One of the particularities of Evan Menswear is that apparently also women love to wear it, and perhaps it is true that today more and more collections offer androgynous design and concepts. However,with EVAN it is probably the beautiful fabrics and materials and the stylish looks which also attract the fairer sex. Hey, who wouldn’t want to wear a Jesus Christ printed perforated T-shirt/Sweater, the great man himself appearing under perforations shimmering in the back ground – we are talking about some seriously cool items here. This Christ image was a recurring theme in the interesting collection with as a slogan ‘Jesus saves the youth’ and when we may believe the show write-up this statement is meant to be controversial by design so as to indicate a form of youthful rebelliousness.  It didn’t come across as such fortunately to BDMOTP as the images and the design were quite beautiful actually. Because beauty always speaks louder than words meant to provoke – thank god.

This latter old fashion wisdom was also evident elsehwere in the collection in that it struck nicely the perfect tone of which is an ancient principle in fashion design:  the use of no more than three colors in one collection, so as to create the ambiance of continuity and signature in the line. In this case, the colors are ochre, burgundy, and of course what is otherwise also called the fourth spectrum – anything between black and white. The use of the three colors will give the sign of exclusivity to any specific collection, and I am sure that Dutch designer Evana Kuik (24) had picked up on this old rule at the well-known Willem de Kooning fashion academy in Rotterdam (this is shockingly only her second collection shown at fashion week, the first being last February).

The Evan logo itself was used as a much enlarged print across the collection with the logo face appearing large in different and unexpected parts on sleeves, backs, and everywhere else but bottoms, and in the same looming size as the face of the Christ – another provocation.  Is it true that youth always likes to provoke the values of previous generations?  BDMOTP leaves that as a rhetorical question for the reader, but in any case this collection had some serious beauty and style to it.  We loved the black print on a white Forever Young T-shirt for instance, an instant classic – where can I buy this, it is summer, and it is perfect for the club or the lounge.

The ambiance of the runway show was much enhanced because of a wild interplay of the presence of a real-live Amsterdam VJ mixing the works with the classical sounds of two classical musicians also present and dressed in Bowler costume: one cellist and one violinist. The three together managed to put on quite a musical performance, which was somewhere on the wide spectrum between jazz, classic, and grunge, well, a combination of those things but definitely much adding to the meaning of what was being showed on the runway. Evana Kuik’s vision statement that fashion is much more than just clothes and that it tells a story had definitely something to do with it.

Young, sporty, androgynous, controversial, beautiful, and stylish are the epithets that BDMOTP would like to leave you with for this very special collection.

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

The Tony Cohencollections are very famous for women–this Dutch designer shows in New York in line with Marc Jacobs. This is a day to be noted in history– the very first show to include a collection for men.

Tony Cohen’s signature is to work with luxurious materials and despite the fact that refined fabrics were clearly on display and that also the men’s collections were gifted with beautiful materials and designs, the contrast was that the women’s collections were much brighter and also more colorful than the men’s.

Perhaps that this has something to do with the idea behind the Tony Cohen men’s collection that the type of man for whom these garments are made is the contemporary nomad, the man who is never fully in control, a man who is on the move, a man trying to make it moving from place to place from job to job… something most of us men can easily relate to.

Yet with his background in high-end women’s garments, the Amsterdam Fashion Week Day 4 Tony Cohen Man Preview Capsule Collection sends a peculiar message also to men: that men can wear high-end refined materials and fabrics; men can aspire to elegance; men can wear double-stitches, or double faced coats, or hemlines worked well from the inside out; and that soft handwoven fabrics are not a man’s shame but rather his prerogative as a nomad going through life. For a man without sensibility, he will most surely lose his winning touch….

There is an indeed an understated luxury in this new clothing line yet to be discovered.

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Dark, foreboding and seriously brooding…the Jonathan Christopher Homme runway show was one of the best BDMOTP has seen all week. The models seemed extra fierce, while dark metal music and decoration ambiance was carrying things further and further down the well-trodden Amsterdam path of neo-goth collections, with the strange twist that hidden in a host of black perforated leather and other materials to which color has no use, there was this streak of bright orange in suspenders, wrist bands, belts, cords, and other strap lock wear so as in order to demonstrate and literally highlight that, as the announcement read, that men are getting BOUND by every step they take, even when moving through the ‘swamp of life’.

After all this is Europe’s industrial north-west corner and on the premises this week all shows have been held in either a giant ancient gas tank from 1902 or in it’s equally decorative machine engine room from times of yore. The show seemed to cleverly tap into these darker moments and darker times and the models seemed to relish the opportunity to show the collection while listening to dark metal, smelling burned wood, walking through mist and vapor rising to a sky filled and dislocated with birds, dark birds, crows maybe, moving about like the wicked creatures found in Alfred Hitchcock’s perhaps most famous movie under the same title name: The birds.

Thus, the models, scarred, bound and strapped in orange and dressed in perforated leather, walked through the misty & musky swamp while hovered over by dark birds. Birds – for who needs drones if you can get dark birds to cast a certain gloom. Tim Burton could have proudly served up this deliciously dark dish as a new movie set and when you then know that indeed Jonathan Christopher has been doing work for Karl Lagerfeld – another master to whom gothic imagery is no stranger – you come to realize that you have just witnessed a very special show for one very good collection.

Woe to the man who is not strapped and bound in bright orange while walking in perforated leather through the swamp of life!  For not every man is a rocker. And not every man is a biker. Yet some men they walk with the birds. And strapped in orange, their beautiful garments will set them free.

And while we noticed one small white bird floating among the host of brooding dark ones, this probably sums up best the Jonathan Christopher Homme Spring/Summer 2015 collection, “NEXUM”.

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

Vibrant Pakistan, they say. An spectacle full of bright colors, traditional materials, joyful music and of course, style.

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We are right in the heart of Amsterdam’s Fashion Week and while most of the city is hoping to see their team wining the third position in the World Cup, expectation arouses a full house. And there it is, after one show and a wonderful dancing performance, the unexpected, not in the form of spectacle but in the form of an impeccable, sharp and neat style, invaded the catwalk.

With an unique “savoir-faire” and passion for the detail, Bareezé Man, a brand that was born out of experimentation with embroidered fabric, presents us a collection for the man that travels, but only for those capable to do it with style, sophistication and a twist of panache. It’s for men who care about details but only if it comes with a purpose, for modern men that fulfill the requirements of a gentleman.

Innovation meets tradition in a collection inspired by “old world means of transport”, combining the classic elegance of a white jacket with blue Vespa helmets and burgundy leather bags. Planes, motorcycles, cars…all come together in one fitting phrase: performance meets style.

Camouflage prints in silk shirts, jackets and trousers are the main characters of this “transport parade”, followed by electric blue leather vests and beige suede coats. A definitely must for those who love to travel without compromising their elegance.

So prepare your most fancy suitcases, grab your motorcycle helmet and join the new generation of “travelers-in-style”.

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Post and photos by Paloma Canseco.

On day three of Amsterdam fashion week BDMOTP had the pleasure of seeing the Mevan Kaluarachchi 2014 menswear summer “Wardrobe” collection, wardrobe being the name of Mevan’s prior collections ever since 2008 which often are seasonless. But not this one.

A typically bright summer collection in light and gentle colors, simple and straightforward designs and concepts, a refreshing and lightly colorful look and style, with the added twist that some of the materials used have a multi-colored layered liquid shine to it, which often can be the case when designers are inspired by materials coming from India or Sri Lanka. Think Bollywood but with colors much lighter and more refined and subtle and think very light clothes for the summer.

Think again, like we noticed in the other collections over the past couple of days (espcially Non by Kim) at Amsterdam fashion week, of men in shoes but without socks. Shorts. Light jackets. T-shirts. Summer shirts. Sandals. But all laced with light colors so as to fit into the summer season when nature reaches for the sun.

Thus Mevan Kaluarachchi is creating a very seductive “haute gamme” line of quality menswear for summer. Casualness is key and the light colors are important, as is an open and inviting look or style. We spotted traditional summer sunglasses with matching sandals, light jackets over T-shirts, shirts loosely hanging out of light but well fitted trousers or pants.  In look and style Mevan Kaluarachchi was able to create a line for summers past and for summers future – a collection of pleasance which will not change over time – not on those summer days when your mind is free of care and free of worry and when you like to hit the streets in good style going for an easy stroll.

Yet one item stood out in the collection and we would like to give it a special mention. In the same way certain beetles are able to reflect light yet refract two colors at the same time thereby creating two different colors at once, one of the models was wearing a pair of light pants with a blue summer jacket and a white T shirt with sandals, and with the special feature that it was refracting both purple and blue at the same time. It was the star item by a distance on this runway but when you look at the photo of it below, you will not be able to see the double color light refraction although you will be able to spot the pair of trousers. This is one of those things which with the current level of technology available, one is only still able to see and witness in person. And which materials and which method precisely were used to create this gem we do not know but it would certainly make for an interesting future study and post on the topic. Suffice to say that people were awed by its very appearance and that we wondered why only one single item of this magic fabric was on display.

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

The Franzel Amsterdam collections at Amsterdam Fashion Week day two had an industrial and commercial feel to it, and when researching this audacious designer BDMOTP discovered that the reason for an aggressive style statement is that the designer himself originally came from a tough background where it was always important to keep fighting for success–and that this includes the statements men make every day wearing their clothes. Apparently the designer wishes to reach out to men, giving them the ability to become, what he calls, new. We could call it the “new man” collection, in the sense that each man faces a struggle certain in society to make it, from the bottom to the top, and in that only the new man has a chance to succeed.

The looks and sounds on the runway were industrial, commercial, sometimes gothic in its perspective, but with a large dose of art and non-art, street art, classic traditional art, classic art blending in with industrial design, or modern art, pop art, blending in with commercial design. This was aptly phrased by and characterized by a mission and brand statement printed across most of the collection with the slogan: “This is NOT art.”, the word “NOT” being crossed out to emphasize the ambiguity of the style.

Vermeer’s Girl with the Golden Earring and Van Gogh’s landscape art in all its colors blended with industrial and commercial design, and set on and against materials ranging from plastic, to latex, cotton, and everything else but wood.  Andy Warholesque repetition of commercial products, in the form of coke bottles, and yes the infamous can of Campbell’s soup, juxtaposed against images of traditional art like the Mona Lisa. A blasphemy of sorts really for those who like tradition, or for those who like pop art.

One definite and notable standout in this marvelously macadam collection made for new, new summers on the streets of cosmopolitan cities around the globe, were the sporty calf-high white socks paired with various not-to-be-missed red basketball sneakers. Now granted that wearing little-red-riding-hood red sneakers in some parts of town may be dangerous fare as immediately all attention is drawn to the man who dares to go in style making such a bold and obnoxious statement in such fiery fashion, but we do have to admit that it still looks ‘bloody’ grand and pretty awesome on the runway–especially when the men go in teams wearing the same baskets, the same colors.

A pretty bold statement indeed but knowing that Franzel Amsterdam aspires and promises to make those men “new” who come from the other side of the tracks or from perhaps a the not-so-easy part of the hood, this may very well be the quickest road to success in life indeed. For the man who dares to stand out in colors in any and all circumstances, he, he will already have won, for the simple reason that he was able TO STRIKE A POSE before his rivals came along.

Franzel Amsterdam:  For the man who dares…

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

 

“We are Victorious. We are the Young Barren Warriors of Planet X. At your peril, you will have forgotten us, but we hark back to times stretching eons.  Our heads are always held up high so that our gaze is fixed upon infinity, but no you won’t see our eyes as we protect ourselves with special glasses made of lead, which protects us from the tritium radiation found everywhere in our thin planet atmosphere.  Like Riddick, we see in the dark, so we take it for natural that our forms and our fashion must appear alien to you. Dark perhaps. But our mission is not to destroy, but to impress, to flaunt, to walk and to walk on.  We are the walkers, the ones you have forgotten. For man’s journey from boyhood to man is not without scars, and not without moments of peril.  The reason we appear so strange and alien to you, is because this part of manhood has long been forgotten. On your world this old way of life lies still hidden and preserved in what you call the middle ages, or in TV shows like ‘Games of Thrones’.  Hence your fascination.  And in Ridley Scott Sci-Fi movies of course. We are the last refuge of forgotten manhood, our lives are viaticals, in which things will come to pass which cannot be planned or controlled. We are free, not of because who we want to be, or by the petty privileges which authorities can bestow upon us, but by the burden of our fate. Because to become a real man, is the greatest thing there is.  But let us walk on, because the days are short on our planet, two suns are setting, and the night is full of danger.”

Many kudos to Dutch designer Mirte van Wijngaarden at Amsterdam Fashion Week day two who created a collection “We Are Victorious” which can be referenced as fitting for the outcast cast of men in a post – apocalyptic end-of-times kind of movie who are still meandering and roaming the planet in search of something which they know must exist but of which they have forgotten the meaning despite their strong reliance upon all their inner resources – is it love perhaps?

This collection thus definitely tells a powerful story and has a strong message but, mind you, what is impressive the most, is that besides the impressive looks and style created, that the materials used are actually backing up and embedding this Mad Max movie scene. Who would actually think of using lead as a material in fashion? And this in combination with leathers, cottons, linen, latex (hmm), and get this, many a portion of very useful flax.

Flax is a very useful type of material as we all know (think potatoes) and is known as Linum Usitatissimum in Latin which would probable translate as ‘Linen to be used’ and yes, one may very well imagine Riddick or some other doleful warrior in desperate need of resources resort to the use of flax for, aye, the very basic need of clothing.

Where is that bag of potatoes when you most need it, when, all things being equal and all things well considered you would rather prefer to go hungry rather than not to be clothed properly?  A hipsters nightmare.  A warriors dream.  Instructions:  Just cut that flax in pieces and style yourself. Aye, use some latex you find down the road, some rubber perhaps, and if you are lucky some old leather from animals long dead and gone.  And then you get up and put on your protecive eyewear – lead. No need to be smug. Just be calm and very collected, so you can keep on walking…

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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It’s the second runway show for men at Amsterdam fashion week and we are looking at NON (non-seasonal) by Kim, as in Kim Bakker, a Dutch designer strongly influenced by Indian and Persian materials and colors.  The light colors come out beautifully and strikingly and the layering of fabrics make for a light and liquid look.  It’s perfect for summer dreams.

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This collection is called the Panta Rhei menswear label and there is a light and summary ambiance and look to the style which seems to perfectly fit the warm days and summer clouds in Amsterdam this fashion week.

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The no-men-wear-socks-please look was again full on display, as was the frizzled and frazzled hairdo-look which, yes, seems perfect for the beach, for hiking in the mountains, or, aye, for riding a bike along an Amsterdam canal in summer.

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Kim clearly is a style and trend setter with this accessible and open and playfully shiny and lightly colored collection, which very well may do just as well on Ipanema beach, in Miami, San Francisco, or Barcelona, as it would in Amsterdam for summer – but no, not in Detroit.

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Posted by Sandro Joo and photos by Paloma Canseco.

Time is early afternoon of Tuesday May 27, 2014 and location is the garment district of Manhattan and BDMOTP feeling lucky because we get to interview Koos van den Akker, fashion designer and creator of the iconic “Cosby Sweater” seen on Bill Cosby in old school sitcom The Cosby Show. We are in his workshop and Koos is behind his sewing machine, ready to spill.

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Koos: Do you mind if I smoke?

BDMOTP: Of course not!

And Koos lights a cigarette.

BDMOTP: Koos, how do your goals and experience jive with the goals of the young and the hip of today?

Koos: I have no idea.

BDMOTP: Can a creator ever be separated from his creation?

Koos answer is in the negative and he indicates that he is always creating in his workshop even over the past Memorial Day weekend when everyone else is out partying or travelling.  There is no place Koos rather be than in his workshop creating.  He creates not to please customers, but for the sake of creation.  He hopes that what one creates will be pleasing to someone.  Koos considers himself to be a craftsman and not an artist – too many people call themselves artists today and they produce, well, sh**.

Koos lighting up with Kevin van Delsen, a Dutch model showing one of his creations

Koos lighting up with Kevin van Delsen, a Dutch model showing one of his creations

BDMOTP:  Koos, are there certain concepts or ideas you employ during the creative process or is it all intuition?

Koos responds that simple shapes are his canvass and that fabrics are his paints.  He was much inspired by the access to fabrics he found in New York when he first moved to Manhattan from Holland in 1968. Koos has always been much inspired by New York skyscrapers, and when he is creating and designing he thinks of men even though it is mostly women buying his creations. Today “women want their men better dressed”, Koos says.

Koos with model Kevin van Delsen

Koos with model Kevin van Delsen

BDMOTP: What will be your legacy Koos?

Koos: I hope to drop dead behind the sewing machine.

Koos wants to be remembered for his hard work, for being successful with doing what he loves to do, for not compromising, and for making beautiful things.  But he rather not have his work end up in a museum when people no longer wear it, because, according to Koos, ” … that is like death”.

Kevin modeling just another very famous Cosby Sweater

Kevin modeling just another very famous Cosby Sweater

You can find his creations at Koos & Co on 1263 Madison Avenue in Manhattan.  Or you can find Koos on Facebook.

  • Interview by Richard Chianese
  • Photos by Rayzor Sharp
  • Modeling by Kevin van Delsen
  • Written by  Sandro, BDMOTP

Yes folks, Amsterdam does have a fashion week, and the cool thing about it is that it is on the smaller side so that really allows for emerging and cool designers to take part in it.

Straight faced and tattooed models walked the Amsterdam runway for Evan Menswear in for the Fall/Winter 2014-15 Collection. This is the very first Evan Menswear collection, created by the young and emerging Dutch designer Evaa Kuik.

Described with the quote, “being classy is my teenage rebellion”, this collection is a mix between teenage punk and elegant adult. Evan Menswear takes basic silhouettes and modernizes them for that added edginess. Kuik explains that Evan Menswear takes a fresh look at the needs of the man of today’s world. Past and present as well as old and new meanings come together and create ‘A New Businessman’. Or at least, a more updated business man!

Furry trim to a parka, a long lavender dress shirt under a suit, backpacks, and a bright cobalt blue take what would be basic looks into a funkier territory.  The coats are solid, and would be easily mixed and matched with various outfits, not to mention they look warm and soft as well.

BDMOTP favorite: Grey coat with black trim, grey suits

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from FashionWeek.nl

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