Maharishi at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

Maharishi, which was once an underground London cult favorite, is seemingly growing in popularity year by year. This season, their collection featured urban street wear as usual and had a particular focus on groups and tribes, whether it be religious groups, crews or even military platoons.

We see this group focus in the form of robes and long coats (roots in religious orders), uniforms or camouflage utility wear (military focus) or even stadium jackets and oversize streetwear (crews). All of their designs were inspired by peaceful brotherhood and the color orange (they call it Lama) is prevalent among the collection, inspired by Tibetan monks (Maharishi, although they do military designs are very much pacifists).

As usual, we seen the insignia and badges, many with the Maharishi name and alligator logo plastered on various jackets and otherwise.

Maharishi always seems to push boundaries, and we can’t wait to snap of some of these designs for AW16.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Abdel Abdulai.

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Berthold at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

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We happily took refuge on a rainy morning to view some bold fashion. Walking into the Swiss Church, Berthold presented a powerful collection. At first glance, the collection is quite impactful. Several models looking serious and sharp staring at you with daylight streaming through the skylight windows of the refurbished church. Of course, the deep beats KRL wolf music also helped.

Right on trend for fall, long coats were seen on all the models. Most wore black but the vibrant orange yellow stood out as being the only bold color, making it even more intense. Added volume play a big part in the collection, making the coats seem quite modern and differentiating them from many of the other long coats we’ve seen so far for AW16. The collection is called Drowning for a reason, as the oversize coats seem to overpower the room.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Charles Wosselin.

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Casely-Hayford at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

Casely-Hayford is always a BDMOTP favorite at London Collections: Men. For AW16, the collection, entitled Irregimental Youth, offered a wide range of dressy looks with printed, unique blazers, utilitarian floor-length puffy coats and work wear and plenty of casual street wear. The juxtaposition of the uniformed work wear with the unique printed 60’s patterns made the collection an original one.

Of course, long trenches, the theme of 2016, were ever-present in this collection, as well as fur collars. The use of volume, say, a puffy pocket sewn onto an otherwise tailored coat was an interesting detail.

BDMOTP favorite: printed blazers.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Casely-Hayford.

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Thomas Pink at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

Thomas Pink, the ever-dapper British menswear brand once again hosted their tailored collection at the Carlton Terrace in London. The looks encased a variety of styles: first, some dressy looks such as plaid and velvet suits with bowties. Then, things moved along to some cuffed denim with layered collared shirts and sweaters.

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Their signature style of matching bold colors together, such as pink pants with an orange sweater sounds garish but actually really works! Ski hats added a little trend to elegant blazer looks, and of course, fitting with the current styles, plaid plaid plaid, in the form of suits and shirts, mixed with prints and underneath blazers.

BDMOTP can always count on Thomas Pink to offer a standard British elegance that you just can’t seem to get elsewhere!

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Post by Lori Zaino and photos by Abdel Abdulai.

 

 

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Private White VC at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

BDMOTP always loves a visit to the classic Private White VC brand. We recently stopped into their press day and saw some wonderful SS16 looks.

The crowd was happily sipping on drinks and checking out the collection.

The crowd was happily sipping on drinks and checking out the collection.

The FW2016 did not disappoint, and neither did the talkative attendees, happily crowded into the basement of the shop to check out the new collection.

This dog always wanders around during events. His name? Not sure.

This dog always wanders around during events. His name? Not sure.

The looks were dapper as usual, and of course, the dog never lets us down either. The long coats were probably the BDMOTP favorites, though simple, they were impeccably tailored and layered above warm knitwear, turtlenecks and cardigans.

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The long wool coats embellished with a fur collar would keep many a gentleman warm in the winters ahead.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Abdel Abdulai.

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CMMN at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

CMMN Sweden seems to be growing in popularity season by season, and not without reason. Each season, the CMMN collection becomes more and more refined and the AW16 line was the best we’ve seen from CMMN yet. A distinct 70’s feel, the baggy trousers, bold hues of orange, browns and beiges and the tweed, fluffy coats bring us back to days of freedom and disco. Velour tracksuits tops and burnt orange suede jackets bring depth into the collection.

The layering in the collection, like a plaid coat over a leather motorcycle jacket over a turtleneck was not only functional for chilly winter days, but also brought the collection to a modern level.

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Post and photos by Lori Zaino.

 

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Nigel Cabourn at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

Viewing the Nigel Cabourn was visit number two on BDMOTP’s list this season at London Collections:Men. The collection was actually three collections in one: the Authentic Nigel Cabourn, the Lybro brand and The Army Gym.

The authentic collection was preppier and had that distinct British gleam of impeccable tailoring and style. Tweeds and sweaters, trenches and watches can be found in this collection. Lybro is the brand clothing of the factory workers: utility, functional items with comfort of the utmost importance. Of course, we flash black to British industrial revolution with some of these looks. Finally, the Army gym reminds us of a high school locker room: sporty numbered tees bring us back to the good ol’ days.

After speaking with the designer, the vision of the three collections became clear and we at BDMOTP think combining all three would make for the ultimate British gentleman.

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Post and photos by Lori Zaino.

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Universal Works at London Collections: Men

Cities |  London | 

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BDMOTP kicked off London Collections: Men with a visit to the circus. Well, not exactly…the Universal Works fashion house got a little creative this season and offered up a vintage circus theme and experience. Don’t go thinking clowns and elephants though–the designs weren’t really circus like at all–think vintage-esque long jackets, modern separates and hipster sweaters and ski hats.

The looks were conservative, but not frumpy, instead stylish and up-to-date. Touches of plaid and screen printed t-shirts made the collection relevant in today’s fashion scene. The circus was all in the accessories…not belts or cuff links, but cotton candy, popcorn, even a live goldfish in a baggie. If this is what the circus is like these days, well, sign me up!

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Post and photos by Lori Zaino.

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Private White V.C., London

Cities |  London | 

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BDMOTP was able to pay a visit to Private White V.C. during their press day in London. Interestingly enough, all the clothes are made in Manchester in homage to a WW1 hero: Private Jack White. This explains the inspiration and emphasis on the occasional military look, whether it be a button or a functional coat, the collections seemingly make more sense now.

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We were also able to get a sneak peek at the line back last season during London Collections: Men, where we spotted not only some cool designs but also a very cute puppy petted by British model David Gandy. This time around, no dogs and no supermodels, just the Private White V.C. collection, which was more than  enough to wow us.

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The jackets really stood out, in bold, vibrant tones like orange, turquoise and periwinkle. You can note the shape and style of the jackets is very much military inspired, with buttons and square shapes. The addition of a hat or scarf accessory gives the collection a temporary edge.

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Even the more casual looks seem dapper at Private White V.C.

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Post by Lori Zaino and photos by Darrel Hunter.

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Gentleman Unite: The dunhill London SS16 Collection

Cities |  London | 

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BDMOTP recently had the pleasure of visiting British menswear designer dunhill during their Press Day to view their SS16 collection. dunhill is a luxury menswear designer that oozes the very essence of what it means to be a British gentleman.

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The brand dates back to 1893 and not only creates menswear clothing but also delves into fun accessories that yet again, remind us what it means to be a Brit. A perfect gift for that man in your life (father, brother, bf, husband) would be a dapper dunhill accessory, something to the likes of a flask, keychain, moneyclip, vintage lighter or even a Backgammon set.

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But back to the Press day, of course.

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The dunhill SS16 collection is preppy and elegant, but also offers up a little trend, like mixing various plaids, prints and paisleys. It wouldn’t be uncommon for the dunhill man to select a window-pane suit with a paisley tie and a plaid shirt, giving it an essential vintage feel that somehow seems to be very now.

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We loved the classic reds and blues layered with jackets, ties and knitwear, and it certainly wouldn’t be a collection without a bowtie added in somewhere.

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A detail BDMOTP found not only unique but also useful was the tapered, shorter pant with buckle closure–perfect for a blustery London day where you perhaps wouldn’t want to get your trousers wet or dirty. Very convenient indeed, dunhill.

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Finally, it would be incomplete to end this conversation without a mention of the dunhill contemporary leather goods like wallets and weekender bags. In fact, the blue wallet is perfection for spring, and as a female, I wouldn’t even mind sporting it.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Darrel Hunter.

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