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Flashback

Diesel! Only the brave. Since 1978.  This year of inception probably explains some of Diesel as a style as it was the epoch of the irreverent anti-rebel-rebel years when blossomed punk rock – the global anti-counter culture movement and anti-rebel force against those who had believed that the sixties with its tepid student demonstrations, it’s free love, and it’s overplayed rock ‘n roll, had been the top of what freedom for mankind would have to offer for the age to come. Thus yesterday (april 23, 1978, Olympia Theatre Paris to be precise) Sid Vicious irreverently killed the cat (no worries just a song) by doing it ‘muayyyyyy wayyyy’ and Joey and Dee Dee Ramone would rather be bored to death and sedated (1978 release of ‘I want to be sedated’ by the Ramones) than rebelling against a cause, and they expressed this in many shades of grey and no colors, please no colors – and in mono-tones – no tunes please, no Beatles tunes –, and not for the reason to try to upset anyone’s apple cart, but to just for once and for all NOT to have to prove any point at all to anyone in society except perhaps to let it be known that all rebellion is doomed from its inception anyway while inevitably leading to a grand failure: irreverence as a cultural movement was born.

And thus somehow, this time specific irreverent & disinterested way of life calling for a ‘and we don’t care’ attitude expressed through a monochrome & monotone dis-engagement from life as a lifestyle statement, we can still find represented today in the Diesel Black Gold men’s style & fashion collection for the fall & winter of 2014/2015. Diesel! Only the brave. Since 1978.

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Sid Vicious, poster boy ‘style irreverent’.

Flashforward : Action

Only the Brave!  When once in Florence one may as well try to wedding-crash the hottest ticket in town, which was the secluded Diesel Black Gold runway show at an old abandoned train station somewhere off the periphery of town during Pitt Uomo 85 last January. The BDMOTP team had not arrived yet and invites were impossible to get (hmm number 27 on the waiting list) so the only approach was the ‘only the bold’ velvet ropes routine:  Dress like James Bond style Casino Royale, wait at the ropes, and just hope to ‘get lucky’ while wearing dark aviator style Gucci sun glasses for an evening show outside in the cold and the dark (this only works in Florence).  When then some desperate losers without invites actually decided to try to jump the ropes and got caught, it was the obvious time to make a polite, Clooney-esque, approach to the woman in charge of operations.  She asked us for press credentials and the simple open-sesame magic word proved to be “BDMOTP, New York”. Now that’s a lie, because BDMOTP is from DC. But we got in!

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Andreas Melbostad

This would prove a highly interesting (but rather short) and explosive runway show and probably more than we had bargained for in the end, and not having an official invite BDMOTP ended up in the fourth row in the stands not too far from the podium. The show was short, rocking, colorless (white, black, and many shades of grey and metal) and powerful, and was hosted by the singular Diesel guest-star men’s wear designer from the high gothic north: Andreas Melbostad of Norway; Imagine the cry of the Valkyries descended upon a warm and colorful Florence for one winter evening bringing cold from the north to take over a dark abandoned train station for 15 minutes. Dark castles made of ice and Nordic looks, Gothic inspirations – both in ambiance and design: Ice Black Gold. Glacial yet dark; a haunting mix.

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When asked later about the Black Gold style by Vogue in an interview, Andreas would define the collection as ‘fearless’, and would call the inspiration for the collection an ‘irreverent rocker attitude’ while also using the word ‘subversive’ to indicate the Diesel Black Gold code for men. Thus his guest-star designer interpretation of the Renzo Rosso (the godfather of Diesel) style & man’s wear collections of yore lead to what Andreas in the Vogue interview calls the making of a ‘restrained rebel’ while emphasizing an irreverent rocker-attitude of the ‘bold and the brave’. Sounds to BDMOTP to be very close to the punk rocker creed and logo of the seventies, except for the word ‘restrained’ – but that is fashion, that for under the gross veneer of any man going in style, the objective can never be to really be offensive, but rather to please, and to impress. It’s called civility where the offensive morphs and changes into style! And thus style irreverent is also a style beautiful.

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The Return of the Fonz

Yet despite the 50 shades of grey, charcoal, ice, silver, metal, steel, and nickel – brooches included – doing the rounds in all its splendor in front of us, the star of the show was not a special style modeled on display on the runway, nor was it Andreas Melbostad or Renzo Rosso , but undisputedly someone who can only be described as special guest of honor:  Matteo Renzi , mayor of Florence at the time and PM of Italy today, who very well indeed may qualify as the Best Dressed Man on the Planet. Kennedyesque in his youth with a swagger like Fonzi, and dressed more casual than Dean Martin on his best day, Renzi’s star appearance before seating was such that the runway resembled the Louvre on a crowded summer afternoon tourists flashing the motionless Venus de Milo all at the same time out of the fear of missing the moment and not being able to prove to anyone else later that they were ‘there’.

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Matteo Renzi

Director’s Cut

And this is precisely why in Italy even in the winter and in the dark, amid fifty shades of grey, one still needs a dark pair of Gucci sunglasses, so that you can hide your eyes. In Italy beauty or intrigue are never far away, and the unexpected can strike you with its charm, or scare you with a checkered mask. For long after the show had already begun and the taking of pictures of Mr Renzi had long stopped, a suspicious looking and not-so-well-dressed bold man seated silently & alone two rows down from BDMOTP was still taking close-up pictures of Mr Renzi and his entourage who were sitting right across the aisle by quietly using his iPad to click and zoom in on every movement and every face – except for those of the models on the runway.

Imagining things? Maybe! But definitely the right time to use steel-colored Gucci sun glasses in the dark and no longer letting them sit uselessly on your head. Be fearless! Viva Italia! And for Diesel, only the Brave!

Posted by Sandro Joo.

When people think of vintage clothing, the old painful memories of grandparents’ mothball-filled closets come to mind. And any treasures found had to be sent for dry cleaning, immediately.

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Nowadays, vintage is the way to bring back style from the past and pairing with something modern, giving one a new, unique look. Men who vintage wear know that it is about having fun and wearing history at the same time. Tastes can vary from SteamPunk Victorian to 1950’s Marlon Brando biker chic, to 1960’s Mod, to 1970’s Bowie Glam, and to 1990’s Goth. With so much to choose from, vintage stores are the place to shop for these one of a kind treasures. Wearing vintage is lots of fun and can be quite addictive.

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House of Vintage  in Toronto carries everything from motorcycle jackets to a 1950’s Rockabilly wool coat, with a focus on European style. If you want to find a classic item like a 1960’s Hudson’s Bay coat (which are famous for their red and green stripes), then House of Vintage is the place to go.

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Owner Dennis Adamidis has been an industry insider for 20 years. His expertise in the field of vintage and antique clothing globally recognized. House of Vintage has recently gone international with their second location opening in London, England.

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For those very particular about wearing something that is “used”, please be reassured that each item they carry is professionally cleaned and carefully hand restored.

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When it comes to boots, the popular choices are Fry cowboy boots, combat boots, (especially 1980’s-90’s classic Doc Martens), and Red Wing workboots. Some of the hidden gems that I found were a black velour jacket, an authentic nautical top and 1920’s spectacles. Flannel shirts are quite popular , especially ones with an Aztec pattern.

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House of Vintaage carries the full line of accessories from cuff links, vintage patterned ties, hats, and bags. And for those who remember Converse running shoes back as a teenager, here is the place to relive one’s youth.

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Post and photos by Sari Colt

 

Founded in 2012, London-based, Dent De Man offers tailored items for men made with vintage prints fabrics. The main focus of the brand is on the creation of the print.

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All the prints they use are vintage prints made by the Holland brand Vlisco, they range from 1880’s to 1930’s. The prints are made with traditional Javanese (from Java, Indonesia) printing techniques, which has been industrialized about a hundred years ago. All of the Dent de Man print designs are hand drawn, hand carved and then put through vintage printing machines several  times to get different layers. Therefore, each garment has a slightly different print, making every piece in their collection exclusive. The quality of the fabrics is outstanding, each print has 25 year guarantee. The sewing production is based in both Portugal and England.

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The Dent De Man winter collection was presented in Milan during Milan Fashion Week this January, introducing an outerwear line for the very first time. The outerwear has a very rock’n’roll, British feel to it. Items include a classic British macintosh, overcoat and bomber jacket. For the winter collection, the designers are bringing in more wools and knits combined with patterned linen.

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Don’t worry-if you aren’t daring enough to go for a bright patterned jacket, there are more subtle, contemporary pieces like a sweater or long sleeved shirt that you can pair with a basic jacket.

The motifs of the prints used in this collection are devoted to the themes of “Life and Death”. There are prints called “Embrio”, “Love birds”, “Calypso” and “Dice of Love”. Each print brings it’s own energy and meaning and tells it’s own story.

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Fashion director Chris Chasseaud explains, “Every individual tells a story. People resonate with different prints, whether it’s the color or whether it’s the design. And they have their own feeling of what it might mean.”

Dent de Man is very much linked with art and music. The creative team is inspired by the British rock’n’roll scene of past and present. Miles Kane and other rockers and artists are among those who wear Dent de Man. Indeed Dent De Man is created for free and charismatic people- those who are comfortable with themselves, and not afraid to bring out their emotional side.

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Dent de Man is generally translated as “Tooth of Man.” Chasseaud elaborates that the name has more meanings.

“We wanted a very simple play on words, nothing too much, which even reflects in our logo, it’s very simple black and white, because we want the prints to be doing all the talking. It’s just a fun expression and sort of name. It has many meanings. We want to be mystical, that’s the whole point of the brand. There’s something about everyone who wears the brand, but you don’t know what exactly. And the same with the brand, there’s something you like, but you don’t know. We don’t want to give too much away, because it’s all about the print. The print tells the stories, the print brings the energy.”

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The spring prints, such as this one, have been very popular in Italy.

The brand is very popular in China, Hong Kong and Japan. They have several Italian boutiques, because the summer color palette really works for the Italians. They give buyers an option to choose different color combinations, which allows different boutiques to have a unique aspect. Some territories, like in Asia, might want certain prints, when in Europe they might want others.

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The Dent de Man jacket is going to cost around 450 to 550 euros depending on the print. But know that along with this price, you are getting a handmade, unique garment…one that brings a little mystery to life!

While roaming about Cibelespacio, the area where MB fashion Week Madrid is located, several designers and brands set up stands where you can explore and shop between shows. This season, Lord Wilmore was in attendance, a relatively new Spanish eyewear brand.

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Lord Wilmore was created for people who want to be adventurous and live life to the fullest. Doing so, of course, while wearing glasses. Here in Spain, getting a solid pair of eyeglasses or sunglasses can prove to be extremely expensive, and not to mention sometimes lacking if you want something a bit stylish. Enter Lord Wilmore. This brand isn’t cheap, but it does provide quality at a reasonable price.

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I have to give the Lord Wilmore team a high five, because really, opening a successful business in the midst of Spain’s economic crisis must have proved to be difficult. The fact that they seem to be doing quite well is an enormous feat. They sell their product online, and ship to countries throughout Europe and North America. You can also buy their products at various optics shops here in Madrid.

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Lord Wilmore creates a sort of nerdy, funky line of specs, the kind that are trending right now. I luckily, happen to be rather blind, and my glasses are the real deal, but for those who don’t need glasses, you can easily fake it. One doesn’t need to have poor eyesight to wear Lord Wilmore’s glasses…they can be purchased with or without corrective lenses. Both sunglasses and eyeglasses alike nowadays are not just a corrective tool for poor vision; they are a true style accessory, especially for men. A certain style can completely change your look for the day. And Lord Wilmore can certainly offer you style.

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The “Walt White” style glasses, popular due to the television show “Breaking Bad”.

Some of the styles are the wayfer, the circle style glasses (think early 1990’s journalist living in NYC), the Urkel look, the ones that seem to be Brooklyn hipster and of course, the newly trending “Walter White” style glasses with a thin, squareish frame, made popular by cult favorite television series Breaking Bad.  Of course, most options are available as sunglasses as well.  All options are marketed as unisex, so you can get a matching pair for your girlfriend. And I can sleep easy at night knowing that being blind puts me right on trend with my nerd glasses!

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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If you ever wanted to know what the French acronym BCBG means in fashion lingo, now you know (not to be confused with CBGB the old punk rock haunt of Ramones legend in NYC, or BCBG Max Azria, a female fashion brand): it stands for Bon Chic Bon Genre (Bon Chic = good elegance/style & Bon Genre = good class/manners, but, in double entendre, also ‘the right kind (of people)’) which, for purposes of talking about the interesting, fresh, and elegant style of Vicomte A., we are going to translate freely as either ‘preppy, upper crust, upper class, or gentry’.

We all know the look very well:  It’s that polo, hunting (not fishing), horse & yacht racing look often copied and woven into the fabric of elite global institutions of higher learning who have appropriated it as the trademark, and the introduction, of what is claimed to be a superior education and Preparation (‘preppy’ as in ‘preparatory school’) before real pitfalls and rumbles of life commence – even inside the doldrums of High Society. It is that collegiate look, in which a tie (or the colors of the stripes thereon) or a butterfly around your neck becomes a tool, not to succeed in dress-for-success business meetings, nor to simply show your fashion for the sake of pleasure or style, but to set yourself apart – and distinguish yourself – from other levels & classes of society, assuming others’ values are different from yours, not even mentioning the quality of taste of others’ fashion: because not everybody is equal!

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So which a grand idea indeed to make this type of exclusive high society style (Vicomte A. has its origins in Paris and Palm Beach) available to all people and to the general public at large, ready-to-wear, ready-to-buy, and in the grand array of all the effervescent colors siring the rainbow! Back in the sixties it was precisely this power that Yves Saint Laurent harnessed by ‘democratizing’ fashion with prêt-à-porter, the ready-to-wear, in a time when both sex and rock ‘n roll (and also fashion) conspired for the great universal brotherhood and equality of mankind; so why not also make the preppy collegiate look available and accessible to everyone: superior ‘gentry’ style for the masses and affordable to all, in many bright colors, in many different forms & patterns, and of course not without the odd accessories to go along (hmm binoculars maybe).  Because not just every look comes with so many values or pretensions!

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So do allow me, Sir, to wear this hunting jacket, even though I do not own any hounds; and please I would also like to have that bright yellow parka, so that I may impress my friends with my own importance despite not visiting any races; and, for esthetic pleasure’s sake, also, please, that college scarf, it is no ordinary Scottish square I presume that pattern, but verily a checkered ‘Prince de Galles’ (Prince of Wales), is it not, and by all means not to be confused with an ordinary boring ‘brownish’ Burberry I hope?  Ah, a real Vicomte A., you say – the French answer to (Polo) Ralph Lauren and Paul & Shark; but you still won’t find me in the Hamptons, in Newport, or Gstaad, Switzerland, for now, mind you; I will just wear all of this on the streets; the streets of my small provincial town. For I am not Jay Gatsby; and I like to be stylish, but not so preppy!

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Thus Vicomte A. is a very interesting, successful, and young & fresh French fashion company founded in 2005 and managed well by viscounts Arthur de Soultrait and his brother Marcy. The brand has many stores world-wide in upper crust locations and the brothers made good use of branding their aristocratic title for a global audience while creating a multi-effervescent colored style of high-line high class collections made available and accessible to the public at large. Like at Ralph Lauren the original colors and styles of Vicomte A. originally hark back to the sport of polo, but also, in lesser extent, to ‘hippique’ (horse racing/riding), hunting, and yachting. Yet the colors used are much brighter than in the Ralph Lauren collections; this must be that famous Paris light effect of which Parisian painters spoke of old. The style of the collections can be considered as‘chic’ (VA’s motto is ‘l’instinct chic’, the chic instinct) but probably a little more sporty and casual (décontracté in French) than Ralph Lauren, perhaps a little bit closer to the collection of GAP, but of course, not nearly as ‘common’. BDMOTP would call it sporty, collegiate, yet fresh & elegant.

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So to finish off this ‘colorful’ essay on collegiate wear for the upper classes now available to the masses thanks to Vicomte A., of course BDMOTP would not let fashionistas off the hook without a fine (mass marketing) sample of some of the sophomoric behavior and taste which every now and so often inadvertently seems to accompany the global elite on their travails, long-sufferings, travels and behaviors.  Benetton does it and is well known for it.  Abercrombie & Fitch thrive on it, and even have a budget for it in case it leads to lawsuits.  Calvin Klein pioneered it.  And so Vicomte A. apparently does it every once in a while by throwing a party:  it is called shock or scandal marketing for the very reason that it can never be considered real branding. A most royally colorful assembly indeed!

Photo from Flynet.

Photo from Flynet.

Voici Monsieur le vicomte Arthur lui-meme, during the bash for the 7th anniversary of Vicomte A. in 2012. And here, perched above his left shoulder, we see Pippa Middleton – related to British royals, but not by blood – dressed in the very same pink colors as the bright anniversary pink of the Vicomte A. house brand. So scandalous, so naughty, so bad!

Back in the 17th century Monsieur le vicomte would probably have been imprisoned (‘embastillé’ in French, as in ‘sent to the Bastille’) for ‘lèse majesté’ (co-optation of royal prerogatives, of the royal pearls and insignia, while not mentioning the perversion of  the royal court’s morals as a serious crime because this type of offense was better left to be pursued by ‘lettre de cachet’) in much the same way as Nicolas Fouquet, the first French minister of Finance, was imprisoned for life by Louis XIV after simply daring to build a more beautiful chateau and garden (Vaux-le-Vicomte) than the Sun King had ever owned himself.

And so today, 350 years later in our contemporary climate of global buzz marketing & instant publicity, anything with a direct mass appeal to popularity and your ‘number of likes’ is allowed: Voila Vicomte A.: because it is good to be the King!

Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Yulia Gromova.

To close out MB Fashion Week Madrid, Jesus Lorenzo and Miguel Marinero did a joint runway show, mainly devoted to fur and leather looks. There were only a few menswear looks within each designer´s  Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection, but they looks were dramatic and luxurious.

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Jesus Lorenzo is actually the youngest fur fashion designer in Europe. His showcased collection, entiteled ¨Groenlandia¨ features looks inspired by film noir and the 1980´s. Dye was used prominently in the fur looks as well, creating bright and pastel looks. The looks are obviously for the elegant man. We loved the brown leather coat with fur hood look, perfect for a cold, wintery day. Anyone could easily survive the polar vortex with one of these furs!

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The Miguel Marinero collection was inspired by the 1990´s. Finally, we are far enough into the 2000´s to have our new designs inspired by the 90´s! There were only a couple menswear looks in the collection, but the were strong ones. I hope to see more mens looks in his future collections. The two looks were black and grey and also quite formal and appropriate for an evening look.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

¨Nobody loves no one¨. This phrase, said by Chris Issak at the end of his song ¨Wicked Games¨, was the inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection ¨NO ONE¨ by Davidelfin. The idea of the double negative implies a play on words, that actually, everyone loves someone…and these juxtaposing ideas strongly influence the line.

Models walked down a staircase ending on the runway and the show opened with female Spanish celebrity Bimba Bose (model, actress, singer, DJ). The front row was packed with Spanish ¨famosas¨ like reality TV celebs Alaska and Mario, actress Rosy de Palma, and socialite Carmen Lomana, among more.

The collection was symbolized by a black and white print that appeared in several of the looks, and Dr. Marten boots to match. The menswear included this print, with brightly colored winter coats in jeweled tones and fedoras. Both men and women alike carried totes, duffles and purses with the words ¨NO ONE¨printed on them (bags were designed by Pelayo Diaz). An interesting look was a collared shirt, cut halfway off and attached to another upside down collared shirt. The second collar hangs over the stomach, and the sleeves tie behind. Original, to say the least. Another unique piece was the onesie tuxedo…a fun take on a normally quite formal look!

This line is for a man that is confident, modern and quirky. Someone that wants to be stylish but also doesn´t really care what anyone thinks of them.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

The Ion Fiz Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection ¨Geografía¨, or ¨Geography¨in English, was inspired by an area of central spain that is known as being a flat and dry grassland. The colors in the collection-greys, browns, and neutral greens reflect this. The menswear, which the designer considers to be ¨New Dandy¨is just such, rather British, classic and tailored to perfection. The more evening looks are considered to be ¨Smoking¨looks, which I am certain are titled in this way to refer to a typical after dinner situation in which the smell smoke cigars, drink brandy and play cards.

An interesting trend in this collection was the shorter jackets, lately things have been longer so that was an original touch. The hats were also very elegant and classic. The line also featured glasses, as Ion Fiz has a line of optics.

BDMOTP Favorite: olive green outfit with short jacket, glasses and hat.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Ana Locking´s Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection ¨American Landscape¨ is a mishmosh of the American dream: pioneers, cowboys, indians, the Wild West, beautiful mountains and blue skies. Here we see it all, cowboy hats, cowboy boots, aviators, ponchos, a little bit of everything that pays homage to our dear America and it´s past.

Before the runway show started, we were able to get a sneak peek backstage of some male models and of the makeup and hair going on.

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Railroad folk tunes remixed as models walked down a runway with a quilted map of America in the background.  The typical farmer in middle America, or the cowboy riding his horse through the Southwest are glammed up in this collection. Turqouise and Sedona reds are frequently used within the line, as well as that dusty rose often seen in Southwest sunsets or rock formations along Route 66.  Of course we see some plaid and denim, and a new take on the cowboy boot. Several shirts said phrases like ¨The American Journey Is Emotional¨and ¨Life is an Experimental Journey¨.

Does this mean an urban cowboy is back for fall? Will will see our farmers strolling down 5th avenue in glittery chaps and shiny hats? Maybe not. But it´s not a bad idea to incorporate a little American glam into your look. After all, all of us have a little cowboy inside just waiting to come out, no?

BDMOTP favorite: dusty rose suit, newfangled cowboy boots.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco

The Fall/Winter 2014-15 Francis Montesinos collection ¨Silk On The Road¨ is not for the faint of heart. This original, creative line inspired by the Silk Road showed a large amount Middle Eastern and Asian influences.

The peacock feather theme and bold, bright colors were apparent throughout the entire collection. Although the menwear was sparse, what was shown was one of a kind. There isn´t much that BDMTOP has never seen before, as we make it a habit to see fashion shows around the world, but I can honestly say I saw some styles I have never seen before.

One of the looks I found extremely interesting was the extra baggy trousers. Of course in the 1990´s baggy pants were popular, but I have don´t think I have actually ever seen super baggy, yet tailored, trousers, especially in a non-denim fabric. Mad props for being original Mr. Montesinos!

Another unique look was the transparent, sporty body suit. It sounds like something a bit odd, but seeing it on the runway was very intriguing!  I really have never seen anything just like this either.

Although I am not sure how wearable most of the looks are (to his credit, he did show a few very wearable plaid sweaters and trousers), I really appreciate that Francis Montesinos pushed the envelope and created something new and different, which is actually a very difficult feat in the fashion industry today.

BDMOTP favorite: green velvet suit with a sheik-like tunic underneath

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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