London Collections Men: Marwood

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Marwood was another unique designer we saw in the showrooms at London Collections Men. Marwood creates accessories for men, more specifically, ties, bowties, pocket squares, scarves and more. For the Autumn/Winter 201-15 season they even came out with some wonderful travel items such as an eyemask and warm scarf/wrap that could double as a blanket.

With their first collection launching quite recently in just 2011, Marwood is a relatively new designer but has gotten the hang of things fast! Their items are designed for men but women also appreciate a lot of their items, especially their signature lace looks.

This season Marwood has collaborated with Alice Made This, who creates precision metal cufflinks. With a Marwood bowtie and a pair of Alice Made This cufflinks, any regular young lad can be morphed into a Best Dressed Man.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections Men: Diego Vanassibara

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London Collections Men isn’t just about catwalks and presentations, it also has some showrooms which host up and coming newer designers and presents them to the world. One I am always excited to catch is Diego Vanassibara. This is the third collection we’ve seen from him, and each time I am enthralled with what he comes up with!

For Autumn/Winter 2014-15, Diego gives us “Dynamic Jewels”.  Perhaps the collection has this name for it’s rich jewel tone colors, or perhaps because these shoes are true gems themselves!

In this collection, we see shoes (oxfords and loafers) and boots that have been updated to provide true functionality. Diego has created a lighter sole which gives more traction, however in no way shape or form sacrificing this style aspect of the shoe. We see his signature wood panels, though done in new and creative ways on the boots-this season on the side as an accent. Diego is quick to explain he has a shoe for every occasion: the office, a night out, in the studio,for planes, trains, and automobiles. And he is right, the collection fits together but also has something for everyone.

Finally, all you ladies out there rejoice because Diego now makes his men’s shoes as small as a men’s US size 3  so women with tiny feet can wear his strong, independent, masculine shoes.

BDMOTP favorites: olive green oxfords, orange boots and orange loafers.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections Men: Baartmans and Siegal

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Baartmans and Siegal created a simple yet strong Autumn/Winter 2014-15 line for London Collections Men called Stealth. This durable line was almost all black and navy (practical) and had an emphasis on outerwear. Baartmans and Siegal worked together with outerwear vendor Penfield to get the best performance and comfort, while still having the fashionable details like hidden seams, pockets and zippers and fur trim and linings. The looks featured were down jackets, reversible jackets, trench coats, mohair fisherman sweaters and more. Basically, they are trying to combine style with practicality and I think in this case, it works!

There presentation was lovely although unfortunately not very well lit, but the photos below should at least give you an idea of the style and functionality of their product.

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections Men: Christopher Shannon

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Christopher Shannon’s Autumn/Winter 2014-15 line at London Collections Men takes inspiration from the post-punk era and everyday situations like a typical PE class at school. Models walked the runway to blaring music with slicked down, wet hair and jewelry designed by Judy Blame. A sporty line at heart, nylon and knits were used, heavy with patterns and prints. Leather and vinyl also appeared and asymmetric lines were a typical theme. The man skirt also made an appearance here, and I don’t see the man skirt going away any time soon.

The looks are casual and relaxed- definitely weekend looks. This is another collection with a take on the tracksuit. This sort of sporty, 80’s but updated with a modern twist was common trend here for at London Collections Men.

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections Men: Joseph Turvey and Katie Eary

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As much as I love seeing wearable items walk the runway, there is that part of me that feels like runway shows should err on the edge of crazy, to SET the trends, and let people follow them in a more subdued way. The below designers featured looks that may not be the most wearable for our readers, but were certainly entertaining to see and can put out a new perspective on fashion. Sometimes it’s nice to step away from the uber-tailored, traditional British Savile Row looks and see something a little different.

Joseph Turvey

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The Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Joseph Turvey collection is called “Cash In”.  This season Turvey continues using his signature prints, but now with digital enhancements and hand embroidery. This collection is mainly sportswear, and for a daring man who wants to stand out.

Katie Eary

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With her collection BIPOLAR, British designer Katie Eary explores many themes: inspiration from Irvine Welsh’s novel “Fifth”, which features wickedness and corruption, juxtaposed with the innocence and happiness of American emblem Mickey Mouse, mixed with punk rock. However, we still can’t fully escape the British Savile Row, as Eary’s clothes are impeccably tailored by Savile Row garment makers. We also see here the appearance of the ever growing in popularity man skirt.

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London Collections Men: Kent and Curwen

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The Kent and Curwen runway may take the cake for the BDMOTP favorite for standout collection here at London Collections Men. I say this because not only did they have some amazing designs, the ability to mix and match jackets and accessories is endless. It’s extremely rare that I can actually say I loved EVERY look in a collection, but I think I truly did enjoy each and every garment featured here.

Inspired by British military, the jackets stood out in this collection. The Kent and Curwen accessories like the driving gloves and the bags were also beautifully crafted from perfect leather. Colors like olive green stood out, and fabrics like leather in the jackets and the bags as well. A symbol of the brand, a cricket  “Splice”-an angular shape inspired by the shape of a cricket bat is present throughout the collection.

This collection was preppy and dapper. However, if you wanted to mix and match some of the jackets or other pieces, you could edge it out a bit or really find whatever “look” you desire.

BDMOTP Favorites: the driving gloves in various colors, like teal and oxblood pictured below

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Check out several of the looks here:

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections Men: YMC

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Wearability was the name of the game for YMC’s Autumn/Winter designs at London Collections Men. And their point did come across as such: most garments seemed like things most men could wear on a daily basis, which gives me mixed emotions. In fashion shows, do we want to see wearable? Or do we want to see big, bold and innovative? I think the answer is a little of both. I do appreciate that this pieces were garments that almost any man could put on to take a stroll on a Saturday afternoon, as the collection was sporty, with a playful take on the tracksuit. Colors were basic like navy, black, and khaki, with some splashes of pattern and color. This season, YMC is also collaborating with Gunden, Walsh, or Solovair.

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections Men: Savile Row

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“Buckle Up and Button Down.” That was the theme of the Savile Row presentation, hosted at The Cabinet War Rooms here at London Collections Men. The bespoke tailors of Savile Row are historically the root of British fashion and tailoring. The Savile Row shops and tailors sponsored the event, in collaboration with St. James and The Woolmark Company.

This very “Mad Men-esque” event was extremely well done in my opinion (and I went in with VERY high expectations). Savile Row never disappoints. The Cabinet War Rooms made for a very unique venue. The history of this wartime bunker is that it sheltered Churchill and his government during the Blitz. It provided the secret underground headquarters for the core of the British government throughout the Second World War. The models were incorporated into the rooms and the venue, and it was almost like a theater event, as models were dressed to the nines in tailored Savile Row vintage attire and spoke and acted as if they were old wartime advisors. I found just the museum itself to be incredible, and of course the Savile Row garments to be beautiful, and put all together it was like a history meets fashion extravaganza experience. I didn’t actually think it would be possible to top “The Grand Match” , which was last years Savile Row event, but it certainly did!

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections Men: Duchamp

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The Autumn/Winter Duchamp designs at London Collections Men were classic and refined. The clothes were inspired by luxury lifestyles: The Jet Setting Rogue, The Artist, The Country Gent, The Alpinista and the Entertainer. It was easy to see this as many of the designs were in original “settings”-there were men dueling, playing chess, and poker. This way you could really see the clothes in action!

This collection celebrates 25 years for Duchamp. The fabrics were warm and wintery, like corduroy, wool and velvet.  Color pops of gold and blue helped the designs stand out. A plaid theme was definitely noted.

After speaking with Gianni Colarossi, almost by accident (I randomly complimented an unknown man on his blazer and he turned out to be the designer!), I began to really get a feel for the line…it helps to hear the designers speak passionately about the collection. He mentioned that the designs also have three separate vibes in mind-the “British” look, the “Italian” look and the “Scottish” look. That, combined with, the luxury lifestyles really helps to embody the collection.

BDMOTP Favorite:  blue velvet blazer.

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections Men: Nicole Farhi

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The autumn/winter 2014 Nicole Farhi collection draws upon protection and sanctuary for inspiration. It’s not the first time politics has inspired a line, as creative direction Joanna Sykes creates warm and comforting outwear in order to make men feel protected and safe in a period of recession. The clothes are snug and soft, and the coats really stood out as being key items. The tweed and plaid coats, plus the chunky knit sweaters combined the art of British tailoring while keeping the styles loose and bohemian at the same time. I also realized that all fabrics are organic, which is always a plus. In addition to the presentation here in London, we also got to see a lookbook photoshoot and touch and get a close up look at the fabrics and the designs. I think it’s easy to see why one might feel warm and protected in these lovely clothes!

BDMOTP Favorite: Chunky sweater, grey tweed coat

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Posted by Lori Zaino, photos by Paloma Canseco.

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