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London Collections: Men: Duchamp

Cities | London | 19.06.2014

Oh, a life of luxury! Duchamp is a gorgeous brand that I always love to see at London Collections: Men. One of the things I always appreciate about their presentations is the effort the put into showcasing the models as wearing their designs as moving, breathing beings (after, all, humans will be wearing these clothes!). The models are typically engaged with those around them, laughing, chatting, having a cocktail, showing how people would “live” in the clothes. After all, clothes are meant to be worn and not just walked down a runway.

For those who appreciate the finer things in life, Duchamp presents a collection of glamour that can be put into three distinct categories: Elegant English Gentry, Comtemporary Riviera and Summer Evening wear. The designs mesh English, Scottish and Italian fabrics into a mix of glamour and casual.

BDMOTP favorite: Purple silk jacket part of the Evening wear collection

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: CMMN

Cities | London | 19.06.2014

90’s minimalism was the name of the game this season for CMMN SWDN. The line was fresh and bright, and extremely streamlined, using mostly grey and white. Using surface decoration like needlework and ink, the some of the pieces seem almost 3D geometric.

Because the designs are simple, the line focuses on perfect fabrics and impeccable tailoring. The jackets were a eye catching focal point in the collection, which seemed to be androgynous for any of the women out there they may want a jacket from CMMN.

BDMOTP favorite: the grey jackets–in fact, all the jackets

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Maharishi

Cities | London | 19.06.2014

The SS15 Maharishi collection was entitled the Viet-Afghan Coalition Tour. Hidden away in the trendy basement venue of the London Edition hotel, a collection of underground, hip young people awaited the start of the show. Red lights flashed and back drop resembling a colorful map appeared. My interest peaked.

The garments were a combination between young men hiking to Mount Everest and trendy, urban streetwear. Needless to say, I adored the collection. The Middle Eastern vibes combined with the durable, functional and weather proof fabrics seemed ultra hip. Models with face tattoos and turbans strutted to cool rap and house beats, and I was enthralled.

In the world of fashion, it’s hard to claim originality, but I thought the Maharishi SS15 collection was not only creative and aspiring, but trendy and wearable as well. Wearing Maharishi will make you look fashionable but not as if you are trying too hard, and of course if you are planning on backpacking, hiking or camping, you will look awesome while doing so. And of course, only made for the coolest of cool men.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Oliver Spencer

Cities | London | 18.06.2014

I never really thought much about emotional architecture, but apparently it means connecting people to their space and experience–defining an art form using light, shadows, movement, and their relation to mankind. This concept, creatively used by architect Luis Barragan, was the main inspiration for the Oliver Spencer SS15 collection.

Each garment was effectively created with this thought in mind-focusing texture, color (contrasting and matching) to design comfortable and lightweight clothing.

The models strutted to the likes of a Brazilian percussion band “Rhythms of the City” with an end-all final jaunt down the catwalk by not only the models but also three scantily Carnaval clad Brazilian samba dancers.

Now, I am not sure about the space and movement and connection, but I do know the collection was quite eye pleasing, light and airy, soft and calming, and the drum music was invigorating. Nothing like some samba drumming to make a man want to shop. Oliver Spencer tends to create garments that men simply want to wear.

BDMOTP favorite: Head-to-toe army green outfit

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: huntergather

Cities | London | 18.06.2014

Soul boy.

Funky rhythms and dance halls provided the soulful inspiration for the SS15 huntergather collection. The garments were kitschy, bright and bold, something you’d wear to while ringing in summer, dancing the night away, mojito in hand.

An interesting architectural choice featured shirts adorned with applique cut-outs within the line. David Bradshaw, the founder and director of huntergather saw the energetic Matisse cut outs show at the Tate Modern and new he wanted to reflect this in his designs for the SS15 line.

Huntergather always uses color well, and this season, paired a pinks and reds together, different shades of blue together, and really made great use of the main primary colors.

BDMOTP favorite: Red and pink yachting outfit

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Joseph Turvey

Cities | London | 18.06.2014

The Spring/Summer Joseph Turvy collection, “Tank” featured sharp and fierce looking warriors (models) covered in paint and tattoos, wearing intense designs juxtaposed with delicate butterfly koi and bold colors.

The models almost seemed like actors, emitting the intensity of the looks to the onlooking public. A fashion forward, funky, and determined man would be fit for these looks.

As always, Joseph Turvy’s looks were unique and exciting, pushing the limits of what is wearable what is over-the-top. The designs, inspired by Japenese fish are mainly silks and cottons. His collaboration with Anthony Miles ended in a bespoke shoe collection, with canvas bodies and translucent soles, which seem modern, comfortable and cool.

BDMOTP favorite: grey jacket with black sleeves

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Louis Leeman Paris

Cities | London | 17.06.2014

Anticipating the Louis Leeman Paris collections is always a delight, as the luxurious footwear brand never ceases to surprise me. The Spring/Summer S15 line was no different-I entered a room designed as a garden and greenhouse, featuring soil, plants, flowers, and of course, an ever-expanding collection of shoes. A true garden delight!

And spring-ish it was, each sole placed in soil, in spirit of their growing collection, this year having delved into other shoe styles, complete with sneakers, evening shoes, moccasins, slip ons and more. The line was inspired by Peru: Machu Picchu, the Atacama desert, the Amazon and more.

Of course, I adore the detailing they add to the shoes, like studs, chains and even fringe covering soft leather and supple suede fabrics. Our “sneak peek” at the collection didn’t even scratch the surface of what will be a collection filled with over 200 pieces!

BDMOTP favorite: The oxblood suede shoe with studs, and the plaid tweed-esque covered slip on

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Christopher Shannon

Cities | London | 17.06.2014

The Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2014-15 collection was inspired by something that everyone can look back on and smile about: spiritual paraphernalia found in a teenager’s bedroom!

Everyone knows that a teenager’s bedroom is a haven of posters, clothes, electronics (for me-mix tapes, for teens now-iPhones) and anything that reminds them of the journey of finding their way in life.

Remember those collages you used to make with your friends, whether it be photo collages hanging on your bedroom wall or magazine cutouts on your notebook? Well, Christopher Shannon took those nostalgic memories and poured it into his clothesm using graffiti, cutouts, painted collages on sweatshirts. Stripes on shirts and shorts also remind us of a youthful adolescence. Each model had their hair twisted into bunches, which was an interesting look.

This collection also featured the first ever Christopher Shannon sunglasses in collaboration with Launettes Kollektion. Right on trend, the glasses were round and bold, perfect for summer.

BDMOTP favorite: Sweatshirts with paint collages

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Lee Roach

Cities | London | 16.06.2014

Lee Roach’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection was a solid one, living up to his very own motto, “Reduction and Repetition” by keeping his line small and cohesive.

The collection, entitled “Provocative Urban Uniform” seemed to be just so: basic, well-made, simple yet interesting pieces that men could easily incorporate into their daily lifestyle. Lee Roach has it down when it comes to looks for a man on the go, no fuss no muss.

As per usual, Roach uses subtle colors and in this particular collection, chose red to be the pop of color needed to remind us that well, it is spring, after all. The appearance of the tight hood is a unique addition that adds a modern edge to the designs.

This collection is practical for the London man: classic, yet innovative.

BDMOTP favorite: Red coat, military green suit.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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London Collections: Men: Christopher Raeburn

Cities | London | 16.06.2014

When I received the invitation for the Christopher Raeburn show that was pieces of a wooden model plane to fit together, I knew things were about to get interesting.

The Spring/Summer 2015 collection was inspired by the Desert Boneyard in Arizona (the irony of this is that I’ve driven past this site many a time, as it’s just a 5 minute jaunt down the street from my family’s home). Once I realized this, the entire collection fell into place. The Boneyard houses unused or old military aircrafts smack in the middle of the hot Sonoran desert (deserts are usually the only areas big enough to house such items). This particular one has over 4,000 aircrafts (yes, you can take a tour on a large, golf cart like tram and see all of them) and is a treat for anyone obsessed with planes, metal, or the military–even fascinating to those seemingly skeptical due to its sheer size and amount of aircrafts.

Christopher Raeburn used the Boneyard as inspiration for his looks in the way of colors, fabrics and even silhouettes. You see army green, navy and black throughout the collection, as well as durable, flexible material not unlike a fabric you might see in a military uniform. Some of the garments have actually been created from original MIG fighter pilot suits, as well as appearance of rain jackets and parachute fabric within the line. The designs are loose and comfortable, yet stylish and casual. Each accessory, the rucksacks in particular, give off an aviation/ military vibe and seem to be not only a trendy complement, but possibly a useful item if planning on hiking or jumping out of plane. Pops of orange help to perk up the greens, blues and blacks.

You can get your military plane fix by planning a trip to Tucson, Arizona to see the Desert Boneyard, or, you could simply get yourself an item for Raeburn’s SS15 collection.