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ModeaParis: 22/4 Hommes

Cities | Paris | 05.02.2015

Modern was the name of the game at the ModeaParis: 22/4 Hommes AW15 runway show. Simple, clear design left little space for useless details, in fact, most of the garments with pullovers, sans zippers, buttons and other extra style, except, of course, for the occasional appearance of some bold fur in unexpected places.

Fur arm warmers or neck detailing, as well as placed more traditionally on coats reminded us that clothes for the coming fall and winter seasons are not just there for decoration, they are there for warmth and fighting any frightful weather than may occur.

A prehistoric bang hits the futuristic with a hint of leopard, tying right into the fur concepts. Any of that extra styling that was non-existent in the pullovers was made up with fur overlays on the tops of traditional dress shoes. Just in case, of course, the tops of your feet need to be kept toasty.

The collection was mainly navy, with other basic clothes like white, brown, beige and the occasional subtle plaid. Above all, neat and precise tailoring helped the pieces walk the runway with ease.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Franz Kennedy.

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ModeaParis: Noir Noir

Cities | Paris | 04.02.2015

This is very cool idea but the execution leaves to be desired: Create new brand (Noir Noir); take the concept of an old Steve McQueen flight jacket (you know the one with the orange inlay reverse which easily wears wherever you go as if it is your high school jacket); take traditional French pattern in the form of classical imagery from old painting and tapestries; mix the collection into beautiful traditional Parisian couture showroom among well established and classical brands; price brand into the upmarket; – and hope for the best.

There are some things very right and very wrong with this approach.

One, at an upmarket price where your newly born T-shirt rivals a high-end Gucci or Fendi T – shirt (that’s okay because the Noir Noir shirts are really beautiful), your FINISHING (haute finition) needs to be picture perfect – or as the French say ‘impeccable’. But it was not, and the finishing on the items leaves to be desired. So fix that stitching first we would say, and let’s call this oversight a birth defect which can still be corrected.

Two, the idea to use old medieval tapestries (the Lady with the Unicorn) and rococo painting (Fragonard and Watteau type of imagery but we’re not quite sure) as a backdrop on a flight jacket or on a cool lounge or club Tee is interesting, because it’s exciting to see the traditional and classical design making a grand comeback on the club and the party scene (these items are cool for real fancy chancy Kanye West wannabes who are looking for the latest greatest in order to impress the hoi polloi with something super-original which no one else has ever seen or heard of – like privately printed Mylon sunglasses or so).

Three, why exactly does everyone need their own new clothing line or brand new brand these days? Victoria Beckham vêtements, Kim Kardashian perfume, the Jay-Z clothing line.

The global hype starts to resemble something like having your own Maserati, your own Aston Martin, your own trophy wife, a trophy celebrity boyfriend (yes that is you Lewis Hamilton) – and this has sadly nothing to do with style or fashion per se any more, but everything with just claiming your own trophy brand – it’s owning a brand name in order to increase your own (brand).

So granted that we loved the Noir Noir collection (providing the stitching was better), here is the moral of the story: If you have a great idea (rococo and medieval patterns on a modern day flight jacket for men’s outer -, club, and lounge wear) do the execution of it all with as much style, precision and panache as that Watteau and Fragonard used to paint: With a sense of brutal perfection! For if you don’t, something will inevitably get lost in the translation – even when you hang your new collection amidst the class of a traditional Parisian showroom for haute couture.

Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Franz Kennedy.

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ModeaParis: Walter Van Bierendock

Cities | Paris | 03.02.2015

In a beautiful French aristocratic palace, we sit back to enjoy the designs of Belgian fashion designer Walter Van Bierendock. Designs, fit for a king, or perhaps…a modern-day king…or perhaps a court jester even?

Van Bierendock’s unique color palette and brazen silhouettes shout a bold and vibrant statement across a usually-quiet Parisian gallery. He lists his inspirations to be art, music and literature, ethnicity and nature.

Considering his intense color choices, I am thinking perhaps Warhol, the Sex Pistols and maybe something appropriate for the olden day ritual of book burning? Exotic ethnicity and nature in only it’s boldest form, perhaps, South East Asia or Hawaii.

His collections shows every color in the rainbow, as well as a variety of patterns and mixing prints, techniques such as patchwork and colorblocking, and unique materials not often see on the runways, such as heavy, gathered plastic. Even traditional trends make a small appearance, such as plaid or the man-cape, but of course in a futuristic, fleeting manner.

Asymmetrical sleeves, baggy pants and long trenches and button up shirts are all spotted within the collection, in various concoctions of materials quilted together.

One thing is certain, Walter Van Bierendock’s collections are not for the faint of heart.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Franz Kennedy.

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ModeaParis: RYNSHU

Cities | Paris | 02.02.2015

Wait…is that…an alien I see? It’s too blurry to tell!

One of the great things when talking about Roswell Aliens (the theme for this RYNSHU show) is that whenever you see a photograph of one it is never really clear so as to defy disbelief or truth or proof of any identity; and so it was a lucky strike of fate when the BDMOTP photographer couldn’t make it to the RYNSHU show on the last day of Paris men’s fashion week, a Sunday, when we had to struggle to make pictures with an obscure and old handheld mobile camera, an old Blackberry Curve, which means that what you see here judging from the grainy picture above MAY actually or MAY NOT have been what really appeared on the runway – you will just have to take our word for it –, whereas according to the press release the image was supposed to be a ‘Little Grey’ alien.

Well there were actually TWO aliens that appeared – or rather ‘made an appearance’, one with a white head, the other with a more humanoid color of which you can here see our second grainy picture. They were followed in long trail by a quite extraordinary host of HUMANOIDS dressed in jacquard, lace, printed silk, cashmere, and of course leather (made from abducted animals no doubt), in a grand non-variety of colors appropriately never leaving the fourth spectrum: Grey, grey, grey, black, ink jet black, scarab, metal, and white – except for some solid gold. One would have never imagined such a close encounter of the third kind in the heart of Paris of course, but for those of you who know Paris, if you know that the location was in the middle of the Belleville district of town, you would not have been so surprised. Where else to find Grey Aliens in Paris but in Belleville? It’s dark, it’s dank, and yes, it can be scary.

What you cannot see in these grainy pictures however are the tube line outfits and the slim silhouette pants that the humans were wearing. And what was actually quite extraordinary and ‘alien’ in its own right besides the setting and the performance of the show were the two types of leather used to make the human costumes: Shironameshi is a humanoid skin tight type of leather used as bandages in the Sengoku era of Japan; Kurozan is painted lacquer by hand brush on top of this humanoid skin; together they can form remarkable outfits. RYNSHU, this designer, is not kidding for when he means alien it is alien. He loves the eccentric to the extent that it has become the signature. Zippers on buttonholes? Check. Skin-tight leathers and lacquers? Check. Aliens? Double check.

Image Credit XEX Blog

As the show’s theme of Riddick-lacquered humanoids lead by (grey) aliens slowly paraded through the dark in front of us we realized that the press release had not been kidding: This show was supposed to be about SPACE (sic), BLACK HOLES (surely felt like we had arrived in one), and boundless ENERGY, captured in the show’s hallmark item – the famous theorem by Albert Einstein: E = mc square. Perhaps that this explains why there were TWO aliens in squared and checkered outfits, and not just one. But perhaps not. And perhaps that this close encounter on a humid Paris Sunday in winter was really never meant to be and that somehow we had found ourselves in a quantum time lapse. Frankly, everything looked a little bit unreal, and not just grainy. Not surreal, as is usual in Paris. But unreal. Two Aliens in cashmere outfits that looked like they could have been made in Italy by Cantarelli. A host of lacquered humanoids in style as omen forbidding & foreboding, like something out of the Chronicles of Riddick which appears right after the two suns have set (you know the drill). Dark space in the backstage mirrors. Radiation goggles not optional.

Posted by Sandro Joo.

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ModeaParis: Carven

Cities | Paris | 01.02.2015

BDMOTP is in Paris during fashion week at a showroom on St Germain right behind the famous eponymous church to visit ModeaParis: Carven, a brand resurrected from the past, first as a woman’s brand, and then more recently as a new brand for men, and it seems as if this simple double-syllabled brand name as well as the retro font of the name itself, conspire to introduce to us this classy & marvelous 80’s retro collection – you know, the time of Disco, the Bee Gees, John Travolta & Olivia Newton John, but then without all the hoopla and the pop culture – a time of sobering plain colors (mustard, jet black, carnelian red), plain patterns (stripes, squares), simple and plain forms (wide peak lapels, elongated ribbed turtlenecks, slim trousers), and that ubiquitous yet subversive item which managed to define an entire decade with a single stroke of sartorial genius: Tight leather (disco) dress pants for men (here on display in the color mustard no less)! A crime against fashion never to be repeated.

Small wonder then that when the decade was over that people tried to put the lid on it as soon as possible, but when you closely look at the style of the font of the letters in the word Carven above, what comes to mind again and again is not only the simplicity, the functionality, and the plainness of the decade, but also its inimitable style: For this is the time when the first ‘urban’ of the seventies is moving toward the ‘cosmopolitan’ of the eighties, and in the details of the collection we see embroidered and printed thus on the sweaters and the shirts the simple motifs of the very first global tech icons – cassette tape recorder players, old TV sets, and of course this great grandfather of the iPod, the Sony Walkman.

For those of you not old enough to remember when navy blue still looked like grey, when brown was mustard, and when carmine or crimson was still carnelian, when your shawl lapel had a peak, your pants were tight whether short or long, and when stale-looking longer or well-combed hair was not a crime (yes people used to carry combs as strange as that may sound today), and when people were not yet defined by their luxury accessories or their technological gadgets, there DID exist among us a real neo-urban romanticism, aye a longing even today still, for the simplicity and simple functionality of life the way it was back in the 80’s.

A Carven Press image

And Carven hits this feeling & concept right on the nail with their sleek new menswear collection: Brilliantly retro for a new age and a new century the recent past has all of a sudden become distant yet present in its style when we watch the carefully thought out Carven tailoring & design here behind the old church of St Germain. Retro materials like soft wools, mohair, and alpaca – lines and stripes out of sync – the softer faded colors, the lack of spectrum – the accentuated lengths of the coats and the colors and the sleeves – and aye, those pants, those very tight pants – those shockingly very tight leather pants – for men, the ones you don’t take home to mother – because they were supposed to have died with Rick James those pants (look it up) – or so BDMOTP thought, until we discovered this marvelous eighties retro collection in full color, in slim fit, and in full leather gear.

Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Franz Kennedy.

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Diego Vanassibara Footwear

Cities | London | 30.01.2015

We were able to yet again see the unique and innovative footwear from architectural and fashion genius Diego Vanassibara in his new AW15 collection The Tornado.

As one may expect from the title of the collection, the colors and lines are all inspired by the movement and intensity of the such a weather disaster. Flashes of yellow and silver brightness come to us as the lightening in the form of zippers, and raindrops in the form of embroidered details. The entire collection is marked with deliberate, accurate style.

That being said, not only are the shoes beautifully hand-crafted and impeccably designed, they were created to weather the conditions of icey, rainy, wintery weather, so don’t be alarmed if your Diego kicks last through the next tornado thanks to their heavy soles and waterproof leather.

Let’s not forget Diego’s signature wood panels, which come each season in a new, original form, along the sides or tops of the eclectic designs. He never ceases to amaze, each new season pleasantly surprising with a vibrant, elegant collection, one which could easily encompass a variety of men and personal tastes.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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MF Show Madrid: McGregor

Cities | Madrid | 29.01.2015

At first, it seems I’m strolling along the Yale or Princeton campus, sweater casually strung around my shoulders, waiting for fall’s first snowfall, soundtracks from David Bowie whispering in my head as I amble to class.

But no, I’m actually just sitting a the Teatro Circo, a theatre in Madrid, watching the MF Show Madrid: McGregor collection walk by me on the runway. Or are they walking to lacrosse or rugby practice?

As dapper models strut along, I’m brought back to my college years, with that quintessential East Coast prep vibe, featuring stripes and plaids, puffy winter coats, snow boots, even a letterman jacket. Snaps red pop the collection, and navy as well, keeping with that Ivy League vibe. Cuffed pants, casual sneakers and beanie ski hats all contribute to youthful flashbacks of “the good ‘ol days.”

Slowly the collection morphs from more casual sportswear campus “bro” designs into sophisticated “my first job in New York City” wear. Button up cardigans, bowties and suits with long over coats are all reminiscent to a dandy London socialites or business man executives, with just an edge of elegance and prep.

If only the average male walking the streets of Madrid could look this sharp, if only. I truly don’t see why they can’t, especially with the onset of snowy, winter weather–perhaps some of those duck boots will come in handy soon.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Ermanno Scervino

Cities | Milan | 28.01.2015

Shearling and wool are coming to us from all angles for Autumn/Winter 2015, and Ermanno Scervino is not exempt. This 70’s trend has been a major hit on the runways for the coming season, not just in Milan but in London as well, and of course we await to see if the trend carries through Paris and New York, which I suspect it will.

As usual, we see patterns with Scervino, this season in the form of plaids, florals and stripes (unfortunately, none of last season’s polka dots are spotted making a comeback). Slim-fit pants are all the rage and knitwear continues trekking on through 2015-16.

Mixing prints, such as stripes, with heathered knitwear and tweed is another trend spotted for the coming winter, and Scervino certainly does it right, with muted colors, among pops of oxblood and navy. Fur colors and the addition of volume is something the slimmer man will appreciate (a shearling coat can’t help but add some sizeable excess) and green and oxblood velvet loafers complete the elegant looks. Striped socks peek out from the slim, short trouser look, mixing right along with the other prints and patterns. A nice touch, if you will. And I will.

Although Scervino embarks in the trend route this season, his clothes still give off the air of Italian elegance and style one always expects for the “Uomo Italiano”.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Harmont & Blaine

Cities | Milan | 27.01.2015

It’s very late in the day on day three at Milan fashion week and we are catching a glimpse at the standing showroom models of Harmont & Blaine, an informal menswear company from Naples, Italy. For those of you who don’t already know the brand H & B makes high-end casual menswear for the cosmopolitan man who loves colours, and who loves well-made premium quality clothing. Collections are themed around the Mediterranean lifestyle, and Harmont & Blaine is well known for its small Dachshund logo.The company has 500 employees and 60 stores in Italy. Seventy stores exist outside Italy in some of the following locations: Prague, Moscow, Mexico City, Cartagena, Milan, Miami, Doha, Dubai and Santo Domingo. This casual men’s – and outerwear is fit for both work AND weekend.

We study the FW 15/16 collection during the presentation and read that the press release states that the collection is themed ‘a kaleidoscope of sounds, colours, scents, and cultures.’ And indeed for a winter collection this show is particularly vibrant in its colours, even though mocha and coffee cream seem to dominate, not to speak of what the press release dubs ‘yellow tuff’ and (BDMOTP’s favourite newly discovered colour during Milan fashion week) ‘Pompeii red’ – after the colours of the bricks of buildings in Napoli.

Frequent overlapping and interchangeability of the materials and fabrics used in the collection contribute to kaleidoscopic Mediterranean effects. The jacket padding is light. The denim is soft. You will find macro structures with micro patterns like Prince of Wales or the classic bocks in checkers. Robust yarn knit-wear is found in all jackets, coats, and trousers which will eventually give the impression of a quilt mosaic which is the motif and signature of this collection’s theme of a Mediterranean kaleidoscope. Thus you will find multicolour inlays in different types of pockets or pouches or on the inside your polo shirt. And of course the traditional Mediterranean horizontal sailor-stripe pattern is inevitably making a grand return – even in winter!

The protagonist title for this winter fashion story perhaps could be the Return of Corto Maltese (the eponymous comic book hero created by Hugo Pratt) who, long sideburns and all, always goes in casual style and Mediterranean colours sailing the seven seas while maintaining a rather diffident and phlegmatic attitude towards all the many things occurring around him. We can imagine him wearing Harmont & Blaine while finding his path, slowly sailing softly onward towards the horizon in what can only be called the grand kaleidoscope of life.

Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Milan Uomo: Au Jour Le Jour

Cities | Milan | 26.01.2015

“Pass go. Collect your Dollars.” For some people these words may make no sense at all, but for those enthusiasts of board games, this can only mean one thing: it’s Monopoly time!

This game, devised in 1935 by Charles Darrow, has inspired “au jour le jour” in the creation of the next A/W collection, which not only brings to our memories those endless evenings fighting for our properties but also some reminiscences of pop art in all its forms.

It is definitely the brand’s chic and fun spirit what creates a combination of high-tech and tailored fabrics that scream out loud: don’t paint it black, go for prints. That’s the main reason why graphics become the main protagonists, including question marks, toy cars and light bulbs, recreating the classic board game’s icons. The result is a splash of color and patterns that builds up a style somewhere beyond sixties’ rockabilly.

Materials also play an important role in this game, including thread embroidered denim, Prince of Wales and quilted coats, Vichy prints and wool or cow-print fur creating a patchwork effect in jackets and coats. This colorful range of graphics joins stylized figures and long vests in sand, black and pastel colors alongside with silk or poplin shirts emblazoned with ruffles. Turtleneck sweaters have their own place under next season’s must-have denim with sheepskin jackets. And it must be said, the supercool and most adventurous will pair these with some glam glittered shoes.

So channel your inner player, gather around the board, roll the dice and be prepared to collect your outfit. Are you ready to play?