The First Date

Cities |  London | 

Seven seconds of style that last the evening…

What can be better than the first date that flows as naturally as breathing? The timing is right, the location is superb, the conversation is stimulating and a good laugh is in place too. It all seems like the stars just align. Yes it could be true that chemistry is something that may be controlled by some higher forces we have no particular say in. However, other things can be refined and worked on. Fashion is exactly one of those things.

They say first impression takes seven seconds. Of course you have a date so there are at least few hours (hopefully) to fail or succeed. However, a good start is still a good start. So make those first seconds count. What is the primary thing that can be achieved in such a short moment? Possibly it is an impression of titivation. For instance, unwrinkled clothes. Too basic? Well strong base makes for a solid structure. Remember, your date still has plenty of time to admire the details and the ‘décor’.

I suggest we skip the debate over Smart vs. Smart- casual vs. Trainers and move right over to the tricky subject of colour for the first date. Noble shades are in trend. Check if your closet is well stocked with dark blues, earthly browns and pastels.

Above Images from applewayfarers.tumblr.com

Alternatively, no one cancelled black. Ten to one, black is the best short-cut for an effective appearance. Recall what Japanese fashion designer Yohji Ymamoto said: Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy but mysterious. Striving for those adjectives will certainly provoke an intrigue.

Above Images from applewayfarers.tumblr.com

Although, if complete void of colour sounds too uninspiring, adding some to the accents such as scarves, ties, belts or even socks would solve the problem. I am convinced that socks should never be underestimated. Dark red with grey ensembles, or bright ochres with the blue ones. This shows you know how to balance and that you don’t take yourself to seriously. Look into Supreme or UNIQLO styling for a masterly visual reference of colour mixing.

Above Images from applewayfarers.tumblr.com

Ultimately, best dressed men and the real risk- takers should also consider patterns and prints. Let’s inspect some of Spring-Summer 2013 Menswear collections. We have timid florals from Raf Simons, complex geometries from Burberry, animal prints with an urban twist from Kenzo and even hand craft and embroidery from Phillip Lim. It seems there is more than enough to choose from depending on your personality, mood or current weather.

Raf Simons

Burberry

Philip Lim

Above Images from dazeddigital.com

Saying all that, the last and the most significant equipment that should be considered is the ability to be yourself with the way you use fashion. Aside from the great look, clothes should bring the sense of confidence and calm. This way rather than worrying whether the bow tie (you probably never wore before) is in place, you can consecrate on a person in front of you. Wear a charming smile and do not overemphasise your fashion efforts. You’ve got the killer style card up your sleeve right? Or maybe even a few. She will know it and will surely want to see them in a near future. Besides, the stars are always on the side of those who know what effort is, but also those who know when enough is enough.

Posted By: Tess

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Lost Boys

Cities |  Intrepid Executive |  Washington DC | 

In Georgetown, mere blocks from bourgeois M Street teeming with tourists, an unexpected coup in Capitol menswear occurred. LostBoys, a men’s-only style studio, enabled the boardroom-badass dichotomy of the Washingtonian man to coexist.

Open since 2008, the cutting-edge establishment has earned a 2012 MR Magazine Uptown/Downtown Honoree award and countless features in publications such as the Washington Post, DC Magazine, and the Washingtonian.

“I never wanted a store, to be honest with you, said Kelly Muccio, owner and lead stylist of Lost Boys.

A native to the area, she worked in New York and LA for the likes of Tommy Hilfiger and Victorinox before returning to DC more than four years ago. Her guy friends began referring to her for style advice. She was eager to oblige, until demand grew.

All of a sudden I was like, I need something to pull from. Shit! Well I’m going to have to stack my decks. I guess I’ve gotta open a fucking store. Okay! She laughs. Excuse my language, but I lived in New York for five years.

We forgive you. Let’s get real here, Kelly Muccio is a bombshell. Beyond the blonde’s striking good-looks, she also has an exuberant, explosive personality and spontaneous nature. It’s easy to see why male customers love her. But what’s even clearer is why they love Lost Boys: it’s the epitome of effortlessly cool.

My mission was to create a space where guys could come and let their guards down, and really have an open experience with what their style is, and maybe what their style could be. Muccio said.

On the first floor, a single industrial rack lines the right wall, showcasing a curated selection of looks. You’ll find suiting, shirts, outerwear, denim, ties, some basics, and a new collection every week (prices range from $80 tees to $2,000+ suits). A rotating roster of designers includes BandofOutsiders, Theory, JohnVarvatos, Rogan, and more.

While it may seem minimal, the selection is meticulously chosen and is often exclusive. In August, Band of Outsider tailored suiting hit DC for the first time, available only at Lost Boys. The studio carries TheWhiteBriefs, a Swedish brand sold in only ten stores throughout the US. It makes the best in underthings, featuring 100% organic pima cotton tees and briefs cleanly (ahem) packaged in a cubed box.

Muccio keeps a close relationship with the designers she carries and was on the phone with Stefan Miljanic of Gilded Age earlier, gathering the precise details of the process used on the modern yet rugged pair of grey selvedge jeans the store just got in. The f-me jeans, as her team have deemed them, are lined up under a flat-screen TV playing Casino Royale.

I feel like [James Bond is] such a gentleman, yet he’s a 007 killer and he’s a ladies man, Muccio said. But it’s not how he is, it’s how he approaches everything. And that’s what we try to do here.

Lost Boys selection for fall is piece-driven, zeroing in on those special items that can be worn with anything, like a sleek, slate grey leather jacket or a Theory sport coat picture above ($535).

Saying Lost Boys hosts events would be a disservice to the epic remember when..? nights Muccio puts on. No trunk shows or cocktails and cupcakes. We’re talking about a fashion versus foodie throwdown with the designers of Shipley & Halmos and Rouge 24’s R.J. Cooper, and a night dedicated to the lost art of the pre-game with straight-razor shaves and cocktails with Tryst’s bartender, to name a few.

With our events here, I want to add to that fantasy of elegance and quoi and know-how that I personally find attractive, she said.

Muccio mentions a possible collaboration with the designer Rogan Gregory, who also happens to weld modern Eames chairs and designed some of the furniture in Lost Boys.

How sick would that be to go to an event with a guy with a blowtorch being like, ˜This is how you fucking make furniture™? Pretty sick.

Everything in the store emulates this raw masculinity and gentlemanliness — from the plush leather chairs to the classic Sinatra soundtrack to the Suede & Smoke aroma (courtesy of the man-approved Deliriumcandles).

And just like a true man of mystery, the studio has a secret: The Black Room.

In the beginning, so many clients were requesting one-on-one appointments that the store ended up being closed more than open. So when the second level became available, Muccio jumped at the opportunity to create a fantasy playground for styling exclusive clients.

If I personally, as an artist and a creator, have a space to dedicate to this, what would my fantasy be of upstairs? Muccio asked herself.  And so the esoteric second floor of Lost Boys was born.

The Black Room was engineered by Muccio and modeled after a black box theater — an empty space where anything could happen.

There are three, huge, metal, gritty as… mmmph…

No word exists for the cabinets she’s describing. It’s simply that raw grit only a noise can express.

Three head-to-toe looks literally and dramatically swing open on these huge doors, Muccio said.

It’s here that she makes magic happen. On top of pulling items from downstairs, she uses industry contacts to bring in pieces right off the runway.

I’m buying what I see in each of my clients. So I feel like my journey with each client is exactly that… a journey, Muccio said. It’s like, where am I going to take them next?

Muccio and her staff have dressed Cabinet members, foreign diplomats, and White House Correspondence dinner attendees as well as those guys looking to develop everyday, standout style. But it goes beyond dropping names or big money.

To be honest, Lost Boys is more than a store or even a style studio, like I like to call it, or a work space for guys, Muccio said. It’s a world. And to me, it’s my job to not only help a man claim his identity through clothing, but help him claim his identity through his interests, through what he’s learning. Muccio explains, ¨A guy who can walk into the room, and you have no idea when he leaves what he was wearing, but you remember the essence of that guy… that’s when a man is pulling together all those details. That’s the one who everyone is having a cocktail, and all of a sudden takes a moment , and doesn’t even realize that they’ve stopped conversation.

Rocco, Muccio’s French bulldog, keeps watch over the merchandise.

Lost Boys

1033 31st Street

Neighborhood: Georgetown

Store Hours:

Thursday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Sunday: 12 p.m. to 6 p.m.

The Black Room:

Requests only. Limited availability.

Prices: $$$

 

Posted By: Jessica Gressa

 

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Cuff ’em

New York |  Thrift Etiquette | 

Your pants are running wild.

It’s anarchy in the streets as straight legs go awry. Inseams are out, waists are wasted, and no one knows how to stop it.

If they’re chinos, of course, you can roll them rather than committing to the cuff, but try it with slacks and you’ll look sloppy and affected (and not in a good way).

It works best with flatter colors, of course, since pinstripes have that symmetry that can sometimes be thrown off with alteration, but that being said, this trend is all about change, so take the risk and cuff ’em.

Best of all, it can take a pair of slacks you’ve shoved into the back of your closet and, for the pittance of $10 to $15 (depending on your tailor) breathe new life into a garment you’d all but relegated to the donations pile.

So get out there and tame those hems. Only you can prevent boring work slacks.

Your tailor can save you. This season, there’s a resurgence of cuffed pants. Hold your objections, gentlemen, they’re no longer for investment bankers and old men from the Upper East side, and there are distinct advantages to this returning trend.

Think about it: it allows you to raise the hem an extra half inch to an inch, because of the perception of added length. This rids mens’ slacks of the dreaded bunching at the calf that’s symptomatic of being just a little too long, and the single biggest tell to an ill-fitting pair of pants. The extra weight keeps everything smooth and neat, too. Most importantly, who doesn’t love a little extra flair on a typically boring garment?

Posted By: John

Image Credit: Dress Code Custom

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Designer Profile: Niklas Ankar

Cities |  New York |  Products |  Stockholm | 

You may recognize Niklas Ankar’s loud plaids and bright, festive chinos from New York Fashion Weeks past, because they’re difficult to forget. …You make your surrounding happy in a certain way. Ankar champions the use of contrasting patterns and you’d be hard pressed to find more pink in a single collection than if you were lucky enough to catch him during Spring 2012 Fashion Week.

Ankar contrasts the forward-thinking patterns and colors with a classic fit that he says calls back to movies and resorts of the 1950s, with tight lapels and slim fitting chinos that cut the narrow profile we’ve come to expect from European designers.

Best of all, Ankar’s clothing (what precious little of it you can find on his website: ankarsweden.com) is moderately priced and on par with his lookbook (which, of course, you can also see on his website).

Most striking about Ankar’s collection, though, is the prominence of Kikoys, a versatile piece that can function as anything from a skirt to a scarf. According to Ankar, they were originally used by the fishermen in East Africa and they wore and still wear them instead of trousers.

Now, he says, every second kid, woman and even man in Sweden wears them as scarves, (they’re) a great accessory that will brighten up or tone down whatever else you are wearing. And it’s absolutely true, especially because the versatility allows Ankar to use patterns that even he wouldn’t dare put on a pair of pants or a jacket, with bright, peacock patterns and brilliant frills.

Pick one up for a cool 350 Swedish Kroen (that’s about $50 to us stateside, and Ankar’s online shop offers the option to pay in good ole US Dollars).

While Ankar’s clothing certainly isn’t for everyone, as it takes a certain sort of sartorial commitment to wear a pair of blue plaid trousers, if you’re the type of man that likes to make such a statement, look no further than this Swedish-born son of a textile man.

 

Niklas Ankar himself

Posted By: John

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Ginger Root Design

Cities |  Washington DC | 

You wouldn’t know it, but those khakis you’re about to buy in blue, sage, and red? They’re actually the same carpenter pants you wore in the 90s. Only they’ve been re-cut in a slimmer, modern style and over-dyed in bold colors.

Ginger Root Design

Overdye red khakis, vest converted from damaged blazer, and fall men’s blazer.

Photo by Kim Maxwell Vu

At Ginger Root Design, everything that is old is new again… and we mean that in the literal sense. Owners Kristen Swensen and Erin Derge have created a unique brand that includes a boutique, clothing line, and tailoring shop that focuses on reviving the past.

Swensen made the move to DC in 2009 and ran a tailoring business out of her apartment in Shaw called ReVamp. When demand for her services grew, Swensen called upon her best friend from Minnesota, Derge, and soon the two red-haired Midwestern women were at the helm of what is now one of the most buzzed about lines in DC.

The charming U Street shop is chock-full of locally made men’s and women’s clothing, neckwear, cufflinks, and more. Among the accessories and artwork from talented locals is the Ginger Root line, all eco-friendly and upcycled from old clothes or vintage/surplus fabrics. You’ll find a variety of unique pieces for the modern guy and the vintage-inspired gent — pocketed men’s button-ups; revamped vintage vests with stripes and decorative applique embellishments on the back; and the signature Ginger Root ascots, available in a variety of colors and patterns.

 

Ginger Root Mens vest: vintage refurbished vest that has added stripes on the back from an old tie.

Photo by Mark Silva

Ascot recycled from vintage tie.

Photo by Ginger Root

Above the boutique is a recently renovated tailoring/design space  where they restore treasured clothing items. Here the pair and a group of alteration experts work on everything from tailoring suits in a fitted, tapered way (something old-school tailors may protest) to simply hemming dress pants.

We also get a number of men that want us to modernize/redesign old pieces they have had around for 5-10 years but can’t let go of, they wrote in an exclusive interview with BDMOTP. Sometimes shopping your closet can cost the same as buying something brand new, but it’s more unique, custom tailored, and often times those older garments were made better (especially vintage pieces).

The turnaround time for altering a suit is typically two weeks, although they can swing basic alterations to pants and button-ups in a week. Tailoring for suits costs from $50 to $150, whereas hemming pants or taking in the waist is generally $25. They are by appointment only, so be sure to call ahead.

As if a clothing line/boutique/tailor isn’t ambitious enough, the ladies also host basic sewing classes and hope to have a men’s clothing pop-up in the near future, so be sure to check their blog, where you can also see some examples of their work and pick up some sewing terminology.

Fashion is contagious, and each day someone takes a risk with their wardrobe, they help give another person a little boost of confidence to try a new style as well, they wrote. DC has great momentum, and even though there’s a lot of work to do yet in the fashion scene here, it’s getting better every day.

Modern Guy display.

Photo by Ginger Root

Vintage-inspired display with Ascots.

Photo by Ginger Root

New pocketed men’s button-up, paired with outlined tie, and overdye khakis.

Photo by Ginger Root

Cuffs for men by Metal Musings, owner Erin’s mom.

Photo by Kim Maxwell Vu

All men’s blazer closed, converted from vintage blazers.

Photo by Kim Maxwell Vu

Overdye red khakis, vest converted from damaged blazer, and fall men’s blazer

Photo by Kim Maxwell Vu

Ginger Root Design

1530 U St. NW
Neighborhood: U Street

Store Hours:
Monday, 2 to 7 p.m.
Thursday, Friday, Saturday Noon to 7 p.m.
Sunday 1 to 6 p.m.

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Taji

Cities |  Istanbul |  New York | 

With a team of tailors willing to travel the world in order to provide customers with the perfect fit, Taji gives a whole new meaning to “bespoke.” Founded in 1998 by Taci Seker, this Istanbul boutique in Nisantasi delivers the finest fabrics and artistry when it comes to custom menswear, crafting everything from staple dress shirts to formal tuxedos. Beyond the bespoke, the shop also carries collections from top European brands such as Stephano Ricci, Valentino, Albini, Santoni, Harris, and more. The store is impecibly organized, making it easy to find whatever it is you are looking for. The tailors will adjust and help you make sure you have the most perfect fit possible, saving you a trip to an outside tailor.

However, you don´t have to go as far as Istanbul to find these exotic fabrics and designs. You are in luck in you reside in New York City, because there just so happens to be a store location there as well.

Website: Taji
Taji Giyim San. ve Tic. Ltd. Sti. Tesvikiye Cad. No: 18/A Nisantasi – Istanbul / Turkey 34365
Taji Fashion New York-675 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10065 USA
Photo images from the Taji website
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Astoreisgood

Cape Town |  Cities | 

On the first block of Kloof Street sits astoreisgood or, to be more specific, “South Africa’s first contemporary lifestyle store. Opened in 2004, this store strives for originality and exclusivity with the products they offer. The a-team hand-selects items that range from designer footwear, clothing, and accessories to books, music, art, and gifts fit for the street culture nut on the lookout for limited edition Adidas sneakers, vintage-looking tees, and graphic design publications.

Items are sourced from all over the world, and brands in stock include Citizen Band, Nike, Cheap Monday, RVCA, Feiyue, WESC, Adidas originals, and more. Funky lighting and a modern, sleek store appearance make s shopping at astoreisgood an easy and relaxing experience. For those of you not located in South Africa, you can also shop online. They even have a blog so you can find out what´s new and hot according to the offical astoreisgood team.

For more information, visit the A store website.

34 Kloof Street

8001 Cape Town

Store Hours:

Monday through Friday, 9:00 to 17:00

Saturday, 9:00 to 15:00

Sunday 10:00 to 14:00

A StoreA StoreA StoreA Store

Photo Images from a store facebook page

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Arnold’s

Cities |  Vienna | 

Jakub Arnold, the former managing director of Carhartt, brought an eclectic selection of grownup street wear clothing to Vienna when he opened Arnold’s in 2010. He wanted Vienna to boost urban shops like the ones found in Amsterdam, London, or Paris, so he created his own. Here you’ll find a variety of international brands, including EDWIN denim, Carhartt, TOMS, Brooklyn We Go Hard, Dejan, Filson, G-Star Raw, Naked and Famous, Retrosuperfuture shades, Happy Socks, and Red Wing Shoes as well as pieces from some of Vienna’s most wanted designers like Maiko and Kawayan. Be sure to check out the new Carhartt x A.P.C. collection that hit shelves October 19 — a intriguing collaboration combing French minimalism and American rustic wear.

Arnold’s is located in the trendy district 7, one of Vienna´s most fashionable areas.  They strive to make the shop approachable and fun, decorated with old sewing machines, vintage signs, even an old dryer!  But don´t think for a moment that their brands aren´t modern and covetted…everything at Arnold’s is right on trend.

For more information, visit the Arnold’s website or the Arnold´s Facebook page.

Location:

Siebensterngasse 52

1070 Vienna, Austria

Store Hours:

Monday to Friday, 11:00 to 19:00

Saturday, 11:00 to 17:00

Items in Pictures 3 and 4

Carhartt hickman coat, GRP Firenze sweat, DenimDemon jeans, Incase iPhone case, Carhartt gloves and shirt, Merz b. Schwanen shirt, RE: belt, Happy Socks striped, Carhartt beanie

BWGH L/S Shirt, Demon Denim T-Shirt L/S, GRP-Pullover, Carhartt Cord, SUPER, NIKE Air Epic, Carhartt Camo Backpack

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Etiqueta Negra

Buenos Ares |  Cities |  Miami |  New York |  Sao Paulo | 

Since 2003, this international emblem of Argentine dressing has worked to perfect a timeless men’s style. The high-end brand designs clothing that fits impeccably and gives off an aura of sexy, effortless ruggedness, all while looking completely polished. The fitted Italian wool suits, basic luxe T-shirts, slim pants, charcoal sweaters, leather jackets, and more are all essentials for the best-dressed man. Citing motorcycles and classic cars as inspiration, it’s no wonder Etiqueta Negra designs are every bit as masculine and beautiful as an Aston Martin DB5.

Not only do they offer top notch apparel, the brand offers fragrance and accessories as well. Try the Acero watch for a touch of dark style or one of their formal suits for your next wedding.

Visit the Etiqueta Negra website or follow them on Facebook  for more information.

Vedia 3652 C1430DAH

Dot Baires, Buenos Aires

Hours

10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Etiqueta Negra Etiqueta Negra Etiqueta Negra Etiqueta Negra Etiqueta Negra

 

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Parisian Meets British Style: The Kooples

Cities |  London |  Paris | 

Offbeat, chic, hip, and most importantly: unisex…I serve you with vocabulary used to describe The Kooples, which has, quite literally, taken over Paris and the UK, with 184 shops opened in just 4 years.  The Kooples brand has their main shops ¨The Kooples¨ and ¨The Kooples Sport¨ shops which feature a more casual look.

The brand was created by the Elicha brothers- Raphael, Alex and Laurent, who wanted to combine French style with a little bit of British edge.

It´s not just clothes…it´s a concept. The backstory on the Kooples (the french take on the pronouciation of the word ¨couples¨) is an interesting one: that clothes should and will be exchanged between couples, that after awhile couples begin to dress similarly, and of course promoting the boyfriend/girlfriend shopping together experience.  There are two distinct collections, one for men and one for women, however, the two collections complement each other and are meant to be ¨borrowed¨. As one might conclude, the clothes are more masculine than girly-with the idea that girls usually borrow a man´s blazer or jeans (hence the nicknames ¨the boyfriend blazer¨ or ¨the boyfriend jeans¨).  Their mottos include a closet for two and till fashion do them apart.

Their advertising campaigns, which feature, you guessed it-couples wearing similar fabrics and colors of clothing is original and intriguing one. I actually got lost during my Paris bike tour because I stopped to pull over and look at the window display of a Sport Kooples store on Rue Des Francs Bourgeois while the others biked ahead.

The stores launched France, spread quickly to the UK and then to Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and now have recently opened up in the USA in select Bloomingdales stores in New York and New Jersey.

For more information, visit the Kooples webpage or Facebook page.

Photo Credits: Couples Photos from the Kooples Facebook page.

Posted By: Lori

 

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POSTED IN | Cities, London, Paris
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