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Lucas Balboa at MFShow Madrid

Cities | Madrid | 08.02.2016

Lucas Balboa at MFShow Madrid blew us all away. Starting off the show with British bells chiming, visions of London fog dancing in our heads, the first pre-war pageboy look walked the runway and immediately turned heads. The Balboa collection is for the most gentlemanly of all gentleman.

Going for vintage look looks can tough, but Balboa pulled it off with grace. Capes, hats, blanket-shawls…all of these dapper Savile Row-inspired fashions were decidely on point, and amazingly enough, came from a Canary Islands-based designer, a solid five-hour flight from London. Whereas the inspiration lay in the past, the looks were still modern, as sassy models strutted the runway with funky jewelry (from innovative designer Jesus de Miguel) and deep stares.

Oversize bowties and glasses accessorized the collection, and hats in every shape, color and form were spotted as well. Three-piece suits, tweed, herringbone and modern printed shiny blazers wowed the crowds. Rich oxbloods and warm browns made us crave autumn 2016 already…”is it here yet?” Refined and classic, get your hands on a Balboa piece somehow, someway.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Fox Haus at MFShow Madrid

Cities | Madrid | 08.02.2016

Fox Haus at MFShow Madrid was light and airy, and actually gave us more of a spring feel rather than autumn. However, pajamas are needed in every season, and these comfortable, relaxed designs would are a great way for gentleman to be fashionable while they lounge about the house or sleep.

Linen button-ups were paired with boxer shorts for an interesting combo. Robes and floaty pajama pants with ties walked the runway, and we saw various kitschy prints as well. Grey seems to be the color of choice for sleepwear this fall, and it works in the form of robes, boxer shorts, relaxed fit pajama pants and comfy shirts. The concept of layering a robe over a button up, collared shirt seems to be a new one in the world of sleepwear, and I suppose we’ll soon see if this style becomes the norm. It seems like as of late the lines between activewear, sleepwear and daywear have blended, and one may predict we’ll soon be seeing more of this for men. In any case, pick up some sleepwear from Fox Haus this fall.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Thinking MU at MFShow Madrid

Cities | Madrid | 07.02.2016

Thinking MU at MFShow Madrid started off with an interesting concept: men actually getting dressed on the runway. Various shirts, scarves and bags were tossed about the runway and the models picked up shirts as the strutted down the catwalk and put them on. The concept was legit: real men, wearing real clothes. Obviously the line is focused on casual separates and boxers, clothes you’d where around the house or on the weekends.

However, thanks to Thinking Mu, men can still look stylish while relaxing. Comfortable cotton boxer shorts paired with loose button ups or fun t-shirts or sweatshirts with funky words and sayings give the line a playful and happy vibe. Plus, all the cotton used in the designs is organic–and even the tags are made from specialty recycled paper, so you can feel comfy, look great and save the planet in just one go.

BDMOTP favorite: green sweatshirt with the word VOYEUR spelled across the front

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Garcia at MFShow Men Madrid

Cities | Madrid | 06.02.2016

BDMOTP is currently hanging between NYFW Men, Copenhagen Fashion Week and MFShow Men, a hefty commitment but thanks to our worldly presence, we’ve been able to make it to all three fabulous fashion events. Here in Madrid, temps are mild but fashion is at all time high, and Madrid is not far behind the times when it comes to the hottest looks for AW16/17.

Garcia Madrid was a vibrant surprise for BDMOTP. Featuring a number of dapper suits and overcoats, there will be a world of color available for gentlemen this fall at Garcia. The show started off with some beige tones plus some beautiful fall shades like oxblood and evergreen, later incorporating shades of blue and purple. Suits walked the runway, each with some funky lines and styling to create that added bit of detailing. Why not make it an interesting fall after all? A little craziness was thrown in with some sequined and gold embellished blazers, even chains hanging from the sleeves for the final look closing the show.

Garcia, following the likes of DSquared and many other well-known fashion brands has dived into adding bling to their more subtle suits and blazers, and well, we love it. BDMOTP can’t wait to see what else Garcia brings for the coming seasons!

Post and photos by Lori Zaino.

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Agnes B at Paris Fashion Week Homme

Cities | Paris | 29.01.2016

Je n’ai pas eu le cœur de présenter une mode fantaisiste, ludique, cocasse… mais plutôt des vêtements simples, élégants, sobres, comme nous essayons tous de l’être aujourd’hui, dans notre vie quotidienne de parisien

I did not have the heart to present a superficial, playful, and funny collection… but rather simple, elegant and sober clothes, the way we are all trying to be today in our Parisian daily life.

(signed Agnès B in the program notes from the show, thereby becoming the one designer at Paris Fashion Week Homme to make reference to the terrorist attacks on Paris back in November both in word as well as in her creations)

That 20’s milkman look (notice the pencil behind the ear)

By far the best show we covered during Paris fashion week, this show was an homage to France and to style for men per se as we know it from the sober and distant past. It has a New York or Chicago feel from the twenties and the thirties where you expect a newspaper boy with a Gatsby casquette to appear in order to sell a freshly printed Tribune to a man who looks like Dick Tracy or, hey, why not Dillinger. It breathes class, distinction, quality, character and timelessness.

Whoever said that best of man’s fashion was to be found in Milan? For if this is the future of menswear in France, this return to the sober past of functionality and style will herald a new era in style pour homme: The milkman, the newspaper boy, the accountant, the lawyer, the scholar, the sailor, aye, the journalist – functional all in character, and impeccably dressed by Agnès B. Dandies please not apply.

The idea was always that mode pour homme in France should always come as chic – like, let’s say, as in Givenchy, or Saint Laurent. But now here comes Agnès B with a serious challenge to the global pre-conception that good times will last forever and that we are always entitled to our chic and our success. No, indeed we are not, and Agnès B, either willfully or intuitively, brings us back down to earth with the most functional, practical and most basic of styles for men. The style of the art of functionality and character from the men of yore who knew where was their place and position in society, and what was expected from them. A style for men who do not aspire too much. Or want too much. For men who like to stay calm and keep things simple but classy. This is the functionality and sobriety of a style which can only be compared to that what people must have lived in London in the forties during the Blitz.

And then on a separate and final note in the collection on the runway Agnès B suddenly makes an homage to La France by allowing for a cameo appearance of traditional French dress during revolutionary times. You will be able to find three pictures in the slideshow below.

Vive la résistance!

Posted by Sandro and photos by Mous.

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Songzio at Paris Fashion Week Homme

Cities | London | 29.01.2016

There is something seriously dark and brooding about the Songzio shows, but also something seriously stylish and beautiful. Comes to mind the film cult classic called Interview With the Vampire, to give you somewhat of an impression. And aye, of course the setting of such a show would need to be appropriate as indeed throughout cosmopolitan centers in the world it seems that abandoned industrial railway, railroad, and railyard emplacements serve as the prime real estate and venue, and as the perfect backdrop for fashion shows the world over – if not for the urban exclusivity of it all, then perhaps for an ambiance that today’s buildings can no longer convey: Red bricks and steel in a show called Vermillon.

It’s that sulfuric red, deep down red sometimes called scarlet by mistake, but which in essence is nothing less but cinnabar, the elusive metal of yore, which, in English, since the year 1289 is called Vermilion. In India, where the color is much used in buildings and clothes, it is called Sindoor.

So sir Zio Song, designer extraordinaire from Korea, and Governor of the Asian Couture Foundation, knows of course precisely what is he doing, and precisely what ambiance to create. Because here we find a grand old master in the sartorial arts. The dark brooding in shades of black set on Vampire Red and then some only work because the cuts and designs are traditional and those of high class. This is high sartorial art. And in the process lamb leathers and oil paints are used, which are then put together in unison with both synthetic and natural fibers. That the results are quite stunning and memorable you will see from our slideshow below.

Perhaps that we need more urban abandoned railyard warehouses made from cinnabar bricks in this world so that Songzio can raise yet more beautiful vampires from the dead.

For it’s a pleasure!

Posted by Sandro and photos from the Songzio press.

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Lamborghini Launches New Menswear Line

Cities | Florence | 28.01.2016

What is a man’s ultimate accessory? This would be debatable under the time, place and circumstances no doubt, but many people would say, simply – a car. A car today is what a horse used to be – as without it a real man may not be considered as such by some. And of all cars we know it may be that only Lamborghini as a brand ranks above Ferrari in status, power, and reach.

And because with special accessories always comes the responsibility of nice clothes and good style, if not good taste, we should not fail to mention that Lamborghini has released a product line of high-end clothing recently of which here you will find a short review.

The Collezione Lamborghini was first launched and presented at the Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence earlier this month, and well, it’s fantastic.

The Collezione Automobili Lamborghini will have three different clothing lines:

Classic (made in collaboration with d’Avenza)

Classic & sartorial.

Casual (running shoes in collaboration with Mizuno from Japan)

Casual & Sporty.

Squadra Corse (this is the technical wear part of the collections, ‘squadra’ of course referring to the racing team)

Technical racing wear.

In addition there will be a fragrance line (L1, L2, L3, L4) as well as a luxury carbon fiber luggage collection available, both also made and produced in collaboration with other exclusive and well-known brands.

Here is where you can go in person to find Lamborghini clothes and accessories:

Sant’Agata Bolognese (Lamborghini Boutiques)
Dubai (Dubai Mall; Galeries Lafayette; House of Fraser)
Taipei (Bellavita Shopping Mall)
Bangkok (Siam Paragon, The Emporium)
Pattaya City (Central Festival Pattaya)
Abu Dhabi (House of Fraser)

Posted by Sandro and photos from Lamborghini.

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White Mountaineering at Paris Fashion Week Homme

Cities | Paris | 28.01.2016

We were not familiar with White Mountaineering so we like to introduce the brand by a quote from a recent interview with a fashion magazine by White Mountaineering designer Yosuke Aizawa from Japan which will tell you a lot about what you need to know in order to get this brand:

“I like to snowboard and when I snowboard I want to look good.”

Indeed White Mountaineering can be said to be making what is called ‘technical outerwear’ and the designer’s roots in loving outerwear and outdoor street wear comes part from growing up in the city while always going camping and exploring outdoors, which when you combine the two comes to stand for urban outdoor street wear, especially when you also must know that White Mountaineering by now is pretty famous for its collaboration with Adidas in making some super cool designer sports shoes these days (only three pairs per collection exists and each pair holds the name White Mountaineering & Adidas together in the logo).

As we mentioned earlier during Paris FW, those type of sporty super cool street designer shoes-slash-sneakers are one of the hottest items on the man’s fashion market of the young and the hip today, and the models on the runway at the Palais de Tokyo here in Paris are wearing the latest items in this genre of collection as proof (although not the Adidas ones).

Thus the brief press release AW16/17 calls the White Mountaineering collection urban outdoor work wear which in a way is a contradiction in terms as to the word ‘urban’ because the models are parading all types of lumber jackets, wood logger coats, and Cherokee pattern inspired parkas, sweaters, and blanket-capes, even hoodies, which is a rather new twist on what the urban dictionary would purport to hold dear as to what is outdoor style or fashion.

But perhaps that we should look it in this way, that when you take all those outdoorsy motifs, designs, and patterns from the mountains, the rivers, and the lakes, and you put them on a local skateboard gang, then you will have created a new urban style, a new urban wave: Folks, in one sentence, White Mountaineering is Shaun White coming down from the ski slopes and the mountains and turning into Danny Way, street style and all, on super cool Adidas Hip Hop White Mountaineering footwear.

So come on now, you skaters and other young urban pioneers and explorers – you are too sexy, too sexy for your sweater, and too sexy for your sporty shoes …

Posted by Sandro and photos by Monika Majewska.

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Carven at Paris Fashion Week Homme

Cities | Paris | 27.01.2016

At BDMOTP we are great lovers of the Carven brand – this is the third time we are writing a cover – because of its classic retro early eighties look which somehow perfectly seems to blend in with the concept of what today would urban chic, le chic urbain in French. Back in the eighties fashion was fashion and mode was mode and it was an exclusive domain in which styles dwelt for one season or perhaps half a decade and what you bought was what you wore for that winter, and the next, whereas today times change so much and so fast and so unpredictably in styles and fashions, that it comes as a sigh of relief to find a brand which will always offer that classic retro look, that Carven look, that undeniable look from the early eighties, when the information age was still a sci-fi illusion far away in some dark films. And so Carven fills this modern need, not of thrills and frills, but of classic elegance and style for men in winter who are not so much trying to be super cool or successful, but for men who like to live well and comfortably in a stylish urban but discrete fashion. You can call it handsome, distinct, discrete, elegant, and urban.

Thus Barnabé Hardy succeeded again in bringing us an AW 16/17 collection which you are going to love. And we are proud to be able to introduce it by means of this article.

The Carven winter wear includes the traditional sweaters of old, the classic scarfs and the different types of necks suitable for winter (funnel and turtle), but with the magic Carven signature that the colors are not just winter grey but hark back to the pastels and colored shades of the eighties. This gives the collection a look recognizable by connaisseurs only. We see the duffle coat (so eighties), the parka, the windbreaker, the bomber jacket, and also the blouson in fabrics of tweed, terry, crazed nylon, wool and corduroy (so eighties), stitched together by flocking, embroidery, knitting, and weaving. Indeed, the perfect retro look must be from the eighties because it is such a hidden and forgotten decade.

A special mention goes out to Carven’s instant-cult-classic hybrid sport shoe logo sneakers which could be cited in the brochures of a museum of post-modern art. You see a lot of brands trying to break into that urban pop art shoe-slash-sneaker market but no brand succeeds as wonderfully as Carven. And we think it is because they are discrete and private, which brings me to my final but important point that not all things which are popular in fashion are also necessarily public or vulgar. Indeed some pop fashion is rather very private, precisely because it is also art.

Posted by Sandro and photos from the Carven press office.

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Cifonelli at Paris Fashion Week Homme

Cities | Paris | 26.01.2016

At first glance, the Cifonelli ready-to-wear AW 16/17 line is a modern, elegant collection of suits for a high-end gentleman. The brand, however, actually has deep historical roots as a family-owned bespoke suit business. When you take a closer look at the AW16/17 collection, the details are there. The bespoke, hand-designed sleeves, the attention to detail, the rich fabrics and the styling that is clearly the result of many, many years studying gentleman and their individual suiting needs. Cifonelli even created suits for the iconic fashion house Hermes!

The collection for the coming season is on point. Patterns like plaids and window panes cover the suits, and the season is right up to trend with the suede jacket with shearling collar. A crushed velvet suit jacket paired with silk bowtie gives men a luxe option for evening wear. Touches like hats and overcoats complete the looks and pull them together.

The combination of the Italian styles with that impeccable British tailoring make for a suit any man would want to sport.