London Collections Men: huntergather

Cities |  London | 
The huntergather collection.

The huntergather collection.

The Autumn/Winter 2014-15 collection at huntergather here at London Collections Men was futuristic, modern and trendy. Appropriately titled “Neon Noir”, the punkish Pollack color pops and prints are fun, and the items have hints of details, splashes of patterns and of course, a pop of neon color. The details were key, small star studs on the collar of a jacket, the extra zipper thrown in, a graffiti pocket square,the word “rebel” sewn into a jacket. These looks are casual and contemporary, and can be worn for a night out on the town or a weekend jaunt away with friends. I thought the more basic looks, with just a splash of detailing were the most refined and would best suit a “Best Dressed Man”. And of course, you can never go wrong with leather.

BDMOTP Favorite: suits with safety pin closure

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections Men: Gieves & Hawkes

Cities |  London | 

Military Precision was the name of the Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Gieves & Hawkes collection. And precise it was. This collection was everything a Best Dressed Man on the Planet could and would wear. Using military colors such as olive, grey, navy and brown, the collection somehow united a balance of military and British traditional Savile Row wear while still being current and contemporary. And everything of course was impeccably tailored. As I chatted with some people at Gieves & Hawkes, I realized that the company was over 200 years old and family created, and is actually one of the oldest bespoke tailoring companies in the world. No wonder they hit this collection dead on-they’ve been at it for awhile now!

A key point of this collection was the accessories. Make sure to notice the round sunglasses, bowties, shoe styles, bags and leather gloves. In fact, a full eyewear collection is actually presented too.

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These looks make for the perfect gentleman. BDMOTP favorites: Army green coat, round sunglasses, anything and everything plaid.

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections Men: Louis Leeman Paris

Cities |  London |  Paris | 

BDMOTP is back at London Collections Men for the Autumn/Winter 2014-15 designs. Fighting rain and wind, we saw amazing styles to kick everything off on Day 1, starting with Louis Leeman Paris.

Louis Leeman Paris makes handmade crafted shoes, and showed their line in the glamorous Cafe Royal Hotel. The Fall/Winter Collection was called “The Treasures of the Grand Bazaar” and was aptly named and presented, swathed in a beautiful room set with tree branches and gold fixtures. The richness of the colors and jewels decorating the shoes certainly seemed to emulate the Byzantium era, a period of opulence and luxury. The shoes incorporated trends such as the gold toe box and hand embroidery.

This regal shoe collection is for a confident man who would like to have a little extra flair or some blinge added onto his footwear! These shoes would absolutely brighten up any basic outfit.

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Agi and Sam

Cities |  Hong Kong |  London |  Los Angeles |  Singapore | 

It’s the combination of sharp tailoring with quirky and vibrant prints that Agi and Sam use to create the kind of dapper eclecticism which seems most at home in London. There is absolutely no doubt that Agi and Sam is a label for the modern day gentleman with a funky personality.

An SS14 look from Agi and Sam.

An SS14 look from Agi and Sam.

Their complementary backgrounds, Agi studied fashion design, while Sam illustration, helped them to establish a bond from the moment they met in the Alexander McQueen studio. Three shows later and they were already nominated for the British Fashion Awards further holding the attention of the British Fashion Industry. Four seasons later and they are well on their way to becoming a British Institution.

Although the London fashion industry have their ears pricked, it’s thanks to their consumer awareness that has helped Agi and Sam to gain the attention of the mainstream.

Their collection “The Owls” released for Topman earlier this year, managed to successfully bring their sense of humour to the masses. While still being true to their tailoring roots, the collection has a strong focus on sportswear.

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“The Owls”-by Agi and Sam, a collection for Top Man.

This consumer awareness is also present in the casting of their AW13 as well as their recent SS14 show. While watching the varied men and boys walking down the catwalk, each outfit became more than just a trend; Agi and Sam developed characters, demonstrating the ability to suit anyone with the right attitude and the sense of humour. Robert Johnson, associate editor of GQ points out, “They’re good at making clothes that people want to wear, as well as knowing what makes a good picture, which is the ultimate catwalk success.”

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One of the simpler outfits of the SS14 collection is this turquoise Blazer. Simple yet statement with a slender forgiving cut.

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Another great outfit from SS14 is their dark printed suit. It remains subtle because of the monochromatic pallet but the detail of the print makes an exciting and unique change to an otherwise classic look.

Agi and Sam dark printed suit.

Agi and Sam dark printed suit.

Agi and Sam are currently stocked in Liberty, Harvey Nichols, Mr Porter, Machine-A and Topman within the UK but are also available internationally in Nightvision Singapore, D-Mop in Hong Kong, The Foundary in Los Angelas and Amna in Saudi.

Posted by Emma Pulbrook.

 

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Lux and Noah

Cities |  London | 

With Lux and Noah, “And” is the word.

An integral part of any creative process often involves collaboration.

Two London creatives never shy of collaborating and not limiting their creative abilities to the fashion industry, are Lux and Noah. They commonly work with British musicians and bands creating artwork, clothing as well as stage projections and lighting composing a dialogue between musician and designer, merging the boundaries between the two roles.

Lux and Noah’s ethical conscience also sets a fine example to other brands working within the occasionally absent-minded fashion industry. As Noah points out, “…we are always sidetracked by the boring dull aesthetics that usually apply when something is sustainable, which is where we want to help change Society’s perception.”

With a focus on quality and maintaining a strong love of fashion, these boys set out not only to source, but also produce all of their clothing sustainably in the UK.

Lux and Noah’s most recent collaboration was with with fellow Londoner, Gold Panda, an electronic producer and performer.
Released on the 30th of September the capsule collection titled LNGP, gives a nod to sports wear, aiming to fit Gold Pandas active, jet-setting lifestyle through lightweight, low maintenance clothing. By combining comfort while maintaining the luxury aesthetic so typical with the Lux and Noah vision, they have created something which is appropriate in any wardrobe. It’s a collection for the urban nomad.

The urban jungle environment, referenced through severe black lines and masculine silhouettes, fasten with otherwise contrasting floral prints and pastels creating a new dialogue within the collection. LNGP successfully draws upon the rich and vibrant eclecticism that interests and inspires Gold Panda.
Emma Lux and Noah
One of my favorite pieces from the collection is the reversible bomber jacket. The simple silhouette allows it to transcend any occasion yet the focus on the floral print adds more character to any outfit. Easy to throw over jeans and a t-shirt, the silk crepe fabric makes it a piece to rival the comfort of your pajamas.
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Lux and Noah’s LNGP capsule collection is only available for Gold Panda at present.

Posted by Emma Pulbrook

Photo Credits:

Photographer: Roberta Schmidt
Stylist: Alessandra Arzarni
MUA: Sabina
Accessories: CUTLER&GROSS, Loake, New Balance

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YashkaThor: The Philosopher’s Hat

Cities |  London |  Moscow | 

The future of fashion is now. This was the clear message at the YashkaThor party at Sketch, London, where an uber-stylish crowd in extravagant headwear enjoyed a variety of entertainment such as edible pyramids, a sitar player performance and reading of philosophical parable.

A scene from the YashkaThor hat party

A scene from the YashkaThor hat party

Two men in hats at YashkaThor party

A model and designer enjoying the YashkaThor party

YashkaThor is a hat brand, which is devoted to creating a radical luxury. It was founded by two philosophy students who decided to make hats, as they are objects which can interact and play with people on different levels.

Even though YashkaThor hats will remind you of 60th’s riding hats, national Chinese or dervish hats, they are very unique. The designers managed to invent completely new hat shapes. There are now twelve very special and minimalistic, but also very pure and powerful hats in their collection.

Each of the 12 hats has it’s own philosophical meaning, aura and energy. YashkaThor believe that, “hats have transformative powers that affect the wearer’s mood, appearance and experiences”.

All the hats are made of spectacular rabbit fur material, each one is hand molded and sewn with sheepskin napa leather and hand painted with 23.5 carat gold, which is part of the brand’s recognizability, along with the very simple and clear forms. It’s the most exclusive hat you can buy in London at the moment!

The Draaoe Hat

The Draaoe Hat

The Gilgamesh Hat

The Gilgamesh Hat

The Leonard Hat

The Leonard Hat

The Prinn Hat

The Prinn Hat

YashkaThor duet describe their own view of the brand-concept:

“We think that when one places a luxurious hat onto one’s head, you prime yourself for luxurious thoughts and luxurious living. By luxury we mean the ability to crown every moment. YashkaThor hats are for people who put a high value onto living consciously.“

Philosophy of YashkaThor comes through everything they do, no matter whether it’s a their wonderful hats, designer’s surrealistic outfits or reading of pseudo-mythic story of Kazakh on their party. Everywhere you’re trying to find a hidden sense and allegory; it’s a kind of a very clever riddle posing. The pair explain how they work:

“We start the day with meditation and sing out the YashkaThor mantra. Then we structure out our day and create hats. The life of the philosopher is often seen as one of contemplation, and after sitting and looking at the mountains we decided to climb one and well, the mountain was a hat.”

One of guests shared his feeling about wearing a YashkaThor hat: “ It makes you feel  taller, it makes you aware of your whole body. The whole energy and aura, which comes with the hat makes you feel more beautiful and you look more beautiful to the outside world.  I think you can connect with a lot of interesting people with these hats. You will only know what I’m talking about, when you wear one of these hats for a day through London and feel how people look at you differently and ask where you’ve gotten the hat. “

So, wearing YashkaThor hat is a serious fashion and life statement. A whole new philosophy. It’s for those who are not afraid to stand out from the crowd and want to try new.

You can purchase a YashkaThor hat at their atelier in London or at one of the two boutiques that stock YashkaThor in Moscow.

A YashkaThor Hat

A YashkaThor Hat

A YashkaThor Hat

Posted By Yulia Gromova

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London Collections Men: Diego Vanassibara

Cities |  London |  Sao Paulo | 

This is the second time BDMOTP has visited with Brazilian designer Diego Vanassibara and seen his fabulous shoe collections.  Diego´s collection during the January London Collections: Men for FW 2013 was truly exquisite and we absolute couldn´t wait to see what Diego would come up with this season.

As predicted, we were not disappointed.  For SS14, Diego has introduced a new color palette that includes a light blue, a beige and a grey, and an army green color in addition to the more basic tones of black and brown.  There is nothing basic about these shoes, however, they are original and funky and fun while still being classic and elegant.

Not to mention Diego and his team are passionate about the shoes.  As I watched Diego explain his vision behind the designs, I could truly see he loves designing and creating and his passion shows in the craftmanship of the shoes themselves. The shoes, in addition to having Diego´s signature wood panels, have some movement in the design so your foot can move and breathe along with the shoe.  The color scheme was inspired by the idea of travelling to Rio de Janiero, Brasil, this of course being the blue and beige of the sea and sand.  Then a classy navy blue and grey for the next destination of Singapore and a more intense black to represent one final trip to Tokyo.

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Diego V (3)

Diego V (1)

Diego V (4)Finally, BDMOTP wanted to know if there was a female shoe line in the worlds.  He noted it´s not out of the question for the future to have a separate line for women.  However, for now, females around the world can rejoice because he now makes his men´s shoes as small as a men´s US size 5 so women can wear them! In future lines he will even start from a men´s size 3 so women with tiny feet can wear his strong, independent, masculine shoes.

Posted By: Lori

Photos By: Yulia Gromova

 

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POSTED IN | Cities, London, Sao Paulo
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Pitti Uomo Florence: Day 2

Cities |  London |  Milan |  Moscow |  New York |  Other | 

Day 2 of Pitti Uomo in Florence was just as hot and just as rewarding as Day 1.  We were able to see some more great brands and some of our favorites were Angelo Galasso, Broska, and Pasotti.  Each brand is extremely different and features something unique and special.  Angelo Galasso features clothes, shoes and accessories, Broska carries scarves and pocket squares, and Pasotti designs umbrellas, shoe horns and canes.

Angelo Galasso

Angelo Galasso is a high end, luxury brand that has shops in New York, Moscow, Milan and London.  This season the collection has a safari theme and includes some very sharp shoes and jackets, among other things.  Galasso is also known for a special touch/detail on his shirts.  On the sleeve, he allows for a small open space in order to have your watch face peek through. No more having to push up your sleeve to see the time!  Genius!

BDMOTP Favorites: Blue Shoes

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Broska

Broska is a German brand, based in Frankfurt, that creates original pocket squares and scarves.  Some of the pocket squares have up to 4 different patterns per square.

BDMOTP favorite: Grey, blue and brown patterned scarf

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 Pasotti

Pasotti is an Italian brand, based near Milan, which offers umbrellas, canes and shoe horns with unique patterns and of course, funky handles decorated with silver, studs, skeletons and more.  These items would be great as gifts, especially for those difficult to shop for men!

BDMOTP favorite: The Umbrellas

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Posted By: Lori Zaino

 

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POSTED IN | Cities, London, Milan, Moscow, New York, Other
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London Collections Men: Savile Row the English Gentleman

Cities |  London | 

London Collections Men isn’t just about catwalk shows.  They also host fabulous gatherings like the The Grand Match.

The bespoke tailors of Savile row are historically the root of British fashion. Savile Row is a shopping street in London that dates back to forever. The Savile row shops and tailors sponsored the Grand Match event held at Lord´s Grounds, which is actually where cricket games are played in London. All the brands and tailors on Savile Row styled and dressed models for the event.

Over 100 outfits were shown, spread throughout the the rooms and terraces of the Lord´s Pavilion overlooking the cricket field.  Some of the participating shops and tailors include Chester Barrie, Hardy Amies, and Goster & Son.

Looks ranged from pastels, light weight wool suits, linen, flannet waistcoats with trousers, and more.

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Yulia Gromova.

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London Collections Men SS14 – Days Two and Three

Alton Barber Journal |  Cities |  Intrepid Executive |  London |  Other | 

London Collections Men SS14 – Days two and three were packed with more exhibits, presentations and runway shows.  First up was to Hunter Gather.  The HG shop felt good and the clothes chic casual.  My favorite piece was a real funky T-shirt, in an eye-catching black and white print with a mint green collar.  It would add a little color to an otherwise basic black and white ensemble.

Hunter Gather (4)

Next was the Olebar Brown presentation, with a theme that takes us to Monaco.  They offered a great line of casual wear in unique shades, Riviera Blue and Marshall Orange.  Something for the yacht owner, gran prix driver, fan and pit crew.  A merchandised line of pieces perfect for strolling Bd des Moulins or Av Atlantica for that matter.  By the way for you intrepid executives, I recommend the Design Suite with Panoramic view at the Le Meridien Hotel in Monaco.  Sweet curved rooms with “the” view.  Now back to overcast London.

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Then to the Hospital Club and spent time with Frank Phillips of  ToBeFrank, Jae Wan Park, and ESK cashmere company.

TOBEFRANK blazer with velvet lining

TOBEFRANK jacket with velvet lining

In between all of that I stopped by Victoria House to see a couple of brands that I met at this same event in January 2013.  The most exciting shoe designer Diego Vanassibara and a great accessories brand Marwood.  Both of which we have big plans for!

Alton with Diego Vanassibara´s line of shoes

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We also stopped in on the Oliver Spencer runway show.  Tailored as expected with his combinations of colors and fabrics.  My favorite piece was a navy peacoat with brown collar trim.  Very well done.

Oliver Spencer

I ended Day Two at the Marylebone Cricket Club.  The Savile Row Association put on a phenomenal event, The English Gentleman, showcasing what seemed to be 100 ensembles designed and produced by Savile Row shops.  Difficult to pick just one, but one of my favorites was by Edward Sexton.  It was a pistachio sports jacket worn with White Oxford Bags, and shoes by Manolo Blahnik.   You can read more about the event in our post on The Savile Grand Match.  

Savile Row (11)

On Day Three we had time for one show before taking off for Florence.  The James Long runway  show was a splash of color.  Wonderful separates with sublimated horizontal print patterns.  Splashes of color for a season.

James Long

For more on these designers, visit our Day 2 runway show post and our Day 2 presentation post.  

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