Blood Brother at London Fashion Week Mens

Cities |  London | 

Blood Brother isn’t just a set of besties who press their thumbs together for a life-long friendship. It’s also a contemporary British clothing brand with a solid collection for SS18 which they showed at London Fashion Week Mens. Started by friend duo (we can’t confirm if they indeed are blood brothers themselves, but we’ll make sure to ask next time)  Nicholas Biela and James Waller, the brand is utilitarian and focuses on trendy outerwear.

Besides their cutting edge designs, Blood Brother is right on top of the newest ways to use print-applique as well as creating their own fabrics. What better way to ensure quality then to create it yourself?

The SS18 collection was just as urban and funky as we expected, and we get why the brand has such a cult and celebrity following. The line, entitled, “Login,” was all about straps, belts and buckles in unexpected places. Their famous screen printing was layered onto shirts and sweatshirts with sayings such as”Fly to Mars in Thirty Seconds.” The name Login was represented with screen printed tees saying”upgrade your account.” More kitschy shirts read “Vacation?” and “Save Me.”

With sayings on the top, many of the shirts were paired with oversize pants or cropped, ankle-length trousers. The Blood Brother logo was explicitly displayed across garments in cursive writing.

Brands like Blood Brother are really changing the London fashion scene. With a slow movement towards more underground, casual looks, will brands like this slowly eat away at the more Savile Row type menswear? We think there’s room for both!

Words by Lori Zaino and photos from Blood Brother.

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dunhill: The Next Chapter Beings at London Fashion Week Mens

Cities |  London | 

Dunhill’s new creative director, Mark Weston has officially taken the rains, and the collection comes as such, presenting both looks for Autumn 2017 and Spring 2018 all in one. Coming from Burberry, BDMOTP was excited to see what turn Weston would take the dunhill brand in.

After carefully checking out the collections, BDMOTP has deduced that dunhill has seemed to stay fairly true to their roots despite new direction. Crisp, dapper suits, impeccably tailored, take the reins of the collection. Perfect for that English gentleman (or wannabe) heading to work, this suits are made to fit and line the body perfectly — none of the oversize, baggy pants and tunics we’ve seen from other designers this week at London Fashion Week Mens.

For after-work and weekends, there’s some overcoats and trenches, and for fall, some down vests and coats, making comfort and warmth a key feature. But style is never given up for the sake of comfort with dunhill — both factors are equally important. Vertical stripes and mohair make solid appearances. Most of the colors fall within the basic realm, but we do see light pops of blue and pink, never straying too far, of course, from the trusty grey, beige, navy and black. The garments seem to be in style, but more importantly, we see a focus on quality materials and good fit — those values have always been important at dunhill. Accessories come in the form of soft leather briefcases and weekender bags.

dunhill calls this a revolution. We simply call it good fashion.

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Tourne de Transmission at London Fashion Week Mens

Cities |  London | 

For their SS18 collection at London Fashion Week Mens, Tourne de Transmission brought us The Lies That Bind. 

The collection primarily consisted of oversize layers. Interestingly enough, the concept was taken from Sigmund Freud’s book Propaganda and it seemed as if the line was more of a rebellion against politics and what’s going on in the world. The brand explains, “there is a layer, a veneer on life, that we are not made to see through.” Perhaps this was the literal inspiration for the many layers you’ll see within the collection, as literal seemed to be the name of the game in this line.

Another literal translation can be found in the outerwear. The designer talks about how there’s so much transparency today withing media and politics and to reflect those “lies,” the collection has many transparent materials layered over others. We see asymmetric vest lengths and very long blazers…an interesting take on future office wear. Colors stuck mainly in the black and grey range, but pops of orange brightened this up for spring. The looks were paired with all-purpose, weatherproof backpacks and various styles of sandals and gym shoes. We even spotted socks and sandals, which, is one of the original fashion faux pas. Fingers crossed that fashion concept won’t be resurfacing in SS18, or pretty much ever, but we’ll make sure you’re the first to know if it does.

Other trends for SS18 include scarves, baggy sleeves and the concept of deconstruction, which we sincerely hope, isn’t also a direct reflection on society today.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos by Isabel Infantes/PR Wire.

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The SS18 Blues at Phoebe English Man

Cities |  London | 

It seems like it’s all about natural fibers these days, and Phoebe English Man is no different. For SS18, it seems like everyone at London Fashion Week Mens was all about the natural look and feel. Phoebe English Man was right on trend with bright hues of blue among other basic colors in their capsule collection, with garments created from natural and ecologic fabric. This collection was all about wearable, comfortable items with a stylish twist. Of course, as many other brands are now doing, the collection is made entirely in the UK from start to finish.

The collection included comfortable, loose-fitting track pants and button up shirts as well as trench coats and bomber jackets. Long tunics layered over baggy pants and shorts underneath belted jackets proved that SS18 will give us yet another season of layers. External seams lined many of the garments and some even had some patchwork, blocking details.

These oversize garments are all about comfort, and while definitely being trendy, most of these looks aren’t traditionally what men will be wearing to the office anytime soon. Then again, who knows what office wear will look like in the future anyway. With more and more people using co-working spaces and working from home, perhaps jogger bottoms and tunics will soon be the new business suits. In any case, we look forward to trying on some of these intense blue garments, and let’s hope that color keeps trending for SS18. As London Fashion Mens wears on, we’ll soon find out.

Words by Lori Zaino and photos by Neil Mason from Phoebe English Man.

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The Imperial British Alexander McQueen SS17 Collection

Cities |  London | 

This is as good as it gets. London, it’s from the summer of 2016, one secretive photoshoot, with no press or people present. Only a stylist and a photographer. And thus the reason we would keep this masterpiece from you until now the pictures having become available only as of recently on PGS radar. Thus this Alexander McQueen ‘Swinging London’ collection was never presented on the runway, nor in any other form of presentation with only a select few magazines given copies. These photos are all you can see and all you can get.

McQueen: Mad, bad, and dangerous to know

McQueen: Mad, bad, and dangerous to know.

It’s Only Rock ‘n Roll, and I Like It – because this grand collection is as Imperial British as you will ever see. For the style spells the Rolling Stones, when they were still under the magic spell of sitar-hero (no, not guitar hero) Brian Jones in the late sixties, and it spells the Beatles at the time of the Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Heart Club Band when the band by 1966 had grown weary of live performance and had moved into the studio. A style which has no shame of old-empire patterns featuring hummingbirds and leopards – or sunflowers – in paisley psychedelic or in embroidered gold.

Thus what is unusual here is that we have a magic photoshoot by a photographer (Julia Hetta) and the work of a stylist (Alister Mackie), who, moving into the studio with the assignment to work on an old Empire collection for Alexander McQueen, have created this collection only for the camera – having grown weary of live performances perhaps.

Faded, jaded Persian or Kashmir carpets as a backdrop – this old glamour look-book is so very British, so brutally imperial, that we could scant imagine Alistair Crowley smoking an opium pipe while trekking on a donkey in the Himalayas, or Rudyard Kipling sipping tea in his favorite lodge down in Mumbai. Here we find the vivid stuff of pipedreams, in the crimson and carmine colors of the gardens of Shalimar, and in full decorated regalia, from post-modern steampunk jewelry, to stiff-upper-lip military braids and broaches, to embroideries fit for forgotten princelings in Kashmir who just love silly frock coats in sharp cuts because it makes them look, well, aye, so very, very British.

Babylon at its best.

For this hardcore rocky British imperial romanticism is made of the fine things and accessories which would have made Lord Byron proud, Byronic being perhaps the one apt adjective that seems to fit the Alexander McQueen SS17 collection called ‘Swinging London’ with one single word. Or as people would say of Byron – mad, bad, and dangerous to know …

Alexander McQueen will be back on the runway in the fall of 2017.

Words by Sandro and photos by Alexander McQueen via GPS Radar.

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Tommy: Tommy Hilfiger FW 17/18

Cities |  New York | 

And what better way than kick of the Fall Winter 17/18 collections for BDMOTP this season than with Tommy, Tommy Hilfiger, this oh so terribly Anglo and collegiate upper crust brand, which is so well known and so recognizable that it may very well may have come to stand for a style all on its own – other BCBG brands notwithstanding.

This year’s winter collection is called The American Alternative – which is rather funny and yet appropriate when you come to think of it because despite this of course being a good old American brand – like Ralph Lauren also – the Tommy core value and signature style is so strongly related to British prep school boy terminology that the majority of the sartorial names of these well-to-do menswear items would seem to come from a Harry Potter special dictionary equivalent for bespoke-driven frat school boys cloistered somewhere on isolated highlands in unpronounceable British private schools.

The Tommy signature, style, and colors.

The Tommy signature, style, and colors.

Here is sample of the vocabulary marvels you can test yourself with by going through the slide show below:

Neckwear

  • Striped college tie
  • Rugby scarf
  • Tartan scarf

Sweaters etc.

  • Stewart roll-neck sweater
  • Cardigans
  • Crew neck sweater

Coats and jackets (or blazers)

  • Jersey-button peat coat
  • Gray tweed coat
  • Bobby wool mix coat

Shoes

  • Rudy lace-ups
  • Tuppence loafers
  • Brogues (by Fred)

And Oxford shirts of course. Many Oxford shirts.

For this is the great American Alternative indeed when we watch this great and classic style topped off by faded denim jeans while carrying poppy hiking back-packs – in plaid Scottish squares. Some today would call it ‘cultural appropriation’ perhaps, but that is fine by us because it looks good on any young man, especially when worn a little bit casual in the American way, and decidedly NOT with a British stiff upper lip.

In fact, the Tommy press release calls the new collection – which has a 90’s theme hidden inside it noticeable especially in its color palette (winter cognac, burgundy, maritime blue, midnight blue, grape leaf, and khaki) – ‘edgy, relaxed, and effortlessly cool’ and we here at BDMOTP would like to go along with that description but adding ‘classic, casual, and a little chic’ but not also ‘rebellious’ as the press release would have it.

No, not every brand can pretend to ‘rebellious’ today except maybe Yves Saint Laurent from time to time. But definitely not Tommy. Because Tommy is fine the way it is. It’s classic quality menswear which makes you look good. And no further words are needed lest we take away from its beautiful and time-tested style.

Words by Sandro and photos from Tommy via GPS Radar.

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Gentle Monster: Gangnam Style Pretty Vacant

Cities |  Seoul | 

Gentle Monster is celebrity and collector’s eyewear from Seoul, Korea that needs no introduction for the simple reason that today you will see them all over buzz feed and social media hot zones as every paparazzi’s favorite for its thrilling vapid and vacuous colors and odd and icky shapes. Most recently spotted in abandon this weekend at the Cannes film festival on the red carpets worn mostly by women, but also by men. For this is the ultimate K-Pop Gangnam style.

According to its press release for the 2017 collections Gentle Monster is based on what they call ‘high-end experimentation’ on ‘product, space, styling, culture, and technology’. This high design product is available in 150 countries in over 500 stores globally in selected showrooms only. Uniquely styled and colored the designer theme-eyewear comes in many variations of which here below you can enjoy a small slideshow courtesy the creators.

As for the style we will aptly follow calling it K – Pop (from Korean pop culture), and as the concept it is cited to be ‘creative-disruptive’. That’s the sad thing that Justin Bieber or Kanye West try to do all the time when they are purposefully trying to get into some other celebrity’s crosshairs. Kids call it looking for attention.

But with a real pair of Gentle Monster’s that kind juvenile behavior becomes of course entirely meaningless. Because these are highly prized high design high-end accessory items. In vapid and vacuous colors. With a daft and icky shape or form. The perfect accessory to look – as the Sex Pistols once so adequately put it forty years ago – absolutely pretty vacant.

Prices for a pair range from $200 – $500. Definitely also for men.

Words by Sandro and photos from Gentle Monster.

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Both SS17: Simple & Elegant Court Shoes

Cities |  Paris | 

Everyone’s favorite classic white court shoe — but in natural rubber.

The concept, in fact, is very simple and traditional but new and creative nevertheless: Take classic court shoes, do 30 years of research in how to work and design natural rubber into different forms of liquid latex, make brand new type of elegant shoe wear on the high of the market. Thus, this innovative yet elegant French brand (www.both.com) has been around only since last year and is showing BDMOTP today their latest collection SS17. And it sticks to basics as you can see, not only as to the shape and form of the shoe wear, but also where colors are concerned. Because you can only get them in Khaki, Nude, Black, and White.

A nude natural rubber court classic.

As far as style is concerned the court shoe of course is the typical urban chic which is so very popular and ubiquitous today on the high end of the market. In fact, everybody does it. From luxury brands willing to show casual chic to sports brands promoting their latest designer styled capsule collections to designers and fashion houses themselves, everyone and everybody just LOVES to make a beautiful court shoe. And with BOTH, here for the first time, we find them in what is aptly called ‘sophisticated rubber’ – let’s do not call it liquid latex – by veritable French independent design label.

Simple yet elegant.

As a final point of importance for this new high tech sartorial marvel BDMOTP likes to note that unlike most branded court shoes, the BOTH court shoe thankfully does not show off any mark, name, stripe, or color that could identify with it either one brand or the other. No sir, this court shoe is simply made for you, to be discrete, pretty, functional, and, of course, very comfortable – regardless of the price.

And that should be what chic is all about: BOTH fits like a glove around your foot!

Discrete, chic, and khaki.

Words by Sandro and photos from Both.

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Be Fashionable and Help End Child Poverty With This Shirt

Cities |  Thrift Etiquette |  Total Package | 

Trap music lovers can now help end child poverty and stay stylish at the very same time by purchasing this shirt designed by Uniform and rap artist/fashion icon A$AP Ferg. The shirt was designed for Red Nose Day, which falls this year on May 25, 2017. You can buy this funky teeshirt for $28 and the proceeds go to support children in need.

Pickup this cool shirt and support a charity.

Pickup this cool shirt and support a charity.

If you’re wondering what Red Nose Day is, it’s a day that benefits a charity that helps kids stay safe, healthy and empowered through education and care. The charity donates to programs in every single state in America as well as communities and projects in places like Latin America, Asia and Africa.

If you want to know exactly where your shirt money is going, it may be for an American child to eat a meal. It also might give a Ugandan child access to clean drinking water or vaccinate a child in Asia. It could even help at at-risk teen or child participate in an after-school activity or help a homeless child get off the streets.

Being a gentleman isn’t just about fashion, it’s about helping the world become a better place. Plus the shirt is pretty cool, so why not kill two birds with one stone and snap one up and wear it on May 25, 2017 to show your support. Uniform also offers some other tee shirts for purchase, by the one designed by A$AP Ferg is by far the most stylish and cool.

Words by Lori Zaino and photo of shirt from Uniform.

 

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Roberto Cavalli Announces New Creative Director

Cities |  Milan | 

Several months after direct Peter Dundas left the label, Cavalli has appointed a new creative director: Paul Surridge.

Surridge isn’t new to the game, as he’s worked with Z Zegna, Acne studios, Calvin Klein, Burberry and more. When Dundas left, Cavalli was headed for a radical turn. A large company reorganization moved the headquarters from Milan to Florence and spurred 200 layoffs. The idea, as is with most fashion brands, is to turn a profit, which seems to be hard in this day’s market with shifts in shopping styles and increased millennium online-shopping.

The CEO of the company Gian Giacomo Ferraris explains that “In this environment, only iconic brands with a coherent business model and an efficient organisation can survive. I believe the Cavalli brand has what it takes to succeed. But the reality is that the company’s costs must be in line with its revenues and that is the task we now have to embark upon.”

The hire in Surridge several months after Dundas’ departure was an intentional one, according to the brand. They first wanted to have the restructuring in order before someone new came on to take the reins, ready to take a strong lead in a new direction. Of the reasons Surridge was such an idea candidate was because he has strong digital communication skills, and that’s what it takes to succeed in today’s fashion game: social media and digital skills.

You’ll be able to see Surridge’s footprint, but not for awhile. His first season will be shown in the fall, the Spring/Summer 2018 collection in Milan.

Roberto Cavalli hires a new creative director in hopes of turning profit. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Roberto Cavalli hires a new creative director in hopes of turning profit. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Words by Lori Zaino and photo as specified in caption.

 

 

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