Milan Uomo: Ermanno Scervino

Cities |  Milan | 

The Ermanno Scervino collections always seem to be BDMOTP favorites. Perhaps its the elegance in which the designs always seem to balance out perfectly. A classic, tailored Italian brand with just enough trend to make it relevant and consistently modern. The SS 16 collection was no different, and don’t tell anyone, but Scervino, as per usual, was a clear and direct favorite, and here’s why:

The traditional suits as had an edgy touch this year: texture, texture and more texture. We loved the ruched and bunched fabric, the cuts and squares set onto the fabric and rough etchings.

Brief glints of shimmery silver threads were lined into some of the more casual looks, catching the light at just the right moment for an added gleam.

The baggy pant was officially brought back. Gone (or, at least in Ermanno’s mind) are the skinny pants, making way for a more relaxed look. Conversely, shorter, more tailored blazers and motorcycle leather jackets were more form-fitting to offset the wider pant leg. Interesting color choices and patterns were put together, like a pale pink with army green, stripes with baby blue leather or houndstooth with camoflauge…and surprisingly, it really worked.

And finally a show this season with a diverse-looking collection of models who seemed to actually indulge in an occasional plate of pasta.

The Scervino man is cool, calm and collected…isn’t that what we all hope to be?

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Post by Lori Zaino and photos from Ermanno Scervino.

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Milan Uomo: Canali

Cities |  Milan | 

Canali, the ever-so-gentlemanly Italian enigma. Many people associate the typical “Italian” man with a brand like Dolce & Gabana or Gucci, but for me, the true Italian gentleman is wearing a Canali suit. A simple look, yet complex, understated, yet makes you stop and stare (heading back to the enigma…how do they juxtapose such concepts?).

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Dapper as could be, the SS16 collection shown at Milan Uomo this season was perfect for a light, breezy spring day aboard a yacht or perhaps a tea party, even a picnic.

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Impeccable tailoring and fresh colors like a muted lime green and varying tones of oxblood (a new color, if you will, the spring oxblood tone, slightly later than the autumn oxblood) covered models head-to-toe in the form of suits, trenches, jackets and casual sportswear.

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Light cashmere tops with rolled sleeves dominated the separates looks, and many were accompanied by structured, vintage-looking mini-suitcase/briefcases, sharpening up even the more casual looks.

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A unique addition bringing the classic brand right into the modern, trendy 2015 was a type of jacket backpack. For a distracted lad who may leave his jacket or blazer in the taxi, on the subway, or on the bar stool, this jacket is strapped to your back like a backpack, but wide-open and dangling. Finally, a creative new way to never lose that spring cover-up. Keep the creatively coming, Canali, because, well, BDMOTP is on board.

I just had to snap the backpack/jacket combo! So intriguing

I just had to snap the backpack/jacket combo! So intriguing

Post by Lori Zaino and all photos except the final one from Canali.

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Milan Uomo: Vivienne Westwood

Cities |  Milan | 

The Milan Uomo SS16 Vivienne Westwood collection was, as per usual, politically motivated. The theme “Politicans R Criminals” and implicated politicians in conjunction with banks and monopolies as causing climate change and taking away human rights.

We at BDMOTP find Ms. Westwood to be an inspirational female (see previous post “A Conversation with Vivienne Westwood” and love the fact that she uses her creative talents to fight against corruption and climate change.

Now that we’ve covered the politics, let’s get to the fashion. The SS16 collection has Westwood’s signature sass, with layers and ragged edges adding a little funk to suits and casual sportswear.

Bold colors and prints welcomed in a vibrant spring. Westwood mixed prints, striped, plaids, boxes and florals for an all around trendy vibe. A few of the looks featured a kind of desert storm print, reminiscent of cargo but more modern. Baggy pants and mandals (man sandals) also appeared on the runway.

RJ Mitte, actor featured in cult class Breaking Bad closed out the show, which was a very hip touch.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos from Vivienne Westwood.

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Milan Uomo: DAKS Sana SS16

Cities |  Milan | 

The Milan Uomo DAKS SS16 collection boasted the motif Mens sana in corpore sano is a Latin phrase, loosely meaning “a sound mind in a sound body” or “a healthy mind in a healthy body”.

Thankfully, a collection of healthy, fit male models proved that indeed, the collection was appropriate for a normal man. The garments were sleek and color-coded, featuring a lot of white, grey and a stylish tan leather for added details. They were snugly fit (again, demonstrating a healthy body, perhaps?) chic and elegant. The models slicked back hair contributed to the overall sleek vibe of the collection.

The tan leather was used in various ways, such as more typical applications: a leather bag, shoes or trench coat, or a little more unique, like a leather coated collar, wide, trojan-style belt or as a very slim belt OVER a trench coat.

All in all, the collection was crisp and elegant, with a few trendy touches bringing into the modern man’s closet.

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Post by Lori Zaino and photos from Daks.

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Milan Uomo: Philipp Plein

Cities |  Milan | 

PHILIPP PLEIN MEN-¦S SS16 FASHION SHOW - ATMOSPHERE @BFANYC (6)

The SS16 Milan Uomo Philipp Plein show was yet again a spectacle of smoke and sequins, featuring rap singer Tyga throwing down beats alongside daredevil dirtbikers and car racers.

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Cars burned and crashed and fireworks exploded, and Philipp Plein never ceases to impress even the chicest of Milano’s elite.

PHILIPP PLEIN MENS SS16 FASHION SHOW

PHILIPP PLEIN MENS SS16 FASHION SHOW

Oh, and the fashion. Models strutted around the racetrack covered with broken-down cars spray painted silver and gold wearing the SS16 collection “Plein Punk.”

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The designs, as most of Plein’s are, were youthful and fun, studded and ripped. Mainly black and white with a light embellishing of red, Plein gets his point accross with very little color, just funky, punky style.

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PHILIPP PLEIN MEN-¦S SS16 FASHION SHOW @BFANYC LOOK 25

Bulky studded high-top gym shoes, leather backpacks/duffles and hats plus sunglasses accompanied the looks. Cool eagle belt buckles were also applied to the shoes for a little extra flavor.

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PHILIPP PLEIN MEN-¦S SS16 FASHION SHOW @BFANYC LOOK 4

The bags were surprisingly understated and elegant, keeping the focus on the star-studded clothing designs. As usual, jackets ruled the runway, in the form of leather bomber, blazer and even cool vests.

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PHILIPP PLEIN MEN-¦S SS16 FASHION SHOW @BFANYC LOOK 10

Plein does it again with not only a fabulous night filled with entertainment, but a sexy, sultry collection for SS16.

Post by Lori Zaino and photos from Philipp Plein.

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Milan Uomo: Orciani

Cities |  Milan | 

Have you ever had one of those moments where you just can’t find the right belt?

You are not alone. Claudio Orciani had a similar moment in 1979 and decided to make his own. Hence, a leather empire was born, and fast forward almost 36 years later, the Orcinai brand creates belts, bags, jackets and more that are sold all over the world in luxury shops.

There is something to be said about the concept of a family business. This day in age it’s extremely difficult to fathom this concept, especially in the United States. It’s impressive to hear that families are still working hard together to create special items.  I find that in Mediterranean countries like Italy and Spain, people truly understand how to appreciate beauty and pass this concept down through the generations, keeping their brand alive.

Speaking with Claudio was a lovely experience, because you can feel the passion he has for his creations and it obviously translates to the artfully crafted goods produced. Again, a type of personal and detailed energy you can really only get through a family-owned company.

Even better, the company is futuristic and has gone 100% ecologic. It’s like music to my ears, ecologic and family-owned? Perfection, I tell you.

Let’s get to the fashion. The belts are beautifully crafted with soft and supple leather using many techniques to make each belt original and rustic: braiding, laser, studs, color, brushed leather and more. The leather is specifically worked to give off a vintage feel, which can really only get better over time as you continue to work in your own belt. Leather is one of the few things (and perhaps fine wine) that get’s better as it ages!

One of the most interesting concepts was the Nobuckle belt, which is basically an adjustable piece of leather that you can size to fit you. The belt was originally inspired when there were actually no available buckles to be had, but in a modern age where people are fad dieting and going through airport security, the Nobuckle belt is very intriguing.

The brand also makes bags for both men and women as well as jackets, wallets and more. Orciani can appeal to men of all ages, shapes and sizes (literally, with the Nobuckle) and even women as well.

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Post and photos by Lori Zaino.

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Milan Uomo: Eleventy

Cities |  Milan | 

Milan Uomo: Eleventy is all about a carefree SS16. A man can just “be” when he’s wearing one of Eleventy’s relaxed and easy looks. From casual to professional to dressy, Eleventy has got you covered with their giant SS16 collection.

For a sporty dude, there are plenty of comfortable, easy looks made of cotton and linen where you won’t have to sacrifice style for comfort. Preppier guys will love their relaxed blazers and button ups, and for a more classical occasional, a sport jacket or suit would be the perfect fit. Eleventy can cover you from head-to-toe: shoes, shirts, pants, suits, sunglasses, scarves…they even made sell cologne and candles. Can’t have a best dressed man walking around smelling less than perfection!

BDMOTP favorites: breezy summer linen shirts and vests, fedora-style straw hats, and pops of red anywhere and everywhere.

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Post and photos by Lori Zaino.

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Milan Uomo: Santoni

Cities |  Milan | 

The Milan Uomo: Santoni ManSS16 collection was all about soft lines and smooth movement. No rigid looks in this menswear collection, next spring it’s all about the flow.

To evoke the overall feeling of the collection, the showing took place in a beautiful Italian palace, the Palazzo Bocconi, with the collection place among angelic pillows among plants and grass.

Being soft doesn’t mean that the shoes lose their masculinity; in fact, the embracement of a softer look almost makes the man himself seem more confident in a subtle, gentle way.

“Mandals” (man sandles) made an appearance, and you best bet they will be worn all throughout Europe and perhaps a daring American citizen will hop on the mandal bus.

BDMOTP especially loved the lateral edges of some of the shoes Santoni created this season. It reminded us of beachy waves! The softness comes out, but the masculinity is all there.

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Post by Lori Zaino and photos from Ermanno Scervino.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photos and Post by Lori Zaino.

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Milan Uomo: Bertoni

Cities |  Milan | 

The Milan Uomo Bertoni SS16 collection, B-side American Dream was inspired by, you guessed it: the American Dream! The family-owned company showcased their collection the beautiful Museo Bagatti Valsecchi in Milan, and the regal, debonair trucks fit right on among the medieval armor, ceilings of grandeur and old-fashioned Renaissance fireplaces and furniture.

Besides the the main shapes they do (and do well, in my opinion) this season, they include a north/south bag which seems to be trending for SS16 as well as a cool utility leather vest in various patterns with plenty of pockets. A skull motif embodied the gangster idea quite well actually!

The collection had the American gangster in mind: muted colors, graffiti prints and all-around luxury. A cool fly pattern print and a bandana print modernized the classic shapes.

Our wishlist includes the trunk turned desk and another which is actually a wardrobe. The square-side briefcases have an beautiful yet useful interior with plenty of pockets to store anything you might need during the work day as a man on the go!

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Post and photos by Lori Zaino.

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Milan Uomo: Guglielmo Capone

Cities |  Milan | 

The Guglielmo Capone SS16 collection was shown in the Palazzo Bovara, featured models artfully posing in a drawing room. The collection could be summed in one word as refined. The looks were perfectly tailored, dressy but not overdone. An edge of prep was was added with a stripe, and in the case of a cold spring, a wool coat as well.

I particularly enjoyed the patterns. Beside the stripe, there were a few paint splattered graffitti patterns as well as some checks and other prints to give the solid white, red, black and blue looks a little action. The looks were serious, and I could easily see a Londoner running about town in one of these fashionable Guglielmo Capone looks.

BDMOTP favorite: a white casual suit with V-neck printed sweater underneath.

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Post and photos by Lori Zaino.

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