The BDMOTP team battled through pouring rain, airport delays and jet lag to make it to Sise at MB Fashion Week Toyko. After a very long journey, it was absolutely worth it to check out Day 1 here in Tokyo, and Sise showed a great collection. The line was entitled, ” The Story of a Man”, which is interesting because there was a lot of juxtaposition between masculine pieces with strong lines, and feminine silks and floral patterns within the collection.

The Sise show was held at the National Stadium in Tokyo, which gave it a really unique vibe. The catwalk was placed underneath the bleachers, black carpets were set down on the pavement and chandeliers above the runway, which in addition to the rain, gave everything a cool, foggy effect, almost spooky even!  The show was fairly long and showed many looks-some casual and some more formal.

The line was distinctly Japanese, it reminded me that yes, we are here in Tokyo and this is Japan Fashion Week.  It was nice to see a designer take inspiration from his own country and fabrics. The more “feminine” inspired looks, and even some of the more masculine ones also had a kimono style robe shape or fabric. The occasional flower or bird was sewn into the clothes, which also added that Japanese touch. Shinier fabrics made an appearance on the runway too. Finally, there were some fun alternatives to the traditional suit by adding shorts, texture or a shiner or patterned fabric.

It was obviously the collection was a fall one, despite the florals, the blacks, browns and grey’s gave it a distinctly autumn feel.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

Dressed Undressed was the very first show that BDMOTP viewed at MB Tokyo Fashion Week.  Both males and females walked the catwalk, with severe hair and makeup, looking very serious. The looks were sharp and boxy, leather and zippers for added detailing.

The highlight of the show was really the pops of cobalt blue among the basic black and grey.  Cobalt blue is a color that is trending for fall and spring, and believe it or not, it looks good on almost all men, regardless of skin tone.  So if you want to add a pop of color to a basic outfit, cobalt blue is an excellent color choice, as many reds, yellows and greens can make certain skin tones look washed out.

The Dressed Undressed line was seemingly androgynous, which I am seeing more and more of on the runways and on the streets. This trend is up and coming  not only Asia, but Europe and the United States too. Designers and trend setters seem to be differentiating less and less between the lines of what men can wear and what women can wear.  That being said, the man skirt, which is a controversial item, was also seen on the Dressed Undressed Runways. It will be interesting to see how this trend pans out in the future of fashion.

BDMOTP favorite: cobalt blue long coat.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

All images courtesy of Dressed Undressed

With Lux and Noah, “And” is the word.

An integral part of any creative process often involves collaboration.

Two London creatives never shy of collaborating and not limiting their creative abilities to the fashion industry, are Lux and Noah. They commonly work with British musicians and bands creating artwork, clothing as well as stage projections and lighting composing a dialogue between musician and designer, merging the boundaries between the two roles.

Lux and Noah’s ethical conscience also sets a fine example to other brands working within the occasionally absent-minded fashion industry. As Noah points out, “…we are always sidetracked by the boring dull aesthetics that usually apply when something is sustainable, which is where we want to help change Society’s perception.”

With a focus on quality and maintaining a strong love of fashion, these boys set out not only to source, but also produce all of their clothing sustainably in the UK.

Lux and Noah’s most recent collaboration was with with fellow Londoner, Gold Panda, an electronic producer and performer.
Released on the 30th of September the capsule collection titled LNGP, gives a nod to sports wear, aiming to fit Gold Pandas active, jet-setting lifestyle through lightweight, low maintenance clothing. By combining comfort while maintaining the luxury aesthetic so typical with the Lux and Noah vision, they have created something which is appropriate in any wardrobe. It’s a collection for the urban nomad.

The urban jungle environment, referenced through severe black lines and masculine silhouettes, fasten with otherwise contrasting floral prints and pastels creating a new dialogue within the collection. LNGP successfully draws upon the rich and vibrant eclecticism that interests and inspires Gold Panda.
Emma Lux and Noah
One of my favorite pieces from the collection is the reversible bomber jacket. The simple silhouette allows it to transcend any occasion yet the focus on the floral print adds more character to any outfit. Easy to throw over jeans and a t-shirt, the silk crepe fabric makes it a piece to rival the comfort of your pajamas.
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Lux and Noah’s LNGP capsule collection is only available for Gold Panda at present.

Posted by Emma Pulbrook

Photo Credits:

Photographer: Roberta Schmidt
Stylist: Alessandra Arzarni
MUA: Sabina
Accessories: CUTLER&GROSS, Loake, New Balance

BDMOTP’s Steve Oldfield sits down with celeb Eric Bana in NYC and they chat about fashion, cars, and more!

 

BDMOTP’s Steve Oldfield chats with Eric Bana from BDMOTP on Vimeo.

Surmesur, with locations in Toronto, Montreal, and Quebec City, is a new kind of boutique. Stepping us into the future, it uses technology to make the ultimate custom suit or shirt.

The concept is very innovative with each store having an optical scanner that is used to take measurements. Similar to the ones at the airport, it translates into creating the perfect fit.

There are 5000 choices of fabric to choose from and using their software, you can pick the combinations that work best in creating a one of a kind look. This technology makes it easy and quick to choose your perfect look. The stores are very modern and really simplify the made to measure experience.

With each client having their measurements on file, future orders can be done online, without having to come into the store. Nothing is easier than that.  Surmesur is a fitting shopping experience for a busy man on the go.

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Surmesur2

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Posted by Sari Colt

So, I’m on the subway when what could only be described as a little bit of masculine heaven passes by me. He should have been Mediterranean perfection except for that buzz kill of a suit. It needed a minimum of two inches cut away from each side or better yet; he should have bought a suit that fits.

Really Bad Fit

Yikes! Bad fit! Don’t be ” this guy”.

Gentlemen, the difference between a sophisticated man and a guy in a suit is tailoring. When you buy a suit, fit is key. Are your shoulders stopping in the right place? Is there space in the neck area? Is the jacket gapping anywhere? You want your suit to flatter you, not make you look untidy. However, it’s not likely that a suit will be perfect off the rack. On average, most men have thicker necks, broader shoulders and/or longer arms than the size the design world uses. Think of the sizes as an educated guess. Also, you should keep in mind every designer cuts differently. It’s possible to find your perfect match.

Attempting to get more information on this, I sat down with my favorite tailor, Ruth, and found out what you should know. I can’t prove it but I suspect she was birthed at a sewing machine with a measuring tape around her neck. Needless to say she’s been making people look perfect for a long time.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR SUIT FIT PERFECTLY

Ruth says:
• If the shoulders and chest don’t fit, then it’s simply not worth it. It will cost too much to fix it. Leave the suit behind.
• The sleeve, the side seams, the collar and the back seam can all be adjusted within reason.
• Don’t forget the pants. The hem should stop about 1 1/2 inches below the ankle. There are some newer slim fits that stop above the ankle. Don’t hem those pants.
• Look at yourself in the big three-way mirror in the best light and consider the length of the jacket and the style of the suit. Are you too short to carry off the six button double-breasted blazer? Should you have a shorter jacket?

Good Fit

This is how a suit should properly fit.

There are a few ways to go in terms of where to look for suits and suiting. The most expensive alternative is custom.

Custom made suits can be pricier, but worth it.

Custom made suits can be pricier, but worth it.

Truthfully, while it’s not cheap, I suggest having it done at least once for the experience. If that’s too tall of an order, I suggest the department store. Higher end department stores like Saks, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman carry suits that GQ dreams are made of. For the cost conscience guy, there are lots of department stores that sell quality suits at reasonable prices. Sometimes department stores have sale events where you get free tailoring with purchase. Depending on the retailer you could get crazy good deals.

What I haven’t talked about are the smaller specialty stores and the smaller privately owned shops. Most small specialty stores can’t afford a full time tailor, however, asking costs you nothing. Private shops usually can offer great service and sometimes face time with the designers. Where some men make their mistake is choosing a suit solely based on price. A good deal doesn’t make for a great look.
The suit doesn’t have to be custom; it can be vintage, but take the time to have it tailored. A little bit of effort in your appearance will put you heads and shoulders above the rest.

*Special thanks to Ruth Wongdebalderas at the Washington DC Lord and Taylor for her collaboration.

Posted by Denee Davis

 

 

Barquillo 42 is a menswear boutique in the trendy Chueca neighborhood of Madrid.

Barquillo 42 is a menswear boutique in the trendy Chueca neighborhood of Madrid.

Barquillo 42 is a menswear boutique in the trendy, funky neighborhood of Chueca in Madrid, Spain. With the natural light streaming in and the boutique’s high ceilings, it’s the perfect shopping setting. Co-owners Javier and Gonzalo opened the boutique three years ago, and since then business has been going strong.

As I calmly browsed the collection of pants, shirts, jackets, shoes, boots, scarves, accessories and more, I realized that the items had a real universal appeal.  This was confirmed when I was able to chat with one of the co-owners of Barquillo 42, Javier.  Javier explained to me that their clothes attract people from 15-70 years old, a large range.  Note he said ” people” and not “men”. Although the clothes are not feminine in the least, Barquillo 42 has a small portion of women that swear by their clothes.  This doesn’t surprise me, as the new hot thing is the androgynous look.  Women sometimes purchase their shirts, pants, and scarves.  Clients also range from artists, decorators, Spanish celebrities, even university students.  They certainly have something for everyone.

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This season, Javier mentioned that the down feather vests and jackets, even though winter has not made an appearance yet in Spain, are flying off the racks.  The scarves, sweaters and boots have also already been big bestsellers this fall, despite the ongoing high temps.

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Most of the items are purchased from designers based in Italy, England and Denmark, however their wallets and bracelets are made and bought right here in Spain.

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My personal favorite was the blazers.  I thought the styles were extremely unique, and I loved the patterns on the inside for that extra added detailing.  The blazers were made from various fabrics, which was nice because this created casual and dressy looks, of course wool for a warmer more classic look etc.

I highly recommend if you happen to be in Madrid that you pop into Barquillo 42 and look around-you won’t be disappointed.

Posted by Lori Zaino

Photos by Yulia Gromova

SFPinkII
Not every man is comfortable in pink as  pink is the one color traditionally appropriated by women, but should we really care? Why NOT wear pink just like any other color on the spectrum? It seems to make no sense NOT to wear pink. There is no reasonable argument or logic not to wear pink. Yet despite the many pink business shirts or polos, and the occasional pink tie that we notice in man’s wardrobe & fashion, the color pink is generally grossly under-represented for men to wear since what appears to be the beginning of time.

Therefore, please follow carefully the following analysis of why perhaps men CAN wear pink if they want,after all, it’s analogy of sports fashion, which will indicate that no man should fear to wear pink, not in any form, style, or fashion.  Men in pink it is!

The old joke is that in order for a man to qualify to be on the Italian National Soccer Team, one’s first qualification must not be talent, fitness, stamina, or experience – but simply beauty. One would expect therefore that Italian men in soccer would neither exhibit fear nor shame to wear pink. And indeed, the venerable soccer team of Juventus of Turin (whose nickname is the Old Lady), last season (2012/2013) for the first time dared to have their AWAY jerseys – good grief – in the controversial color of pink. Why, we shall never know – besides the fact that sponsors and clothing manufacturers often change the away jersey kits while keeping home jerseys colors the same –, but for this season (2013/2014) Juventus now has changed their away jersey from beautiful pink to ordinary canary yellow. Was pink too progressive even for the Old Lady? Even for beautiful men, all of them close to gods?

No, but now we must look to most southern and isolated part of Europe, a place which was once part of ancient Greece, and not of Rome, to find the ONLY soccer team in Europe which has the courage and the sense of style and fashion to wear pink – pink & black shorts, pink jerseys, pink socks – for their home jerseys; it’s the Sicilian city of Palermo.  The Telegraph of London once had the Palermo outfit listed as number one in a series of ugliest sports’ wear on record, but we respectfully digress, because the Palermo players look good and comfortable in their jerseys, and most definitely handsome as well.

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But its glaringly clear that all men are not comfortable in pink. Not even in sports. Quick research shows (and you can try this yourself) that if you Google a man’s sport and the color pink that many different items show up, but hardly any teams or players. Palermo is an exception confirming the rule. The NFL has a pink program to create awareness for breast cancer apparently, but no team has appropriated the color. No hockey or basketball or baseball teams in pink. Pinkseems to be limited for fundraising efforts in men’s sports, also in baseball. And when grown up men and professional soccer players are asked to put on pink shirts for just one such a fundraiser, the results may be sadly comical. Here is, if one picture is worth a thousand words, a picture of Everton (the Premier League) trying on their pink fundraising jerseys before the match; all players look HIGHLY uncomfortable (except the goalkeeper who is in green).

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So are there really no real men who love wearing pink in the universe except the beautiful Greek-Italians of Palermo?
Well, to make mother proud, and to change the name of the game, there certainly is ONE gravity defying professional rugby outfit in the Capital of Fashion itself – the Stade Français of Paris – who may very well have appropriated the color pink in a way that no woman’s sports team ever could. They wear pink on their sleeves, not just soft pink like Palermo, but frequently outrageous bright pink, decorated with flowers no less, setting the tone in voluptuous colors, and not just the tone before the match. These guys mean serious business not only when it comes to crushing opponents, but when it comes to style. If indeed it is true that, to paraphrase Oscar Wilde, every good conversation always starts with a pose, then these guys are not afraid at all, and they will start their rugby games with no fear and living the full bounty of what is superior style & color. Pink is their name & pink is their GAME. It is said that a man’s armor is his body and such, in all their skin colored hues, Stade Français, make all MEN – and their mothers – proud! Shocking indeed, but shockingly beautiful!

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Thus visiting the Stade Français boutique at the stadium to do research for this article, the thought dawned that perhaps here was the only Pink Men’s Wear Store in the world. All items imaginable (lanyards, flags, hats, scarfs, shirts, underwear, socks etc. and then some) at the store were available in different hues and shades of pink, generally ranging between the color of fuchsia and soft pink, but with the flash pink missing for this season.

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Stade Français carries a beautiful and grand Lily as a logo on all items (many rugby teams worldwide, both at the national level as well as club, have appropriated symbols NOT from the animal kingdom, but from kingdom of plants (the English Rose, the Fern of the All Blacks, the Lily-of-the-Valley by Toulon rugby, etc.)) and recently the venerable South African rugby team, to stay in style, has changed its logo from the Springbok, an animal, to the King Protea Flower, a grand flower, as the new symbol of a united post-apartheid South Africa.

Stade Français, by living up pink, has single-handedly smashed with both hands the stereotype that pink for women only.  The color pink has now become available for men to be courted and used. But how is this going to affect men wearing pink in the future of every-day life? Pink in the office? Pink at the bar? Hmmm.

Must we really first become a soccer prima-donna with a gun tattoo on the arm, and wearing a number 10 on the back, and then score goals like Fabricio Miccoli of Palermo?

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Must we really become first like James Haskell of Stade Français: Ugly, mean, English, and fearsome, before pink looks good on us!?

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No! I think not.

Aerosmith sang long ago:
Pink, it’s my new obsession
Pink, it’s not even a question
Pink, it’s the color of passion
Cause today it just goes with the fashion

So just to make sure, and to be on the safe side, we asked the pretty saleswoman at the boutique Stade Français, what, if anything, a man should NEVER wear in pink. The answer was ruthlessly immediate and direct, and yes gentlemen, there does remain a single taboo which even Stade Français Rugby will not break for you: A man is never EVER to wear PINK dress shoes …words to live by!

Posted by: Sandro

The future of fashion is now. This was the clear message at the YashkaThor party at Sketch, London, where an uber-stylish crowd in extravagant headwear enjoyed a variety of entertainment such as edible pyramids, a sitar player performance and reading of philosophical parable.

A scene from the YashkaThor hat party

A scene from the YashkaThor hat party

Two men in hats at YashkaThor party

A model and designer enjoying the YashkaThor party

YashkaThor is a hat brand, which is devoted to creating a radical luxury. It was founded by two philosophy students who decided to make hats, as they are objects which can interact and play with people on different levels.

Even though YashkaThor hats will remind you of 60th’s riding hats, national Chinese or dervish hats, they are very unique. The designers managed to invent completely new hat shapes. There are now twelve very special and minimalistic, but also very pure and powerful hats in their collection.

Each of the 12 hats has it’s own philosophical meaning, aura and energy. YashkaThor believe that, “hats have transformative powers that affect the wearer’s mood, appearance and experiences”.

All the hats are made of spectacular rabbit fur material, each one is hand molded and sewn with sheepskin napa leather and hand painted with 23.5 carat gold, which is part of the brand’s recognizability, along with the very simple and clear forms. It’s the most exclusive hat you can buy in London at the moment!

The Draaoe Hat

The Draaoe Hat

The Gilgamesh Hat

The Gilgamesh Hat

The Leonard Hat

The Leonard Hat

The Prinn Hat

The Prinn Hat

YashkaThor duet describe their own view of the brand-concept:

“We think that when one places a luxurious hat onto one’s head, you prime yourself for luxurious thoughts and luxurious living. By luxury we mean the ability to crown every moment. YashkaThor hats are for people who put a high value onto living consciously.“

Philosophy of YashkaThor comes through everything they do, no matter whether it’s a their wonderful hats, designer’s surrealistic outfits or reading of pseudo-mythic story of Kazakh on their party. Everywhere you’re trying to find a hidden sense and allegory; it’s a kind of a very clever riddle posing. The pair explain how they work:

“We start the day with meditation and sing out the YashkaThor mantra. Then we structure out our day and create hats. The life of the philosopher is often seen as one of contemplation, and after sitting and looking at the mountains we decided to climb one and well, the mountain was a hat.”

One of guests shared his feeling about wearing a YashkaThor hat: “ It makes you feel  taller, it makes you aware of your whole body. The whole energy and aura, which comes with the hat makes you feel more beautiful and you look more beautiful to the outside world.  I think you can connect with a lot of interesting people with these hats. You will only know what I’m talking about, when you wear one of these hats for a day through London and feel how people look at you differently and ask where you’ve gotten the hat. “

So, wearing YashkaThor hat is a serious fashion and life statement. A whole new philosophy. It’s for those who are not afraid to stand out from the crowd and want to try new.

You can purchase a YashkaThor hat at their atelier in London or at one of the two boutiques that stock YashkaThor in Moscow.

A YashkaThor Hat

A YashkaThor Hat

A YashkaThor Hat

Posted By Yulia Gromova

This year, MB Fashion Week Madrid Highlights include just a few designers who presented a a splattering of menswear looks within their collections.

Martin Lamothe, Maria Escote and Carlos Diaz were among the designers that showed a bit of menswear.  Each designers is a bit quirky in their own way.

Martin Lamothe

The theme for Martin Lamothe’s collection ” Water Olympics” was obviously water.  Most of the colors were blues and greens, and the line was meant to reflect strength and glory.  Of course the line also projected more of a sporty look, hence the Olympics portion of the name.

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Maria Escote

Maria Escote’s collection was sexy and scandalous, called Private Dancer. She even started off the runway show with a pole dancer!  If you look closely, you can also see the pole dancer print on some of her clothes.  Tattoo covered models also sported black mesh.

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Carlos Diaz

Carlos Diaz had what one might consider to be a crazy collection.  The first male model actually skateboarded in wearing a smiley face outfit.  Several of the looks were covered in smiley faces print or stamped with a spider logo.  High fashion? Maybe not.  But certainly fun!

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Posted by Lori Zaino

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