Calibre at Melbourne Fashion Week

Cities |  Melbourne | 

Calibre was right on trend with the longer trench coats and relaxed spring jackets. In fact, a great variety of styles and trends were shown within the collection. One gentleman could really have all his fashion needs covered with the Calibre collection, as it offered relaxed sportswear like sweaters and khakis, denim and weekend looks, crisp suits for the office and of course, some coiffed formal wear (again, we see a velvet blazer, however, paired with jeans isn’t really what BDMOTP imagined) including some silk jackets.

Let’s not forget the useful and supple leather weekender bags that any man would find perfect for a weekend getaway or even a very trendy gym bag, in a pinch.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Natalie Rap.

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MJ Bale at Melbourne Fashion Week

Cities |  Melbourne | 

Welcome to the Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Week. The menswear collections this season were on point, starting off with designer MJ Bale who played with British elegance and flair. Seemingly formal and rather dapper, classical suits and preppy plaids walked the runway. Layers gave the garments a modern touch and some funky patterned ties fashionably clashed with the plaids and gave the more basic suits a little pizzazz.  Colors didn’t really deviate from a navy blue color palette, except of course, to offer a khaki trench.

Longer trenches and coats covered the suits and despite the wintery flair, many of the models skipped socks, which must be an Australian trend as the British certainly love a nice patterned sock peeking out beneath a cuffed trouser.

The one indulgence was a velvet blazer and bowtie, giving clients an elegant, black tie option that really offers up a Thomas Pink or Chester Barrie, Savile Row-style feel. Welcome to London, er, Melbourne, gentlemen.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Natalie Rap.

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Cukovy’s Bold Budapest Style

Budapest |  Cities | 

The new Autumn/Winter collection from Cukovy is a true demonstration of the brands progressive vision. The collection is playing between the line of classical elegance and contemporary artistic expression of the designer Brigita Csukovics.

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Grey and navy blue are the basic colors the designer has chosen for the more neutral, restrained outfits. Understated but strong. In other examples, we can see a presentation of a simple look enriched by vivacious ornamental applique added to garments to give an exuberant, youthful vibe.

 

The inspiration for the collection can be found in Greek mythology, where the androgynous represent the union between masculine and feminine characteristics, as we can see in the merging of clean, classic suits and coats with burgundy, red, pink sweaters and details. High-quality leather is also present in the new collection,where in the form of gloves, fully complete the striking outfit that represents audacity and boldness.

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The collection is meant for a classical gentleman with excessive confidence and energy,looking for a slight pop and innovation in his style, without being flashy.

Posted by Teodora Musovski and photos from Cukovy.

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Jesus Lorenzo at MBFW Madrid

Cities |  Madrid | 

How do you make high-end fur look grunge and pop? Jesus Lorenzo did a creative and retrospective job updating his fur and leather looks to represent a 90’s generation for AW16/17. Whereas there were very few menswear looks, what there was not only had a cool retro vibe but also took in the trends that are stylish right now for next fall and winter.

Of course, the longer coats with the fur collars and touches here and there of fur detailing were the focal point for me. In fact, on all the runways in the world this seems to be the focal point for men in AW16/17–and what better to do so that a fur designer! Of course, the all-fur short jacket, though slightly feminine in look, was super cool, and if paired with masculine separates, would be perfect.

Jesus Lorenzo uses only the best the of best when it comes to his fabrics. Luxurious, soft Chinchilla and Fox fur and smooth, supple leather make up the menswear looks in the collection.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Exteberria at MBFW Madrid

Cities |  Madrid | 

Exteberria created a warm and cosy AW16/17. The catwalk started off with gentlemen “sleeping” among the trees…perfect timing for the Spanish release of the Revenant into theatres…would this be a similar experience? The truth is, no. Once the waltz music started playing, I had visions of travelers resting in a Bavarian forest, waiting for dawn to come, comforted in their giant fur coats. Not warriors, but simply men–men in big, furry, wonderful coats. As the first two models waltzed down the catwalk, I knew this line was all about comfort and ease.

Resting Bavarian fur-covered waltzers.

Resting Bavarian fur-covered waltzers.

The collection featured garments (well–outerwear) for both women and men, and most of the looks incorporated some sembalance of fur, in fact, loads of heavy, heavy fur, perfect for Nordic, Mongolian or Canadian winters. Leather was also used prominently in many of the designs as well as tweed. Colorblocking and even pattern blocking were also repeatedly used, and of course, right on trend with the New York, Milan and London runways for AW16/17, long, long coats with fur or shearling collars were out in full force.

Each model sported warm wool socks with leather and patched detailing to accompany the coats–not a single shoe or boat was present in the collection. The focus was definitely all on those fluffy, stylish coats. All eyes on the coats!

Any man that wants to be well-outfitted for a very chilly winter should derfinitely pìck up some Exteberria outerwear.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Francis Montesinos at MFBW Madrid

Cities |  Madrid | 

Francis Montesinos created a very special collection this season at MBFW Madrid. The line, called Fashion Reliquary, is an ode to Spanish fashion designers and the country of Spain itself. With tributes to well-known Spanish fashion designers like Elio Berhanyer (who, at 86, assisted the show and of course was seated in the front row) and the late Jesus del Pozo, the garments were all inspired and created with these fashion gods in mind.

Creating garments that pay homage to 6-7 different fashion designers isn’t an easy task, and it probably wasn’t the most uniform collections Montesinos has ever done, but it still worked. The few menswear looks consisted of mixing and matching textures. Knitted wool sweaters with velvet pants, leather shorts with cotton tops and sheer material underneath suits. Sporty sweatpants were also paired with more tailored tops, and some very interesting medieval and disco patterns were used for a little flamboyance.

You never know what Montesinos is going to bring to the table, and this season he brought quite a different outlook on fashion. A tribute collection will always be remembered, that’s for sure.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Davidelfin at MBFW Madrid

Cities |  Madrid | 

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid kicked off their AW16/17 season with eclectic Spanish fashion designer Davidelfin and his collection Mentiras (Liars). The collection is based on the concept that as we are the people who invent reality, we invent the lies…so are they reality? A bit deep for fashion, but certainly an interesting thought.

The main focal point of the collection was scarves. And not capes or blanket scarves which have frequented the AW16/17 runways in London, Milan, Paris and NY, but the oh-so-famous soccer scarves that die-hard fans rock when heading over to enjoy a partido de fútbol. An interesting choice for a fashion designer, because many might argue these types of scarves are simply not fashionable in the least, but as Delfin literally incorporated them into the looks as part of the clothing in several instances as opposed to the scarf being ¨just an accessory,¨it somehow really works. The scarves formed part of the lapels of suits, even bra crop tops for the women. And of course, they were used as accessories in several other looks.

Besides the sporty theme, the collection also had its fair share of glitter, sparkling shoes and of course, as Delfin always incorporates a backpack, and there were several of those glittering in the bright lights. The collection featured short. cropped pants and a few jumpsuits and a modern take on sweatsuits kept right along with the sporty vibe, juxtaposed with the glitter and glam of the accessories. This season, Delfin did not play with volume, and most of his looks were slim and tailored.

All in all, a different type of collection from Delfin this season…so, I suppose the only thing left to do at this point is say, ¨Play ball!¨ (As in soccer, of course, not baseball).

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Paloma Canseco.

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Asger Juel Larsen at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Cities |  Copenhagen | 

Asger Juel Larsen presented one of the more tailored collections at Copenhagen Fashion Week. However, it wasn’t by any means mainstream, as Larsen remains true to his more underground aesthetic. The collection was the perfect mix of wearable trends such as long coats with a fur collar and tailored separates, but also included some funkier styles like ripped jeans and flannel plaids layered with voluminous sweatshirts.

Really, a gentleman could do just about anything in this collection. Head to work, enjoy a dinner date, relax at Sunday brunch or even rage at rock concert. Some of the looks even had a bit of a Southwestern vibe thanks to the all-encompassing bolo ties and Texas bulging belt buckles. Not many collections include such an immense variety but still tie things together, and Larsen successfully makes this work. Quirky touches like a leopard collar bring the 70’s browns and beiges into the now.

As Laresen states on his website, his clothes are for everyone:

“You can be a countryside outlaw, a well-dressed lapdancer, a thunder and lightening magnet, or a heavy metal addict. Whatever your flavor, chances are there will be a home for you in the badass madhouse.”

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Charles Edouard Woisselin.

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Ellen Pedersen at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Cities |  Copenhagen | 

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Ellen Pedersen’s second collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week was inspired by British subculture the MODS. The young man wearing Pedersen’s designs is one longing for beautiful clothes in dark, deep undertones. The collection is definitely a big avant-garde and strays away from tradition to instead invite a bit of underground cult style.

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Long coats, tight pant, furry hoods and baseball hats give us a a Maharishi vibe, and I wouldn’t be surprised in Pedersen had a large underground following. Not to mention, her coats could keep a Scandinavian (or, a Canadian, New Yorker, etc) warm in the winter for sure.

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The line is youthful and geared towards an alternative man, not one, perhaps going into the bank on Monday morning, but instead one recording his own record, or clicking away at a vintage typewriter, sharing his memoirs with the world.

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Colorblocking and geometric stamping keep the collection moder and still relevant. Perhaps the same man who goes into the bank by day can still be a Pedersen man by night.

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At BDMOTP, we do appreciate a dapper gentleman, but also a creative one who is not afraid to try something new. And that something new is Ellen Pedersen.

Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Charles Edouard Woisselin.

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Han Kjobenhavn at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Cities |  Copenhagen | 

The collection Han Kjobenhavn presented at Copenhagen Fashion Week was unique and rugged, with models wearing scratchy burlap teddy bear masks. Han Kjobenhavn is clearly well prepared for the impending Denmark AW16/17 winter.

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His collection was furry and warm, and well, we can’t wait to melt into one of his coats, which look soft and stylish.

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The collection itself was funky and cool, street wear to the max, and we can see men all over the world sporting his designs.

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It seems that Copenhagen Fashion Week really brings out a more underground style, with designers pushing limits and trying new things. For BDMOTP, the winter coats were obviously a highlight and seemed not only trendy, but extremely functional as well.

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We love the coming styles of shearling lined coats with collars, and Hans showed several. Plus, you really can’t go wrong with a fur or fur-lined hood! So when considering how to stay warm in the coming winter, definitely check out a Han Kjobenhavn coat.

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Posted by Lori Zaino and photos by Charles Edouard Woisselin.

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