The Spring/Summer 2014 Exteberria collection , Gernika, was inspired by rural Spain. Many of Exteberria’s past collections were inspired by other cultures, but for Gernika, he looked close to home to get inspired.  There were also moments of military influence too.

Exteberria is well known for using leather (and fur in his winter collections), but this season there was also a lot of knitwear, of course tied in with the leather, filling the collection many interesting and unique garments.  The colors were basic, mainly black with a few grey and white looks.  In general the looks were simple, but were far from boring.

Exteberria also used some interesting sandal looks in this designs.  Some of the female looks were almost exactly the same as the male looks, making the collection seemingly androgynous.  The wonderful thing about Exteberria’s collection Gernika (and all of his collections) is the impeccable tailoring.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

The Francis Montesinos runway show was truly a show to remember.  The event began with a stage set up with rainbows and flowers, bright and electrifying.  A three person flamenco group kicked off the show, playing and singing traditonal spanish flamenco music.

Frances Montesinos Flamenco

Flamenco starts off the Francis Montesinos runway!

The first ¨model¨to walk the runway was actually a flamenco dancer, who ¨danced¨down the runway.  Beautiful and theatrical, the show had an amazing vibe to it, right from the start.

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This Spring/Summer 2014 collection was named ¨Pura Vida¨, (meaning the Pure Life)  and was clearly inspired by Spanish flamenco dance, music and costume, but also libery and freedom.  The clothes were bright and colorful, and featured many hand woven laces and knits.  Famous Spanish male model Antonio Navas walked the show, and looked darn good doing it!

Focusing more specifically on the mens portion of the catwalk, it did have a feminine touch to it  (maybe the florals?), but if paired with the right pieces, could also be made to look much more masculine.  Floral prints and stripes were used in colors such as grey, off-white with pops of navy and coral.  The clothes were happy and spring-ish.

One interesting bit about the Francis Montesinos ¨Pura Vida¨ collection for men was that it incorporated several different styles such as suits, trousers, shorts, casual and more formal shirts, scarves, bags, knitwear, and even underwear.  There was atleast one piece of every type of clothing, and it´s nice to see a little bit of everything. Sometimes you see collections that feature only one type of look, like only suits or only t-shirts and trousers and while it can be great to have a very focused collection, it is also refreshing to see a line that has something for everyone.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

If BDMOTP could be a designer, Shakkei is the one.  The Shakkei Spring/Summer 2014 collection was absolutely fabulous and the suits were perfect.  Classic and tailored, this collection was beautiful.  The hats were an excellent touch-perfect for spring.

The exciting part is that as we spoke with the Shakkei designer, a sharp, kind young man named Gabriel Baradee, we realized that the collection, (actually, all of his collections) are made from organic and sustainable fabrics.  Even the buttons are made from stones, coconut or shells.   You can´t help but love the green aspect!

The Shakkei collections are exclusively made right here in Austria.  The aesthetics stem from Japenese art (now the name Shakkei makes sense!) and have an international influence.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

 

Kayiko, founded in 1988 in Vienna, is a primarily avant garde fashion line for confident, urban people.  The Kayiko Spring/Summer 2014 line, entitled ¨Get Funky¨ seemed to have some Asian folk influence to it, which can be noted in the jackets and the baggier style pants.

BDMTOP specifically liked the Kayiko jackets, which of course can be combined in other ways (with jeans, more tailored pants, etc)  to create other casual or even more formal outfits.

Another interesting point about the runway show was that she used some cool different types of people as models, such a pregnant woman and people of many different ages, races, and sizes.  It was a welcomed change from the typical runway.

When we chatted backstage with designer Karin Oèbster, she confirmed that her styles do have a bit of Asian influence to them, (especially past collections) however she is currently broadening her horizons  and searching for new inspirations.  Her design philosophy ¨Less is More¨can be applied to all of her creations.

She also explained that Kayiko has organized a charity called the Global Jacket Project.  All proceeds go to benefit the Ute Bock refugee project in Austria.  The story is that four jackets have been created by Kayiko, and are traveling the world.  These four jackets have been photographed on a variety of people around the globe and will continue to travel.   For more information on this, visit Kayiko online.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

 

Another standout designer which was part of the Bangkok Couture Thailand Fashion Showcase was The Urban Apparel.

The Urban Apparel, as the title suggests, is a urban collection inspired by the urban city of Bangkok.  Most of the styles in the collection are androgynous (which we are seeing so much more these days when it comes to fashion).  The collection is inquisitive and interesting, and some looks even had their faces covered, probably to stress the point that many of these looks can be worn by men or women.  The Urban Apparel collection is actually 70-80% androgynous, or unisex.

When we sat to to talk with the two designers from The Urban Apparel, they really helped us to understand their inspiration for the collection.  Bangkok is a big, messy, urban city and the line reflects the chaos of it all.  They explained that Bangkok, especially, is a growing city, and as a city dweller, you have goals, and they are constantly shifting and moving quickly.  The collection grew out of this.

Although at The Urban Apparel they favor neutrals, like black and white, they also  like to have some special detailing so it doesn´t become boring. They aim to  interact different materials and fabrics to keep things interesting. The zippers, in concrete, are based on the many wires Bangkok has hanging around the city.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

Here at MQ Vienna Fashion Week, the BDMOTP team was able to catch the ¨Bangkok Couture Thailand Fashion Showcase¨.  The showcase featured four designers, two of which showed menswear: Paul B. and The Urban Apparel.  It was fantastic to see Paul B.,  as he was the only collection we´ve seen thus far here at MQ Vienna Fashion Week that featured ONLY menswear.

Prints were the name of the game for Paul B.  Shorts, pants, shirts, and more were covered in delightful, whimsical designs, like dots, foxes and squirrels.  You definitely have to have a little edge to your personality to wear these designs, as they are quirky and fun.   Paul B. also had a few more tailored looks like suits.  The collection ¨Preppy Funky¨reflected that moment on a sunny spring day when the gardens are about to bloon and the daylight stays longer.

When we were able to sit down and chat with the designers of Paul B., conveniently named Paul and B., they explained to us that they love using foxes, more specifically Mr. Fox as a symbol for their brand.  In this particular collection, Mrs. Fox was also used.

Paul and B.  actually have four different fashion lines back in Thailand: Paul B., Pattric Boyle, which is a bit more glam, a t-shirt brand called Paul B. Garçon, and a teenage brand aimed at youngsters 16-20 called Foxpixel.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

 

Leather is the name of the game at Callisti.  A collection featuring both menswear and womenswear, Callisti´s designs were sultry and sleek.  Mainly black and grey, with pops of green and orange, Callisti´s line had a darker vibe, even though technically the line was for spring/summer.  However, after spending some time here in Austria, I realized that spring and summer can easily be chilly so showing heavier jackets for these seasons is not uncommon!

The menswear, in concrete, was mainly black, beige and grey.  Warm casual wear was featured as well as leather jackets.  The menswear also seemed to very functional and wearable.

After speaking to Callisti designer Martina backstage, (we almost confused her with a model-she looks like one!) she informed us that her designs are inspired by simply people watching.  She love to sit at a cafe and watch people go by, and these daily looks are what inspire her to create.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

The Tiberius SS14 line was a breath of fresh air. The line, entitled ¨Tiberius Conquest¨ was concise, strong, and a true ¨collection¨. The catwalk showcased both men and womenswear, with each model wearing a hat. Now we knew there had to be some sort of historical significance with the hats, and later the designer, Marcos Valenzuela explained to us that he was very inspired by the historical figure Napoleon (hence the hats). In fact, he told us that history will always have a large influence on his designers and be present within his future collections.

As I previously mentioned, the collection was very ¨strong¨.  All the looks featured strong fabrics and colors, like leather, some suede, and generally a lot of black, with pops of neon pink, white and evergreen. Each design was unique, impactful and eye catching. The show was fierce!

Later, when we had time to catch up backstage with Marcos, he explained to us that Tiberius started 20 years as a fetish shop! When he arrived and took over 9 years ago, he began creating softer, more romantic items, but he still obviously uses a lot of leather! His Columbian roots often help to inspire his designs as well.

Chatting with Marcos backstage and later on the evening for cocktails at his shop, we were really able to see the heart and soul Marcos puts into the Tiberius collection. He is hardworking and dedicated, and his passion comes through in his designs and was very apparent during his runway show. We look foward to seeing more from Tiberius!

Designer Marcos Valenzuela leaves us with a quote which inspired the Tiberius Conquest collection, ¨He who fears being conquered is sure of defeat¨ -Napoleon Bonaparte.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

The BDMOTP team arrived in Vienna, Austria, ready and raring to go for MQ Vienna Fashion Week. The first show that we saw was SS14 collection by Pitour, which only had a few pieces of menswear, but they were very appropriate for Spring and Summer. The colors and fabrics were both very fitting, as cottons and linens dominated the menswear looks, in the colors white, khaki and a bright, pale green. The Pitour designs are very conceptual and architectural, with bold details.

After the runway show, we were able to chat a little with Pitour´s designer, Maria Oberfrank. She explained to us that the line was inspired by the elements of summer: the sunshine, the airy breeze, and the colors that complement. This is why she uses a lot of light cottons, linens and even silks.  She also noted that she typically uses natural Austrian fabrics, and believes in supporting local markets and suppliers.  So it should be no surprise that she is also one of the early organizers of MQ Vienna Fashion Week.

The Pitour line is currently available in select cities Europe.

BDMOTP favorite: white linen pants with leatherette stripe

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Posted by Lori Zaino

Nick Roy has been a successful magician for years. Now he’s creating some real magic – helping men of all shapes and sizes look their best in custom-made garments that won’t break the budget with the Gentleman’s Cooperative. He’s selling them in a “clubby” atmosphere – John Allan’s (111West Jackson Blvd. South Loop, Chicago), a penthouse spa in Chicago where men can get a haircut, massage and manicure and then a shoe shine, a game of pool and a beer. Nick was recently seen on the latest season of “The Bachelorette.” While he didn’t get a rose that first night, his business is blooming.

Here’s a Q&A with Nick Roy about his concept and his (brief) time on the Bachelorette.

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 1. This may seem obvious, but what are some advantages to getting a custom-made suit?

There are several advantages to going the custom route. I would say the #1 reason guys go custom is for the proper fit. The obvious candidates for custom are the gentleman who are big, tall, short, or skinny, but there are plenty of guys in between. When most men say they are a “perfect fit” off the rack, there are usually a number of alterations that can be done to make it an even better fit that they just aren’t unaware of. If you are willing to spend at least $795 on a suit, there’s no reason to go to shop off the rack, and that’s not a sales pitch, it’s a fact. You can get a much better fit and a higher quality fabric by going custom, so long as you have the 4-6 weeks to wait for the turnaround time. Once you get your perfect fit down, reordering is such a breeze since our tailors keep your pattern on file. The other reason men go custom is for the customization options. Choices on pocket styles, pic stitching, contrasting thread, linings, and even a monogram, are non-existent in the off-the-rack world. Men also take more pride in their garments when they’ve had the luxury to design their own, since it has been made entirely for them.

2.What are some sizes and body types that particularly benefit from the service?

Tall guys have a hard time finding clothes to fit their arms, and pants that are not high-waters. Big guys have a hard time finding clothes that actually fit them and don’t make them look even bigger than they actually are. Most larger men have been told their whole life they can’t wear flat front pants because they need the added room from the pleats…not true in the custom world. Short guys have a really hard time finding a range of fabrics since the selections are very slim off the rack. Guys who work out a lot and have a big upper body but a slim waist have a very difficult time finding separates, and by the time the alter the pants that go with a jacket they’ve bought, their side pocket are almost in line with where their back pockets should be…not a good look. Another problem athletic men, and slim men have is finding shirts that don’t make them look like a kite billowing in the wind. Shirts here in America are made for overweight people generally, so a proper fit can really be a nightmare to find.

3. What inspired you to get into this line of work?

I have always been in sales, and always had a eye for fashion, so when Tom James had asked me to interview out of college, I checked it out. What I love about my job is that no day or client is the same, and you get to meet so many different walks of life. I’m definitely a people person, and everyday I get to outfit some of the most interesting people you could imagine. I also love the fact that at the end of the day, it’s just clothes. If your Northwestern Mutual guys screws up your account, it’s a lot more serious than me just having to let out a side seam. I’m a really easy-going down-to-earth kind of person, and this line of work fits perfectly with my personality.

4. Tell us about your space?

Our shop is located in the penthouse suite at 111 W Jackson in Chicago. We have partnered with a high-end men’s hair salon, so in addition to all of our custom outfitting, men can get a haircut, shoe shine, manicure, or even play a game of pool, relax in the lounge, or smoke a cigar on our rooftop patio. The space is really special.

5. What kind of experience are you trying to create?

Whenever I meet with a guy, it’s completely different than walking into a Nordstrom’s. I take the time to understand what each person does for work, who they see, and what image they try and portray, because as we all know, we only get 7 seconds to make our first impression. Going the extra mile is what distinguishes Gentleman’s Cooperative from our competition. Most retail stores don’t give men a reason to be loyal. We have created an environment where you will never have to worry about a pushy or incompetent salesperson. It’s a place where you feel at ease, and more like a member than a customer. Through our model of reciprocity, men quickly understand that it’s not just about the clothes with us…it’s about the lifestyle. After being in the industry for several years, it’s astonishing how much of a markup people will charge their customers. Granted those people will just say “it’s business”, but our philosophy is to give our guys a high-quality product we can stand beside and the epitome of customer-service, in exchange for their loyalty.

6. What did you learn about men’s fashion from your time on the Bachelorette?

Ah, the bachelorette. Well honestly I didn’t really learn anything about fashion from that experience, except that I had the best suit out of all the guys…which should be expected. I legally can’t speak to most of the behind the scenes stuff, let’s just say reality tv is not what you expect, as I’m sure most people are well aware of.

7. How does your own sense of style inform your work?

As in any field, it’s crucial to know your craft. I’ve never been one to follow fashion blogs, and stay on top of what’s trendy, but over the years I’ve read many publications on the do’s and don’ts of timeless fashion. I am definitely an outside the box thinker and have an intuition for what works. I would classify my sense of style as bold and timeless, because as we all know, fashion fades and style is forever. I love bright colors and loud patterns, which I would attribute to my personality, but my fashion sense has been more innate. A crucial rule for how I coordinate outfits is: Major Minor. What I mean by that is the minor color of a shirt should be the major color of a tie. The major color of a shirt could also be the minor color of the pinstripe in a suit. The major color of a pocket square could be a minor color of your shirt and tie. When your coordinate outfits according to this rule, things pop, they work together, and really turn an outfit into a wow-fit.

8. What’s your advice to clients on becoming one of the BestDressedMenOnThePlanet?

One rule I live by, is to be the best dressed man in the room by 10%. I’m very humble and not loud our boisterous, but you will certainly turn heads in a Gentleman Approved way if you shoot for dressing 10% better than your peers.

 

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Prices:
Ties: $75+
Shirts: $99+
Pants: $249+
Shoes: $400+
Sport Coat: $625+
Suits $795+

Interview by Steve Oldfield

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