Milan Fashion Week: D.Gnak

Cities |  Milan |  Seoul | 

I was very excited to see the D.Gnak runway show here in Milan, as we had the opportunity to see the D.Gnak runway show in Seoul just a few months ago during Seoul Fashion Week. I really enjoyed the line in Seoul so I had high expectations for the show in Milan.

The fun thing about D.Gnak is that they are from Korea and they really know how to mix European tailoring with a little Asian flavor and style. After seeing mainly European brands for the past week or so, it was refreshing to get a vibe of something different. The silhouettes were particularly interesting, and we saw a lot of the current trends like plaid, leather, and shorter pants. Some of the coats also had particularly original cuts, lengths and styles. I like when a designer can change it up but still stay current with trends too.

BDMOTP favorite: oxblood suit with patterned sweater underneath.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

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Milan Fashion Week: Frankie Morello

Cities |  Milan | 

Frankie Morello 2014-15

Frankie Morello dates back to 1999, and was created by two emerging designers, Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti. Their philosophy is that “order arises from disorder” and that a “refined balance of opposites in harmony” are how garments should be created and interact. I thought about this as I saw their Fall/Winter 2014-15 runway show “Retro Space Voyage”, which was a sporty mix of a modern man’s go to essentials with retro thrown, and it all made perfect sense.

I appreciated that many of the garments could be easily paired with something else; the mix and match element was apparent throughout the whole line-true sportswear! Neoprene was used in a few of the looks, and there was a grand emphasis on the structure of the clothes, a looser, cocoon fit. Several of the garments had saying on them, like “Rude” or “I’m Not Cool” or the brand name. The looks were mainly black and white, but we also saw the occasional pattern, some plaid (get your plaid asap, every single designer we saw in London and Milan showed at least some plaid!) and of course, the old school throwback to the beloved baseball hat.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

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London Collections Men: Marwood

Cities |  London | 

Marwood was another unique designer we saw in the showrooms at London Collections Men. Marwood creates accessories for men, more specifically, ties, bowties, pocket squares, scarves and more. For the Autumn/Winter 201-15 season they even came out with some wonderful travel items such as an eyemask and warm scarf/wrap that could double as a blanket.

With their first collection launching quite recently in just 2011, Marwood is a relatively new designer but has gotten the hang of things fast! Their items are designed for men but women also appreciate a lot of their items, especially their signature lace looks.

This season Marwood has collaborated with Alice Made This, who creates precision metal cufflinks. With a Marwood bowtie and a pair of Alice Made This cufflinks, any regular young lad can be morphed into a Best Dressed Man.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections Men: Diego Vanassibara

Cities |  London | 

London Collections Men isn’t just about catwalks and presentations, it also has some showrooms which host up and coming newer designers and presents them to the world. One I am always excited to catch is Diego Vanassibara. This is the third collection we’ve seen from him, and each time I am enthralled with what he comes up with!

For Autumn/Winter 2014-15, Diego gives us “Dynamic Jewels”.  Perhaps the collection has this name for it’s rich jewel tone colors, or perhaps because these shoes are true gems themselves!

In this collection, we see shoes (oxfords and loafers) and boots that have been updated to provide true functionality. Diego has created a lighter sole which gives more traction, however in no way shape or form sacrificing this style aspect of the shoe. We see his signature wood panels, though done in new and creative ways on the boots-this season on the side as an accent. Diego is quick to explain he has a shoe for every occasion: the office, a night out, in the studio,for planes, trains, and automobiles. And he is right, the collection fits together but also has something for everyone.

Finally, all you ladies out there rejoice because Diego now makes his men’s shoes as small as a men’s US size 3  so women with tiny feet can wear his strong, independent, masculine shoes.

BDMOTP favorites: olive green oxfords, orange boots and orange loafers.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Fashion Week: Alberto Moretti

Cities |  Milan | 

We had just enough time between shows to pop over to the Alberto Moretti presentation, which consisted of luxury footwear. This family company began in Arezzo (Tuscany) and Alberto Moretti makes shoes for both men and women. All the designs are hand crafted right here in Italy, making for products perfectly constructed and executed. The shoes are flashy yet elegant, and apparently a signature of Moretti shoes is velvet. These shows are chic and glamorous, and just so very Italian! This season, chains, fur and gems appear on the shoes. You can also find just the right amount of leopard print here, not too much or too little. Rumor has it that Ryan Gosling and Cameron Diaz are fans of this luxurious brand.

BDMOTP favorite: Lace on black velvet slipper, and the rock style, a calfskin loafer with a leather sole and rounded toe.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

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Milan Fashion Week: Ermanno Scervino

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Ermanno Scervino’s Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection, Geometry of Style, was seductive and elegant. Filled with plaid, this collection takes geometry to a whole new level, with different sizes, colors and styles of plaid throughout the line. The coats and cloaks were incredible, in fact a whole line of coats and a whole line of capes/cloaks were shown in various shades of black, black, grey, white and the standout color of the collection, cobalt blue. Many looks were paired with fedoras (hats are definitely back), warm knit scarves and gloves.

Towards the end of the show, a few velvet suits were shown, which were were tailored to perfection (as was the rest of the line). Herringbone and houndstooth patterns made an appropriate appearance, as did turtleneck silhouette, mainly in the form of sweaters. There were also a few token leather jackets shown.

I have to say, design wise, this was one of the most quality and beautiful collections we’ve seen thus far in Milan.

BDMOTP favorite: anything cobalt blue, plaid coats (ALL of them), velvet looks

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

 

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Milan Fashion Week: Phillipp Plein

Cities |  Milan | 

Noir Cowboy, Phillipp Plein’s Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection was full of Wild West surprises. After last season’s Casino themed show, we were pretty excited to see what this season’s line would be all about. As we walked into the Teatro Alcione, country tunes blared as a model rode a mechanical bull. As we stepped into the next room, fake “sawdust” (in the color noir, of course) was on the ground. We took our seats and the arena was packed. The show started with cowboys fighting in an old saloon stage, followed by cowboys on horses riding in and having a “shootout”. Following this, live rapper Angel Haze came out, and the show started.

The men were dressed as cowboys, but with a modern twist. A lot of leather jackets, some denim, fringe and plaid were all present within the collection. We saw a lot of luxurious materials like crocodile skin, calfskin and pony skin, which seems to be a reoccurring theme here in Milan this season. Plein explains that this collection is all about the modern cowboy: one must have boots, lots of leather, pretty much anything a man this day in age would wear while getting ready to defend his honor and fight for his love and rights!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

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Milan Fashion Week: Vivienne Westwood

Cities |  Milan | 

After seeing Vivienne Westwood’s incredible Spring/Summer 2014 line last June, we were super excited to see it again this season. The show was packed full of people ready to check out her new Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection.

Ms. Westwood is known for her environmental concerns, and instead of a PR handout at the show, we simply got a paper saying “Fracking is the Big Fight. We must challenge the irresponsible behavior of our goverments who are trying to force fracking upon us”. For those of you who don’t know, fracking is the process of drilling down into the earth before a high-pressure water mixture is directed at the rock to release the gas inside, and is controversial because of negative impact it has on the environment.

Obviously, the Vivienne Westwood collection reflects her viewpoints on protecting the planet and I suppose part of her inspiration comes from this. In any case, the collection was beautiful, consisting of some casual wear and then more sophisticated looks like suits and overcoats.

BDMOTP favorite: anything oxblood color, especially the suit and coat

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

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Milan Fashion Week: John Varvatos

Cities |  Milan | 

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The john varvatos Fall/Winter 2014 collection was filled with surprises, the biggest off all being the band KISS making an appearance at the show! But the entire collection was based on surprise, the idea of a man in disguise, adding a bit of fantasy to the collection, the same way the band KISS adds a bit of disguise and fantasy by painting their faces. Several of the models had the faces painted in a KISS-esque manner and had that sort of “Rock and Roll”vibe going on.

The collection is shiny and shimmery, using luxury fabrics like silk and embossed calfskin. Hats were a fun addition to the accentuate the designs. Silver details draw your eye to the collection. The first thought that comes to mind when you see these looks is simply sharp. The demure suits are paired with combat boots and shimmery touches, which sounds odd, but evokes charm and interest. The john varvatos collection is sharp and tough while still staying elegant.

BDMOTP favorite: pretty much everything!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

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Milan Fashion Week: Tom Rebel

Cities |  Milan | 

Tom Rebl was the very first show we saw here at Milan Fashion Week. The Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection was entitled “Shocking Radiance”. The line was inspired by warriors and icy lands in Northern Europe, and models had their faces painted to emphasize the warrior look. Though Tom himself is German, the line is crafted here in Italy.

The collection was quite large and spanned a variety of colors and silhouettes. BDMOTP liked the more streamlined looks, and the suits were phenomenal. The colors were nature inspired, a lot of evergreen and bronze were used.  A lot of the collection was juxtaposed, for example a glossy gold next to a rough leather. In some cases very exotic fabrics were used: fur, snakeskin, pony skin and mohair, to give the collection a luxury feel, while in other cases very contemporary fabrics were used like polymide wetsuit fabric or nylons (again adding to the juxtaposition of the collection). The masculine spirit was clearly emulated within the Tom Rebl collection, but also contrasted with the man skirt to give it a more feminine edge.

BDMOTP favorites: army green suit and bronze suit.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Yulia Gromova.

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