Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo is no doubt one of the edgiest fashion weeks around. Even for spring collections, dark, understated, androgynous and cool can usually describe the Asian fashions showcased here.

The AW 14/15 edition of Tokyo Fashion Week was no different. Muted colors, military influence, muted greens/navy/grey and black all walked the runway. Many of the male models wore makeup and hats. You won’t see any smiles on this runway, serious and piercing is how these models roll.

Patchy Cake Eater and Mr. Gentleman (both relatively new and emerging brands) added a flair of Michael Jackson to their collections. Makeup and hats, jackets, shaggy hair and tight suits all made appearances in their collections. Eclectic touches like models playing with rubix cubes and patterned pants during the Patchy Cake Eater show gave the dark and flashing looks a glimpse of fun and intellectualism. Vintage twists and throwbacks like the Mr. Gentleman plaid blazer give this collection some attitude.

A flash of beige in an otherwise muted, dark collection from Patchy Cake Eater.

A warm coat from Patchy Cake Eater.

Patchy Cake Eater creates Michael Jackson replicas.

Some plaid, leather and a hat from Mr. Gentleman.

Factotem opted for emphasis on coats, and used grey as a main color. Color blocking also made an appearance in this runway show.

A short coat from Factotem.

A long coat from Factotem.

Finally, Cote Mer added in the typical Japanese fashion flair, shorts over leggings for men. Other trendy looks like layering and cuffs were spotted on the Cote Mer runway for AW 14/15.

A lighter from from Cote Mer, a rarity in Japanese fall fashion.

Layering from Cote Mer.