If you’re hoping to see selections from almost thirty years of fashionable undergarments designed by Manuel Gotor for men in the form of artistic and eye-catching photographs, you can’t miss the exhibit ‘La Otra Piel,’ meaning ‘The Other Skin’ now showing at the Axel Hotel in Madrid.

Photo by E.Moreno Esquibel.

Photo by E.Moreno Esquibel.

Spanish designer Manuel De Gotor has been creating undergarments and swimwear for men since 1989. Starting off by showing his collections on the Spanish runways, De Gotor then had a brief period of made-to-measure, handcrafting only the most original and one-of-a-kind garments: underwear and sleepwear for his most loyal customers.  In 2009 he started his Ready-To-Wear collections once again, insuring that Spanish, European and men all over the world look good underneath their fancy suits and casual activewear. It’s exciting to see a designer paying so much attention to what is so often ignored when it comes to men: quality undergarments.

The designer himself.

The designer himself.

Gotor’s designs have encompassed a variety of styles over the years which you can see in the photographs. From colorful and bold swimwear to sleek and wearable briefs to silk, sultry robes, there’s something special for every man in Gotor’s collections in the past, present and surely the future. The photos show the versatility and luxury of the collection, as well as Gotor’s eye for fit and trend.

Image from Manuel de Gotor from the Summer 2014 collection.

Photo from Manuel de Gotor from the Summer 2014 collection.

 

You can check out the exhibit through October 15, 2017 in the lobby of the Axel Hotel in Madrid, Spain (Calle Atocha, 49) after successful stints in both Barcelona and Bilbao. If you won’t find yourself in Madrid anytime soon, then you can check out the below photos, which embody the spirit of Manuel de Gotor’s many different designs.

From the Ansia collection. Photo by Javier Carrion.

From the Ansia collection. Photo by Javier Carrion.

A piece from the Ice Summer 2013 collection. Photo by Errejota Kreatif.

A piece from the Ice Summer 2013 collection. Photo by Errejota Kreatif.

Photo by Enrique Toribio.

Photo by Enrique Toribio.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos as specified in caption.

Timeless elegance for men going the distance with Loris Azzaro, the late French – Italian jet-set stylist (1933 – 2003) who obtained the French legion d’honneur for his work and contributions in perfumes and fashion and whose brand has been around since 1967 (today is the occasion to celebrate the 50th anniversary), but whose ultimate legacy in the annals of history may very well turn out to be that he was an early pioneer of what today we know as the fashion party, but which in the early seventies was still a highly exclusive affair for very important people without all the photographers, mock celebrities, or hysterical Instagram wannabes fighting mindlessly over instant access.

Iconic turtleneck with classic optical style.

Iconic turtleneck with classic optical style.

Anyways, the man had a way with class and style which becomes immediately evident still in the pictures hereby attached, and which in all its raw simplicity has sometimes been called ‘élegance intemporelle’ in French which translates simply as timeless elegance. But that is for what we still can see today when we recognize these universal style signatures so many years laters as classy, but when then you would also consider that Loris Azzaro was once the preferred stylist for no one less than Brigitte Bardot, Liza Minnelli, Tina Turner, Claudia Cardinale, Romy Schneider, Jane Birkin, Raquel Welch, and Sophia Loren, then perhaps the timeless elegance of the photos hereby attached pour homme may start to take on a new meaning. Or as Loris Azzaro was famous for saying:

‘On est pas belle / beau par hasard’

(one is not beautiful just by chance)

Iconic turtleneck II with aviator sunglasses.

Iconic turtleneck II with aviator sunglasses.

 

So there it is, in that first image some magic French Chic Intellectuel which somehow still brings back seventies memories of Yves Saint Laurent, or – flashforward 25 years – memories of the last decade of Steve Jobs as High Tech guru par excellence, wearing a real Pull Col Roulé (knitted woolen turtleneck sweater), white court shoes, and metalic nerd glasses notwithstanding, a little bit unshaven in pepper & salt of course – as what would be one outstanding male Loris Azzaro icon for all time.

And so the second image gives a classic Italian impression, a real Viaggio in Italia hallmark with those sunglasses and shades ready for the journey, which again gives evidence of the timeless elegance of the Loris Azzaro Homme collection in that this universal style so easily has the ability to cross over from one culture into the other. So much so that from here on it is not difficult to imagine the Hollywood version of the continuation of this story.

The blue velvet tuxedo dinner jacket with bow tie.

The blue velvet tuxedo dinner jacket with bow tie.

 

Therefore, here come out the dinner jackets now – by Jeeves, which are going to be necessary so as to be socially successful at your next event – be it fashion, business, or even pleasure, so aye, why not show up in a blue velvet tuxedo with black bow tie knowing you already made the part and aced the casting, because indeed you now per Loris Azzaro himself that ‘one is not beautiful just by chance’.

Grey wool coat on wooly turtleneck sweater, wool scarf, optical glasses.

Grey wool coat on wooly turtleneck sweater, wool scarf, eyeglasses.

So credit must go out to stylist Jérome André who so flawlessly brings back this raw simplicity of timeless elegance for this particular collection of Loris Azzaro Homme FW 17/18. For who today still would dare to go in different shades of grey and different knits of simple wool thinking you be cool and casual – or even chic, while spotting a pull col roulé wearing nerd glasses? Noone, lest there be no need to be either casual or cool. And this precisely is perhaps a tall order for today’s man. Unless you posses that timeless elegance of Loris Azzaro.

The pull col roulé on sunglasses

The pull col roulé on sunglasses

Words by Sandro and photos from Loris Azzaro

The name Ports 1961 brings visions of yachting along the Mediterranean, stark-white from head-to-toe and sailor-style navy and stripes. While this isn’t quite the Ports 1961 aesthetic, we were pleased to note that Milan Vukmirovic did add a dash of stripes to his Fall/Winter 2017/18 collection — though that’s where the boating vibes end. Instead, the collection features urban contemporary styles with an underlying European fit and Asia/European tone.

We see some stripes from Ports 1961,but we aren't getting a beachy vibe here. Thank goodness for autumn.

We see some stripes from Ports 1961,but we aren’t getting a beachy vibe here. Thank goodness for autumn.

The designer co-founded the legendary concept store Colette, which is closing its doors December 20, 2017 to the dismay of fashionistas around the world. We could harp on this sad occurrence all day, but we won’t, because focusing on the Ports 1961 Fall collection makes us much happier.

Some Asian influence, along with Parisian amour.

Some Asian influence, along with Parisian amour.

Ports 1961 really went visceral with the colorblocking trend this season, covering sweaters and shirts with large sections of contrasting tones. We get a flash of pastel and white here too — don’t forget winter white is still a thing and the Labor Day white rule goes out the door when you exit the good ol’ US of A. So feel free to sport your winter white with pride all over Europe, Asia and beyond this fall and winter.

You can still wear a little white in the winter.

You can still wear a little white in the winter.

A rather literal colorblocking situation.

A rather literal colorblocking situation.

It wouldn’t be fall without a dash of layering, and Ports 1961 goes more formal with a open-cut style sleeve cape over a colorblocked, partially unbuttoned shirt. The contrasting formal style juxtaposes perfectly with the more casual baggy trousers and unbuttoned, untucked shirt, still crisply ironed, of course.

Layers galore.

Layers galore.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Ports 1961.

Voila the new collection for Cali brand UGG 17/18 (for men since 2012) for any guy who needs a good action boot but who does not want to go to his local sports authority to walk away with a daft regular hiking, tracking, biking, or other type of action boot, but who likes to go surfing, climbing, trekking, free running, or do parkour in STYLE, with a little velvet here and there on the ankle boot, some cool signatures on your quality loafers, and in some awesome posh colors and patterns like norse green, slate, chestnut, or camouflage, or aye, why not grizzly, while a Timberland is certainly not the answer either because it is too heavy and because it lacks that Aussie casual flair and style (UGG was founded by an Australian).

Yes and of course they come with a good inline, with ankle protection, cool strong laces, and in waterproof and weather resistant materials if you want – cold weather or warm, and yes there are exclusive boutique stores in the world’s major cities where you will have to go to find them – exclusively – for this is footwear for men of action who like to go in style as well as looking for adventures. Here at BDMOTP we will it Action-Chic.

In this particular slide show below done for the new fall-winter 17/18 collection you can just picture the boys celebrating the Australian heritage of a shoe accessorized down under in casual chic somewhere in Queensland perhaps, and worn casually, but with the important intent so as to be able to avoid stepping by mistake on a stray local huntsman spider or an indigenous black-bellied swamp snake – because – aye that is what chic ankle boots are for, not to take a selfie to be cool on Instagram but to be weather, terrain, and wildlife resistant while you are at it in wild nature on your latest adventure, hunt, or walkabout – rough weather or wild creatures notwithstanding.

Hence that the action-chic ankle boot collection you can see below is called by name respectively as Sneaker, Casual, Vestmar, Weather, Heritage, Holiday, and Olivert. And not Chelsea boots they are, so let’s call them Aussie Boots in honor to their original creator.

Words by Sandro and photos from UGG.

UGG-1-SneakerUGG-2-CasualUGG-4-WeatherUGG-5-HeritageUGG-6-HolidayUGG-3-VestmarUGG-7-Closer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s cheers to introducing another London Savile Row bespoke ready-to-wear rising star brand called Helen Anthony – Mister Anthony being the designer, and Helen after his grandmother who taught him the art of tailoring – and not forgetting that Mister Anthony’s main inspiration in the creation of all his collections is reported to be his mother – Mom!

But the curious thing for this SS18 collection was that the runway show was being held not in London but during the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at the Real Intercontinental in San José, Costa Rica this month with apparently the illustrious Leonora Jimenez – supermodel – as an organizing director of the fashion week. In addition, this show was being sponsored by the British Embassy and stylist-du-jour Graham Cruz was present to cover for both the men’s and women’s wear collections.

Here at BDMOTP we may say that we have seen this London old gentlemen clubhouse hearty party style before recently with Alexander McQueen where British imperial motives were omnipresent, and to which now Helen Anthony likes to add a more traditional Scottish cloth square, or a pinstripe here and there, or perhaps a more refined Prince of Whales pattern which then mixes up vividly with Indian subcontinent colors of such pomp and of such lack of more traditional occidental shape that they would have not gone misplaced or unnoticed in the hidden salons of Imperial British Hong Kong – and not impeccable German Shanghai – , during the last opium war.

Which is quite a while ago.

For what else can a stiff upper lip gentleman in the late 19th century Far East do but to dress down in colors and shapes of craven braggadocio when you are the only stranger in town if your Scottish square or pinstripe does not remain straight up? You are a gentleman of the Orient after all

Posted by Sandro and photos from Helen Anthony.

HA-FW-17-18-8HA-FW-17-18-4HA-FW-17-18-5HA-FW-17-18-6HA-FW-17-18-7HA-FW-17-18-captionHA-FW-17-18-3HA-Leonora-Jimenez

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Private White VC is one of Best Dressed Man on the Planet’s go to British brands. Unfortunately, this season, they didn’t host an event of any kind in London to launch their SS17/18 collection, and BDMOTP was disappointed as they are usually first to set the tone for London Fashion Week Mens. However, we were able to get the scoop on what’s new and hot as well as who is wearing the brand around town this summer. Let’s start with the newness Private White VC is offering for this fall: a raincoat to weather all raincoats.

The famous unlined Mac

The famous unlined Mac

For those looking for the perfect fall or spring coat, the new SB Unlined Mac in the way to go. It’s apparently rain and windproof created by hand from 100% cotton Ventile Mac finished with their signature copper sealing tape.

However, we weren’t the first to get to Private White VC as much as we would have liked to. The brand is becomingly seemingly larger and growing on an international level and many celebs seem to have gotten there first. Here’s a few of our favorite Best Dressed Men sporting the brand:

The ever-dapper David Gandy.

The ever-dapper David Gandy.

David Gandy, a long time Private White VC fan (we used to spot him at the events each season) is still dedicated to the brand, wearing a Private White VC jacket in the perfect green color.

Woody Harrelson is sports the brand too.

Woody Harrelson is sports the brand too.

Private White VC clearly has an international appeal, as American actor Woody Harrelson was spotted by the Hollywood Reporter wearing Private White V.C. Navy Worksuit trousers.

Tennis start Andy Murrary is a fan as well.

Tennis start Andy Murrary is a fan as well.

Remember that little tennis event called Wimbledon? Andy Murray, tennis champ, was spotted there proudly wearing the Private White VC Suede Rainrider.

Dig through that closet to pull out your favorite Private White VC item to wear this fall, and if you can’ t find anything, perhaps it’s time for a new raincoat?

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Private White VC.

Gucci is one for a very special brand of men. We all know the types, the cool surfers & the beachgoers – the Miami deck bar types in flashing color throw away costumes, the Hamptons type who like to go as Jay Gatsby, the Ibiza & Mykonos wannabes with their latest Jay Alvarez impressions, and we know the luxury yacht men in their dinner jackets pretending to be James Bond. These are all the very fashionable stings and pangs of the leisure casts and the rich kids of Instagram of today.

However, here now – thanks to the House of Gucci – finally there is something completely different, something for a different caste of man all together, something that carves up a new exclusive domain as a grand entry into the pantheon of men’s fashion, something which heretofore had only be reserved for special women: Cruise & Resort Fashion – as in fashion for men.

Enter the yellow carpet, on which walk colorful imperial Gucci creations in all its baroque glory which could only have been invented in and around the old renaissance capital of Florence. Clearly the House of Gucci needs no introduction, but this collection, because this domain is an innovation in men’s fashion, definitely does. And so this particular and peculiar SS18 collection was presented discretely in Firenze on 29 May 2017 as a part of the collection for women’s wear – hiding among the harem so to speak. And we’re sorry we missed it.

For which man has ever dreamt of measuring up to Heliogabalus – the forgotten Roman boy emperor, and dressing up like a god-king? Which man can tap into his inner Rasputin for that matter, and grow a ‘guccified’ (the word exists) hipster-beard so ugly that it would certainly get you killed during the next winter palace revolution? Or how about that unshaven look spotting a daft Saddam-mustachio while wearing a silky foulard around your neck to set off the roses or the peonies on your black renaissance costume?

These and others here below on display are the grand creations all for men to whom luxury is not a necessity to prove anything at all, least of all to themselves, but rather is a special privilege to be enjoyed for pleasure only and only your own pleasure within the restricted confines of a private secluded resort or perhaps a 19th century trans-Atlantic cruise. Exit the yellow carpet.

Men! Be bold, be brave, be Gucci – and Guccify yourselves!

Words by Sandro and photos from Gucci by GPS Radar.

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Cause I’m so pretty....

Cause I’m so pretty….

Now here is a daring question in fashion: it is a well-established known fact that the world’s limited supply of high class designers rotates slowly from major fashion to fashion house as if they are baseball of football (soccer) stars vying to play for the world’s most exclusive and glamorous teams – SO WHY is Glenn Martens still running his own employee project campaign for the Y/Project? We had so hoped he would have replaced Raf Simons by now after Dior kept everybody guessing for more than one year on who be their next creative director. Perhaps that the truth is – quite logical after the John Galliano scandals – that not all the answers always lie in quality design itself, but also in the personal and professional appeal of the leading man or woman. Because take it or leave it, Glenn Martens still is a Bad Boy Boogie of fashion who likes to do his own thing.

The glorious picture here above proves the point. For which other designer would dare to come up with the simple idea to – hey, why not – to dress up and style your own employees (and family and some friends) for a change? Surely not something that the house of Dior would advocate.

So yes, there it is and there he stands, the latest Y/project campaign project, at the local employee picnic in the yard with a photographer at hand (Arnaud Lajeunie) of course, a gloriously androgynous creation with all the star quality of a Dior runway walk or an early seventies Rolling Stones or Bowie photoshoot passive aggression drooling all over the image – but no drugs or alcohol or sex necessary. Just incredible style powerfully speaking by itself of itself which is a feat not easy to pull at the local company picnic using an employee who has not been trained as a professional model. Glenn Martens and stylist Ursini Gysi show a gift for the natural and unexpected here.

And you're so pretty...

And you’re so pretty…

Here is another example, this time of two employees lounging on the couch in some of the menswear from last year’s collections (we recognize it from the previous runways). But as you can see (you will see this in runway backstage pictures as well) what makes this styling so great is that here is another vivid example that it is the clothes who carry the man and not vice versa.

Are you serious? Napoleon, or Empress Josephine and not Tupac Shakur? Are we dressing without masks for a Venetian party like two young princes of a renaissance family? And what about this very sinister (sinister meaning left) bling hand casually straddling one’s thigh? Is that to say you always have an extra hand at hand to scratch your latest itch? Well, they say the most needless use of accessories for men – like stuffing a pipe for example – is often best to feel comfortable with a certain style, and this is a good point, because the Y/Project employees in these pictures not only look relaxed looking like de Medici princes – they look great!

And we're so pretty...

And we’re so pretty…

So yes, what Glenn Martens proves here is that great styling can make people really happy! Employees, people, men, women, friends, family. A great way to start the new Y/Project AW17 campaign. And so the press release states:

“Y/Project celebrates individuality. It’s all about individuals and moments.”

Corporations and companies, please take note.

Words by Sandro and photos from Y/Project

Birkenstock is a very old family company (AD 1774) of master cobblers from the Frankfurt region of Germany who learned their artisanal accessory-making skills from working for centuries in orthopedics but who now offer a wide range of very interesting products for men around the globe who are interested in casual urban chic. That the company’s motto is simply ‘a healthy living’ should stand for something because BDMOTP is glad to introduce here Birkenstock’s very functional and beautiful current variety of bags and sacks for men that surely would look very good in Milan, New York, Paris, London — or Shanghai for that matter.

The Handbag

Birkenstock Group

Always super useful we like to dub this a ‘City Bag’ as you can take it anywhere anytime and it comes in handy always both for business or personal affairs. Everything fits in there from laptops, notepads, and books, to writing materials and personal belongings.

The Duffel

Birkenstock Group
Of course this is better than a NorthFace duffel bag — what are you thinking, and it may even be better than a real Louis Vuitton because at LVMH you are paying for the name and not so much for German quality. Highly recommended for the tough and rough traveller who goes a bit unshaven with some boots and Stetson perchance. Travel the road in style with Birkenstock and noone will ask you where you got your bag.

The Rucksack

Birkenstock Group
But of course in Germany they would use the English and call it a backpack whereas rucksack is a German notion to begin with – but it’s basically the same; you wear it on your back, to go to school, to hike, or to go trekking. Please note that as far as functionality goes Birkenstock makes several types of backpacks, in order words the range for the models in this product category is higher than with the other assorted bags. Again, it’s functional, durable, simple – and therefore quite classy.

The Sports Bag

Birkenstock Group
Just as sturdy, but a little more space than the handbag or travel bag, this one even carries your bowling ball, so let’s call it a sports bag. Perfect to crumble up your dirty clothes after a good sports match, whether that’s going to be racketball or squash, tennis, bowling, soccer, or basketball. Good for all sports and leisure except for hockey or football or other sports where you need a lot of equipment, this beautiful Birkenstock sports bag is going to turn you into a gallant locker room hero as you will be known for your classy sports elegance.

The Travel Bag

Birkenstock Group
Birkenstock likes to call it a weekend bag which is quite to the point as this the bag you need for a quick weekend getaway with your friends for a day or so. Comfortable, spacious, and durable this is going to give you lots of joy when fellow weekend revelers are trying to either show off their latest Gucci bags, or worse, that ubiquitously boring Fred Perry monster which seems to be made for people who loves to only carry their court shoes and a polo in a mistaken effort to be super cool. No, go for the sturdy tough quality look of Birkenstock and bring away some weekend items which others do not expect.

The Man Bag

Birkenstock Group
And finally, of course, the man bag, that deliciously ambiguous item which still today has the potential to get some men talked about in ways that society at large would least have one suspect it because of the very notion of a man being entitled to have a hand bag is still considered as ‘strange’ in some parts of this world. But let’s get over that, and what better way to do it than with a sturdy and tough looking durable German-made Birkenstock with its traditions going back all the way to 1774.
Birkenstock, excellent accessories for men of today.

Words by Sandro and photos from GPS Radar by Birkenstock.

When seeing pictures of models wandering backstage (the June 23, 2017 runway show of Namacheko SS18 in Paris) like zombies about to be thrown into the limelight comes to mind the immortal grunge anthem phrase “Here we are now, entertain us!” (credit Nirvana) because the show is about to commence but the fashion purgatory that comes right before escapes most people in general, if not the fashionistas on front row – but not the camera. Models under tense pressure but in natural poses, texting, talking, waiting, and getting styled while anticipating the worst critiques, this is clearly a mighty opportunity to capture men’s fashion unawares and in its natural basic state, so that an ever style – hungry public is apt to get a more oblique and interesting look at what is possible outside the lights and glamour of the runways.

Namacheko (since 2015) are your proverbial ‘young designers’ in that they are brother (Dilan Lurr) and sister (Lezan Lurr) who came from Kurdistan but who grew up in Sweden and who are now hitting the runways in Paris with a remarkably fresh SS18 collection. Their inspiration is the juxtaposition of western sartorial arts with the songs, dreams, patterns and colors they knew from when they left the Levant. Old love songs from the sixties in Kurdistan come to mind. But because we are living in 2017 where everything is fast and furious and hardly traditional here is a reported quote by the designers when describing the SS18 collection:

“The most important aspect, is the present, the now.”

And that brings us back to the typically western style trepidations of professional performance and pressure of models you can find backstage anxiously waiting for the curtain to fall. So we do not wish to withhold from you these quality images as they can well show us the ephemeral beauty of men’s fashion still in disguise: for with the lights out, it’s less dangerous, and you may feel stupid, and contagious – of not knowing what is about to happen until when you step blindly up onto the runway.

For here we are now, entertain us…

Posted by Sandro and photos from Namacheko.

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