman looked smart in his suit and tie, it was as if he forgot he was walking the premiere line in Park City instead of Los Angeles. Jonathan Pryce donned a popular look: a blazer with giant, bold scarf.

Post and photos by Steve Oldfield.

Leave it to the Italians.  All wannabe soi-disant rapper and hip-hop ‘gangsters’ can make my day!  Notwithstanding your ‘bling’, your cheap mass-marketed clothing lines guilded & steeped in your own artist’s names, your self-styled perfumes, aye, even the faux violence of your well-branded bad-boy life-style, you are still missing one essential ingredient and quality:  That Most Wanted Style at the time of your inevitable arrest!

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Indeed there is never a bad time to make a good lasting impression which will cement your legacy as a bad boy forever:  So why not chose Cantarelli, and their pretty darn awesome ‘Stile Ricercato’, a most wanted style for winter and autumn based upon the mug-shot images of gangsters of times of yore.  Yes for this mucho-retro style we are talking about the twenties and the thirties because it is most probable that indeed we have to go this far back before first finding some real bad boys who cared as much about how they dressed and how they looked, as that they valued their ‘careers’.

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What strikes immediately when confronted with this fascinating collection of menswear in person is not only the old patterns and the old stitch, but very much so the old COLORS of faded browns, jaded greys, and gruesome blues, as if the art of coloring fabrics yet still needed to be invented at the time.  On such old retro tweeds indeed a small white pochette makes an incredible difference and any accessory you may care to carry or wear is going to stand out to the point that it WILL be noticed:  Your tweed casket has a different pattern – it will be noticed; you leave your tie untied – it will be noticed; you have something in your pocket or in your hand – it will be noticed, because your suit is meant and designed not to make you stand out, but to blend and fade you back into the background, so that what comes out is your personal style, your movement, and the character of your face.

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Large long lost-square patterns and some darker shades of rust-red or ancient orange blend in nicely into the surprisingly light fabrics and wearing these precious items you will not only imagine yourself on the scene of old forgotten B-movies for which the script was never really finished or published, but you will also feel like the man of action of old, because these suits and jackets and ties and other items, they are not stiff, not ‘modern’, not meant to satisfy the taste of a man who buys a suit for business, but for a man who is on the move.

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Thus perhaps Cantarelli, a designer family from Arezzo in Italy, may have arrived at their new ‘stile ricercato’ most-wanted collection, and word has it that it was Mr. Cantarelli himself who came up with the idea and that most sales world-wide have been coming from the USA.  Working the Pitti Uomo in Florence at the beginning of January we were impressed immediately by the originality of this rather unique concept & design because the collection harks back to a time when style could not yet be purchased in a store – let alone shopped for online on your handheld device or pad; it is simply NOT ready-to-wear, because this is still from a time when clothes were worn to dress yourself, modestly, carefully, and properly.  Wear-to-Care, and NOT Read-to-Wear.  Just look at the following picture, and enjoy:

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We looked it up and the Italian ‘ricercato’ has several meanings besides the English word ‘wanted’:  Indeed it also means ‘precious’, ‘in great demand’, ‘refined’, and finally ‘most sought-after’ – as  in ‘most wanted’ of course, a very apt name for a very special style, for a very special collection, for which the woman leaning on your arm is called Molly, and for which your hat falls halfway across your face, and your cigarette halfway from your mouth, while you take a sip of your drink.  But then the doors to the bar swing open, and you are inadvertently arrested even though you did nothing; but you are ready…

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Yulia Gromova.

After Milan Fashion Week, everyone rushed over to Paris to see what the French could offer in the way of mode masculine, or men’s fashion. Highlights this season include Ami and Junya Watanabe.

Ami

For Fall/Winter 014-15, Ami set the scene by having the models walk through a snow filled square. I suppose the best way to conjure up wintery feelings is to create winter!  Both professional models AND friends of Ami walked his runway this season, which was a nice twist. His Parisian sportswear stuck to elegant basics:  grey, black and tan with a pinch of plaid and a flash of houndstooth. Warm knits with deliciously large and comfy scarves wrapped tightly, a leather jacket to edge it up… this collection was simple but sophisticated.

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Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe took British punk prep to a whole new level. Not wanting to simply join in on the plaid trend, the patchwork pants gave a fun twist, using plaid and striped patches to embody the trend in a whole new way on his trousers. The velvet coats and blazers were lovely, and most pants were short and cuffed, exposing colorful and spirited socks to the world. The collection had old British feel, and the mohawks and mullets gave the designs a punkier edge.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and all images from WWD.com.

MFShow Men is a new concept of fashion shows, conferences and other events all related to men and fashion. Now that Milan, London and Paris all have a separate fashion week for men, I think Madrid wants to get in on all the fun.

And fun it was! The first show seen was Anglomania, where the love of British tailoring definitely shines through these preppy designs. Right on trend with London and Milan, Anglomania showed lots of plaids, 3-piece suits and mixing prints. The bright colored pant made an appearance, as well as the occasional hat.

Anglomania, a spanish brand created about 12 years ago, prides itself on being the only Spanish brand to truly adopt British style and tailoring into their design aesthetic. They consider their designs and products to be not just stylish, but almost a way of life and a sense of being.

BDMOTP favorite: plaid vest under plaid suit, polka dot tie paired with bright blue suit.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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