MBFW Tokyo: Factotum

Cities |  Tokyo | 

The Matohu collection designed by Koji Udo is all about layers, layers and layers. The designer takes his inspiration from the air, outdoor elements and landscapes.

Thinking about these concepts, the collection makes so much sense. The menswear looks, though masculine, have a lightness, a softness to them that allows them to be strong while still being beautiful. The clothes are constructed with the utmost care in design and tailoring showing both elegance and style. The line is just stylish enough to be relevant, without ever abandoning the craftmanship or beauty.

BDMOTP was particulary impressed with the jackets, especially the grey jacket look over the patterned shorts.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Natalie Rap.

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MBFW Tokyo: 5351 Les Hommes

Cities |  Tokyo | 

5351 Les Hommes by Kazuhisa Komura is all about the modern, diverse man. The SS 2016 collection starts off with a huge appearance of the hunter green color and some military prints, showing us strength and intensity. Then the looks start slowly softening by including trends like funky hats and shorter or tapered trousers. Details like hoods also give the looks a casual, futuristic vibe. Later, we see the collection shift towards whites and greys for a lighter, more 80’s inspired look including short sleeves, layers and details like metal grommets. A few models sported the age-old mullet hairstyle (don’t tell us this is coming back into style), giving the entire collection a Wayne’s Worlds grunge meets Matrix vibe. We even get a bit of  a Michael Jackson vibe thanks to a baggy, tapered striped suits and boxy 80’s shapes.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Natalie Rap.

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MBFW Tokyo: Atsushi Nakashima

Cities |  Tokyo | 

BDMOTP is back in action at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo and the first menswear show we’ve seen is Atsushi Nakashima. The Japanese designer worked alongside Jean Paul Gautlier for seven years in Paris before heading back to Tokyo in 2011 to launch his own collection.

But you won’t see any Madonna corsets coming from this Japanese prodigy. Nakashima’s AW16 collection couldn’t be more on point with what we’ve seen in the major fashion cities around the world like London, Paris and Milan. Colorblocking and geometric patterns dominate the collection, with a major emphasis on trends like the funky sneaker and turtlenecks. Both male and female models literally walked through metal hoops on the runway, a testament to Nakaskimas enduring spirit, perhaps?

The colors used for the menswear were mainly black and white with touches of red and hunter green. Metal accents were spotted throughout the collection in the form of belts and shoe adornments. Models looked sharp and serious, with slicked back hair and black, drawn out eyeliner. BDMOTP even headed backstage to get a feel for the vibe, and spotted some Maybelline makeup application in action.

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We can’t help but fall in love with some of the jackets, which could be aptly paired with slacks, jeans…pretty much any style would look great with a Nakashima jacket covering it.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Natalie Rap.

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MBFW Tokyo: IISER LOEN

Cities |  Tokyo | 

Designer Koji Tezuka is the mastermind behind IISER LOEN, a brand that walked the catwalk for just the second time at MBFW Tokyo AW 15/16. Tezuka only just began creating menswear, though he’s been working on producing womenswear for many years now.

The AW 15/16 menswear collection was right on trend. Right off the bat, we feel the hipster-esque Brooklynite understated style of it all. It’s trendy without being too “fad-like.” In fact, Tezuka has stressed that his designs convey a “new age of dandyism.” Perhaps not one set in fedoras, pocket squares and wing tips, but a more casual take on the concept of dandy-style. Using a muted color palette and chic fabrics like leather, IISER LOEN shows skinny pants with blazers and sweaters, all with cool details and patterns, amping up the hipster looks to something truly stylish. The occasional chunky eyewear and turtleneck appearance reminds us that this understated, sexy collection is right on trend.

This collection is for the man that wants to look like he “woke up like this” but really, put quite a bit of effort into his style.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from the official MBFW Tokyo website.

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MBFW Tokyo: Mr. Gentleman

Cities |  Tokyo | 

Mr. Gentleman was a light of bright sunshine at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo. The world Gentleman is defined as:

 A chivalrous, courteous, or honorable man.

Hopefully all you men out there are gentleman, but if you aren’t, you can at least dress like one with the new Mr. Gentleman collection. The collection is a delightful mix of color blocking–whites and brights combined to ring in spring. Trenches and blazers make the collection preppy and business-like, yet casual. Short suits, the vibrant color selection and the light crispness of the looks really works for spring-summer.

The brand was founded in 2012 by design duo Takeshi Osumi  Yuichi Yoshii.  The team feels their collection is wearable and basic, but with a contemporary and modern twist, turning all men into gentleman.

BDMOTP Favorite: decorative patterned blazer.

All images from “AFPBB News/JFWO/MBFWT”

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Posted by Lori Zaino and images from FPBB News/JFWO/MBFWT.

 

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MBFW Tokyo: Patchy Cake Eater

Cities |  Tokyo | 

Cue Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo, and this season there were some shining moments of menswear among the hoards of womenswear.

Patchy Cake Eater, despite the interesting name, is a subtle and elegant brand that takes inspiration from vintage and antique. Of course, a more contemporary take is then layered onto the designs, and the brand often hints reminiscence of the 80’s, everyones’ favorite fashion decade.

This season, long haired models sported long, boxy trenches and blazers (again giving us that 80’s look), button down jackets and hats. A bold neon yellow was the chosen standout color and in coat form. Short pants are a reappearing trend and white seemed to also be a distinct color of choice.

Don’t be put off by Patchy Cake Eater’s unique name, the as the designs are well-tailored,  refined and worth checking out.

All images from “AFPBB News/JFWO/MBFWT”

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Posted by Lori Zaino and images from FPBB News/JFWO/MBFWT.

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Highlights: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

Cities |  Tokyo | 

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo is no doubt one of the edgiest fashion weeks around. Even for spring collections, dark, understated, androgynous and cool can usually describe the Asian fashions showcased here.

The AW 14/15 edition of Tokyo Fashion Week was no different. Muted colors, military influence, muted greens/navy/grey and black all walked the runway. Many of the male models wore makeup and hats. You won’t see any smiles on this runway, serious and piercing is how these models roll.

Patchy Cake Eater and Mr. Gentleman (both relatively new and emerging brands) added a flair of Michael Jackson to their collections. Makeup and hats, jackets, shaggy hair and tight suits all made appearances in their collections. Eclectic touches like models playing with rubix cubes and patterned pants during the Patchy Cake Eater show gave the dark and flashing looks a glimpse of fun and intellectualism. Vintage twists and throwbacks like the Mr. Gentleman plaid blazer give this collection some attitude.

A flash of beige in an otherwise muted, dark collection from Patchy Cake Eater.

A flash of beige in an otherwise muted, dark collection from Patchy Cake Eater.

A warm coat from Patchy Cake Eater.

A warm coat from Patchy Cake Eater.

Patchy Cake Eater creates Michael Jackson replicas.

Patchy Cake Eater creates Michael Jackson replicas.

Some plaid, leather and a hat from Mr. Gentleman.

Some plaid, leather and a hat from Mr. Gentleman.

Factotem opted for emphasis on coats, and used grey as a main color. Color blocking also made an appearance in this runway show.

A short coat from Factotem.

A short coat from Factotem.

A long coat from Factoem.

A long coat from Factotem.

Finally, Cote Mer added in the typical Japanese fashion flair, shorts over leggings for men. Other trendy looks like layering and cuffs were spotted on the Cote Mer runway for AW 14/15.

A lighter from from Cote Mer, a rarity in Japanese fall fashion.

A lighter from from Cote Mer, a rarity in Japanese fall fashion.

Layering from Cote Mer.

Layering from Cote Mer.

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ATO at MB Tokyo Fashion Week

Cities |  Tokyo | 

The ATO collection was perfect for a Best Dressed Man. Featuring mainly suits and a small section of casual wear, this collection embodied the idea of a well dressed man, with a touch of Japanese style added in.

I’ve noticed that presented on the runways here in Tokyo is a very Japanese style pant that people are also wearing around the city.  The pant is rather baggy, but slightly shorter and/or cuffed. The degree of bagginess is varied, but usually it’s not a super slim trouser. This pant is a more casual look, but later paired with a suit jacket or blazer can also be dressed. Several of these were featured. I have to say I am very intrigued by the look and I think it´s a style staple for the Japanese.

The detailing on the suits also impressed me. A line sewn down the side of a pant, or a different cut, a bright belt, these were all basic looks with an extra pop. Neon pink and yellow were also used to combat the basic grey, blue and black colors. Many of the shoes also had a neon yellow or red bottom, which was fun. I also saw that the shorts suit, or shorts with blazer look, is trending here as well as in Europe and the USA.

I think a man who wears a suit or dressy look daily, but has a little freedom to spice it up would love ATO´s fabulous collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

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Né-Net at MB Tokyo Fashion Week

Cities |  Tokyo | 

I knew that the Né-Net Collection was going to be unique when I got their invitation. It showed a boy and a girl, knitted out of yarn, with a bird on top and it was  warm and inviting.

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As I entered the runway area, it was not a typical catwalk. Set up instead was a small sofa, a coat stand, a desk with a radio, and a birdcage. Throughout the show, the models walked to birds chirping and uplifting, indie music while occasionally sitting on the sofa, hanging a hat or jacket on the coat rack, or sitting down at the desk. It was almost like a small theater performance instead of a fashion show!

Anyway, back to the fashion. The Né-Net looks were preppy, casual but sharp and spiffy. The collection had a little bit of a British feel, perhaps due to the appearance of khakis, sweaters and plaid.  It featured a variety of styles, like shorts, sweaters, pants, jackets, hats etc. However no suits, the looks were primarily casual. A bit of Japanese influence is sneaked in with the appearance of a robe-like kimono. One look seemed distinctly like pajamas.  In any case, the Né-Net looks were kitschy and fun.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

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STOF at MB Fashion Week Tokyo

Cities |  Tokyo | 

STOF at MB Fashion Week Toyko was simply put, a beautiful show. The runway was lined with beautiful hanging trees and flowers, and finally I began to feel a little bit of that Japanese Zen everyone always talks about! A graceful dancer started off the show by prancing around the plants and flowers hanging down from the ceiling.

The STOF show, entitled “Votanica” voiced a distinct nature theme, in fact the designer later explained to us that he was inspired by natural things and his travels to various beautiful destinations, like India and Thailand. Although there was a huge language barrier when we met the designer, once I felt his peaceful and calm energy, I understood why the line also seemed peaceful and zen-like.

The references to the plants were quite literal, in fact, there were leaves and plants on the shirts, and even in the hair.  The whole STOF show had an “Asian Hawaiian Safari Zen” vibe to it.

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Posted by Lori Zaino

 

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